Maintenance & Restoration

hecdawg · 02-17-2018, 07:35 AM

As of a few weeks ago, I am the owner of a 1981 Scamp (claimed VIN 00474) that has had some modifications. After paying way too much for it, I am committed to getting it in the best shape possible for the next year of full-time living.

With that said...

(1) I am looking at replacing the axle to lift the trailer and add brakes. The frame is bolted to the axle. I've read this thread http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...xle-60627.html to try and educate myself. Can anyone suggest the part that I need for the job? Which axle to buy? [My local shop wants $125/hr to research this!!!] The choice of axle may be related to (3) below.

(2) After deconstructing a front area bench modification, I discovered a toilet! The brand is "the Traveler". I think I'll leave it as is if it works. What's the best way to test if all is water tight? I can see the dump connection under the trailer, but it looks like there may have been leaks at the the connection point between cassette and throne.

(3) I've read these threads to try and educate myself. http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...oor-28272.html and http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...amp-46350.html. I can't find a shop to do the fix suggested in the first link (building a frame), so it looks like I might have to try something myself. One shop said that it looked like the crack (that goes through to the inside - see photos) was repaired once before. Floor looks solid and after inspection by a welder, the frame looks to be in perfect shape - no breaks. Any updates on how to handle this type of crack so that it doesn't propagate further?

Thank you in advance for your help.

Jon in AZ · 02-17-2018, 07:57 AM

(1) Find a different shop. There is nothing to "research." A shop that knows its business will simply measure, order, and install the axle. Shops that make, sell, and repair utility trailers- the kind used by landscapers and the like- are good bets. Worst comes to worst, make a road trip to the Scamp factory. They will do it in half a day, axle, brakes, and wiring, and their prices are very reasonable. However, they will install a stock axle, so you get the standard ride height (likely an inch or two more than what you have now due to settling over time). They might be able to take care of #3 while you're there, and maybe a few other little updates, too.

(2) You may be able to find operating instructions for the particular model online. I'm not clear what type of toilet this is- "cassette" usually means you remove the waste tank to dump it, but you mention a dump connection under the trailer. If it goes through the floor, I would want to make sure the hole is properly sealed, particularly the edges of the cut. Definitely inspect for any signs of rot around base of the unit. How about a picture of the front area?

(3) You will need to peel back the Ensolite and repair the crack from inside, then touch it up from the outside. This is the go-to thread for getting started on fiberglass work: You Can Repair Fiberglass

k0wtz · 02-17-2018, 08:58 AM

jon do you think the toilet was a stock product? the drain out the bottom was a bit strange that would have to be outletted to the side I would think.

interesting but doable

bob

blueruby · 02-17-2018, 10:10 AM

I have Traveler stove and ice box in my 1973 Minit trailer. Online has various sites about the subject.

Bruce

hecdawg · 02-17-2018, 10:48 AM

Thank you all for your suggestions. I may end up driving to Backus.

Here are some photos.

The before pic shows a bunch of my stuff piled on what was a front bed. There was a red IKEA storage cabinet shimmed into place with over 50 shims!!!! I figured I could make more efficient use of the space.

Once the cabinet and white beadboard was removed, I found all wood covered surfaces in what appeared to be the dinette configuration. As you can see, the Traveler is under one of the seats. I've got to figure out a better solution to the access cover on both sides so that I can make use of the toilet and the storage. I really like having the seat up front for morning coffee and banjo playing. It really opens the space up.

A friend and I trimmed the former bed's plywood top to fit the current seats and built new cabinet doors. We removed the fridge too. I plan on just having a small, 12 V cooler.

After getting the axle and cracks fixed, I've got to install a 12V system pretty much from scratch.

And I didn't want a project trailer....

k0wtz · 02-17-2018, 11:19 AM

hec we leave our bed setup all the time on the other end we have a futon where your toilet is.

I have been thinking about working a portapottie in where you have yours. I am still curious about the drain under the trailer for it?

how was that operated I am thinking the drain pipe should have came out under the trailer some way

you have a cute layout now!!!

bob

Mike_L · 02-17-2018, 01:02 PM

If a toilet looks like it is leaking, it likely is. Put a few drops of food color in some clean water and pour it in to check. Plumbing is simple and cheap to fix if it can be accessed. My first trailer had a sink and toilet but no holding tank so I either used a sanitary hookup or an external holding tank.
Any axle shop worth using won't have to research what axle to use or how to install it. I would go elsewhere.

stevebaz · 02-17-2018, 05:52 PM

Since your trailer is heavly modifyed your cracking around the door frame may have been caused by lack of roof support. We cant see the support from your current pictures. But from the factory there was a floor to roof closet next to the door opening. On the other side there was a top and bottom cabinet with steel support between the 2 helping to keep the sides of the trailer supported.

hecdawg · 02-18-2018, 11:27 AM

Bob - I will take some photos of the toilet connections next time I work on it. I couldn't seem to find the exact model online, but it looks like it uses water from the freshwater tank to flush. Wasteful. Will have to follow the plumbing (in and out) and let you know. Wondering if I can use the greywater from the sink to flush the toilet.

Steve makes a good point. Is there any way to know what the original configuration was based on the VIN number? I'm not sure what the 1981 bath setup would've looked like and don't see any evidence of anything attached to the roof in that area. I'd rather fix the root of the problem ( and install necessary supports) than repeatedly deal with the symptoms, so it would help to know.

Bruce, can you post the link you refer to?

Jon - agreed on (1). Thanks for the fiberglass repair link. Best place to buy ensolite?

k0wtz · 02-21-2018, 09:56 AM

I have finally bought a portapottie don't use it for nr 2 but it has a canister at the bottom with a fresh water flush at the top.

you must have a black tank somewhere in your camper if that toilet is hooked up to water.

I am going to redo it and put it on the front part of the camper somewhow build it in.

be interested to find out what you have

bob

Jon in AZ · 02-21-2018, 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hecdawg

...Jon - agreed on (1). Thanks for the fiberglass repair link. Best place to buy ensolite?

Ensolite was a trademarked product, no longer made, and there is no identical replacement as far as I know. Closed cell foam without the textured vinyl surface is readily available. I believe there are also sources of foam with a vinyl surface, but it won't match the texture of Ensolite. I believe Escape uses something of the kind to line their trailers, much smoother than Ensolite. I'm not sure about a supplier. This has come up before- a "site search/google" (bottom of the search menu) on something like "replace ensolite" might turn up an old post with a link to a source.

Some people have removed pieces from hidden spaces inside cabinets to patch visible areas and replaced it with plain closed cell foam or Reflectix.

How much you need to replace and where it is located will determine the best course of action.

BTW- Could be wrong, but I don't think there was a front bath configuration on the 13'ers in 1981. The floor-to-ceiling closet Steve means is the one just to the rear of the door. It is critical for proper support of the shell near the door, so important that when Scamp sells an empty shell for DIY customization, that's the one piece they include. If you do decide to take it to the factory, Scamp will be able to advise you whether any modifications have compromised the shell.

Alex Adams · 02-21-2018, 10:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

Ensolite is no longer made, and there is no identical replacement as far as I know. Closed cell foam without the textured vinyl surface is readily available. I believe there are also sources of foam with a vinyl surface, but it won't match the texture of Ensolite. Not sure about a source- I believe Escape uses something of the kind to line their trailers, much smoother than Ensolite.

Some people have removed pieces from hidden spaces inside cabinets to patch visible areas and replaced it with plain closed cell foam or Reflectix.

How much you need to replace and where it is located will determine the best course of action.

Actually it is still being made and is available but, as you said, without the vinyl facing:

https://www.foammart.com/p-456-ensolite.aspx
https://www.scs-interiors.com/ensoli...-material.html
https://www.professionalplastics.com...ITEPVC-NBRFAOM

hecdawg · 02-25-2018, 06:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by k0wtz

you must have a black tank somewhere in your camper if that toilet is hooked up to water.

be interested to find out what you have

bob

From what I can tell the "tank" is directly under the toilet. Still deciding whether to keep it or take it out (replace it -the entire toilet, that is). Just got the water pump working yesterday and hope to test that part of it soon. Want to try the food coloring test first. Will post pics and layout soon.

What portojohn did you buy?

hecdawg · 02-25-2018, 07:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

BTW- Could be wrong, but I don't think there was a front bath configuration on the 13'ers in 1981. The floor-to-ceiling closet Steve means is the one just to the rear of the door. It is critical for proper support of the shell near the door, so important that when Scamp sells an empty shell for DIY customization, that's the one piece they include. If you do decide to take it to the factory, Scamp will be able to advise you whether any modifications have compromised the shell.

Ah, yes. That closet is there. From the rivet pattern that was patched over, I don't think there was originally any front bath. From reports and best I can tell by looking, the trailer was modified (supports added in places), as well as the interior. Thanks for the info. Will post some photos of the underside and inside.