Axle measurements for old Scamp?

[Bill Nolen]

Does anyone know where I can find the length (width?) meausrements for the axle of a 1978 13-foot Scamp?

i'm trying to determine what a new axle would cost me, should I need one.

One ad I found shows a much heavier rated Dexter axle for less than $100.00. I might be able to afford a axle in that price range.

Trailer Parts.com Dexter #T35500-CW: Torsion Axle -- Beam Only -- 3,500 lb. Capacity -- 86" Hub Face -- 67-1/2" Outside to Outside of Brackets -- 10° Up -- Inboard

Any information will be greatly appreciated,

Bill

[Donna D.]

Hummm, I hooked up my trailer and towed it to the place that was going to order my new Dexter axle for me. They took the measurements. Sorry I can't be more help.

BTW: if you have a 13' trailer, you don't need or want a 3500# axle. It will be too stiff. If the axle doesn't flex under tow, it may as well be dead.

My Scamp exceeded 2200# and that was the next step up, that's why I bought a 3500# axle. Others will chime in.

[sokhapkin]

3500# is the best fit for 16' Scamps. 13' Scamp needs 2000# axle.

[Bill Nolen]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

Hummm, I hooked up my trailer and towed it to the place that was going to order my new Dexter axle for me. They took the measurements. Sorry I can't be more help.

BTW: if you have a 13' trailer, you don't need or want a 3500# axle. It will be too stiff. If the axle doesn't flex under tow, it may as well be dead.

My Scamp exceeded 2200# and that was the next step up, that's why I bought a 3500# axle. Others will chime in.

Originally Posted by sokhapkin

3500# is the best fit for 16' Scamps. 13' Scamp needs 2000# axle.

Thanks Donna D. and Sergey. I was only using that ad as an example of a $100 axle. Maybe a 2000 lb axle would be less?

Since I'm not able to do much working on my Scamp until my knee (Tendenitis) gets better, I'm just trying to plan ahead with questions. I thought if I knew the correct measurements for the axle, I could do some research.

Bill

[Jack L]

That is an incredibly low price for that axle. The web site shows only one in stock so I'll guess it's a customer return or cancellation. Too bad it will not work on your trailer. A torsion axle is usually several hundred dollars or more plus installation. Take a look at Eastern Marine's web site. It will give you some idea about prices and sizes etc. I'm not saying buy from them. There are many places that sell these. It's just that the Eastern Marine web site is easy to use. Figure out what you want then shop around. I have purchased from Eastern Marine and been happy with the service but the freight was expensive.

[redbarron55]

If your axle still has the tag on it and if it is the original AL-KO then call AL-KO and they can check the build number and build you just like the original and give you the measurements exactly.
I called and got mine, but I have modified my frame and I am having Flexiride make one to fit that I can adjust the level with he trailing arms. I got the 3000 lb version and I am having it built to 3000 lb spring rating to keep if from being too harsh. The original AL-KO was rated 2500 lbs by AL-KO.

[bobkatr1]

I just ordered a new axle for my 1976 13' Scamp. Your old axle, if original, is a leading arm axle. I ordered a Dexter Torflex 2200# trailing arm axle. The hub face to hub face is 63" & the outside of frame to outside of frame is 48" and the angle I decided on is 0 degrees. Trailing arm axles are how the axles are designed, reversing them can be done but the Dexter folks don't recommend since they are designed to be trailing vs. leading arm axles. To replace the old leading arm axle with a new trailing arm axle, you need to position the axle location forward under the dance floor in order for the axle to align with the wheel wells. Your old axle may also be welded to the frame vs. bolted. I chose to separate the frame from the trailer mainly because I was concerned about cutting and welding so close to the plywood floor and fiberglass. Separating the frame and shell is not as bad as it sounds, it took me about 4-6 hours to remove cabinets and attempt to remove the few screws still holding the shell to the frame, ended up pulling the screws through the plywood. It was then just a matter of lifting the shell enough to pull the frame out. This is also a great time to see what condition your frame is in, lot of folks find old repairs, I just had lots of surface rust.

I did talk to Scamp, they will replace the axle for $500 if you bring it the their shop. My guess is that they replace the leading arm with a reversed trailing arm in the same location as the old axle. My new Dexter cost $445. And I will know that everything else is in good condition.


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[bobkatr1]

There are some great discussions on axles under the Towing, Hitches, Axles section.

[Bill Nolen]

Originally Posted by Jack L

That is an incredibly low price for that axle. The web site shows only one in stock so I'll guess it's a customer return or cancellation. Too bad it will not work on your trailer. A torsion axle is usually several hundred dollars or more plus installation. Take a look at Eastern Marine's web site. It will give you some idea about prices and sizes etc. I'm not saying buy from them. There are many places that sell these. It's just that the Eastern Marine web site is easy to use. Figure out what you want then shop around. I have purchased from Eastern Marine and been happy with the service but the freight was expensive.

Jack, that is a great site! And, as you wrote,that $99 price is very low!

Thank you for the information.

Bill

[Bill Nolen]

Originally Posted by redbarron55

If your axle still has the tag on it and if it is the original AL-KO then call AL-KO and they can check the build number and build you just like the original and give you the measurements exactly.
I called and got mine, but I have modified my frame and I am having Flexiride make one to fit that I can adjust the level with he trailing arms. I got the 3000 lb version and I am having it built to 3000 lb spring rating to keep if from being too harsh. The original AL-KO was rated 2500 lbs by AL-KO.

Thanks JD. As soon as I can, I'll jsck up the Scamp, and try to find the axle tag. Where might I most likely find the axle tag?

The Al-Ko web site shows that Al-Ko has a factory/office only 30 some miles from Oklahoma City! Wouldn't that be nice if I could get a axle....really cheap....from them!

Bill

[Bill Nolen]

Originally Posted by bobkatr1

I just ordered a new axle for my 1976 13' Scamp. Your old axle, if original, is a leading arm axle. I ordered a Dexter Torflex 2200# trailing arm axle. The hub face to hub face is 63" & the outside of frame to outside of frame is 48" and the angle I decided on is 0 degrees. Trailing arm axles are how the axles are designed, reversing them can be done but the Dexter folks don't recommend since they are designed to be trailing vs. leading arm axles. To replace the old leading arm axle with a new trailing arm axle, you need to position the axle location forward under the dance floor in order for the axle to align with the wheel wells. Your old axle may also be welded to the frame vs. bolted. I chose to separate the frame from the trailer mainly because I was concerned about cutting and welding so close to the plywood floor and fiberglass. Separating the frame and shell is not as bad as it sounds, it took me about 4-6 hours to remove cabinets and attempt to remove the few screws still holding the shell to the frame, ended up pulling the screws through the plywood. It was then just a matter of lifting the shell enough to pull the frame out. This is also a great time to see what condition your frame is in, lot of folks find old repairs, I just had lots of surface rust.

I did talk to Scamp, they will replace the axle for $500 if you bring it the their shop. My guess is that they replace the leading arm with a reversed trailing arm in the same location as the old axle. My new Dexter cost $445. And I will know that everything else is in good condition.


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Bob, thank you very much for the measurements! The thought of me removing the shell on my scamp would keep me up all night! That would be the kiss of death for my trailer if I tried to do that!

Who did you order your new axle from, and did the $445 cost include frieght cost? Are you going to install the axle?

Do you know if a person choise to disregard Dexter's advice, and reverse the new trailing arm axle, could the now leading arm axle fit the existing bolt bracket without any modifications to the frame or brackets? Otherwise...just bolt into place?

Sorry for so many questions! Well, sorta sorry!

Again, thank you for the information!

Bill

[Donna D.]

Since you're in Oklahoma, you may want to contact Redneck Trailer Supplies in Chickasha (405-224-2195). The install Dexter axles, will measure for you too!

[bobkatr1]

The axle was order from a local Dexter dealer and I will pick up in their Portand, OR store, so no shipping. Your old axle is very likely welded on vs. bolted on and will need to be cut off either with a welding torch or grinder. That means you will need to have the new axle mount welded on then the axle bolts to the mount. You will need to talk to the axle supplier to get their recommendation on reversing the trailing axle to a leading axle. I have a friend who will cut the old axle mount off and weld the new one on. I am also going to have him weld angle tabs for bolting the shell to the frame vs. the 12-15 screws Scamp used, of those only 6 or so were not rusted through and not functioning.

With Redneck not far away I would suggest going to them, they may also be able to replace the axle in their shop and if so, have them check your frame. If the trailer has been in areas where they use salt on the roads, you really, really need to have it checked. One frame I saw on this site had a patch together frame that was just plain scary.

Good Luck with your project. Keep reading and searching on this site, lots and lots of really good stuff that helps!

[bobkatr1]

The axle that you are looking at does not include hubs or brakes or brake flanges. What Donna said about the 3500 being too stiff means that the light 13' will bounce more and not react to bumps and will eventually shake your trailer apart.

Our old axle had next to no play left in it and when I removed the cabinets the extra bouncing was starting to wear through the wheel wells. When we towed the trailer things bounced all over the place, we thought that was normal. Now that we know better, we are happy that we decided to take the trailer down to the bones. Great peace of mind for future adventures.

[redbarron55]

My tag was in the center of the axle on the rear, with the gray water tank right behind.
My camera was able t get the picture even though I could not see it well myself.
The AL=KO axle center section is kinda triangular vs square like the dexter.
The guy I talked to was very nice and helpful.
It was a small square or rectangular tag about 3" X 4" mine was held on with a single rivet in the middle of the tag.
Since it had lived a hard life under the trailer it was hard to make out.

[Bill Nolen]

Thanks everyone!

Redneck trailers is less than 50-miles down I-44 from me!

I once bought a 1978 fiberglass sailboat that still had the original sails and trailer. I sailed that boat for two years without having to buy new sails or a new trailer!

Ha! I'm begining to believe owning a 1978 Scamp is going to be a total different experance...cost wise! However, I'm sure I'll be pleased with the results.

If only I wasn't so darn cheap....er...frugal!

Bill

[Bill Nolen]

Originally Posted by bobkatr1

I just ordered a new axle for my 1976 13' Scamp. ......Separating the frame and shell is not as bad as it sounds, it took me about 4-6 hours to remove cabinets and attempt to remove the few screws still holding the shell to the frame, ended up pulling the screws through the plywood. It was then just a matter of lifting the shell enough to pull the frame ou

Hi Bob,

Did the floor remained attached to the frame, or to the shell, when you lifted your Scamp's shell, and removed the frame?

Previously I had assumed that the shell was bolted to the frame and the floor was attached to the shell. However, i can see how it would be easier, during construction, to attach the floor to the frame, and then attach the shell to the floor.

I just want to learn all I can about how my Scamp was constructed.

Thanks,

Bill

[bobkatr1]

The frame on mine was attached to the frame with screws through the plywood floor. Most of the screws were rusted in place, I had to pull screw heads through the plywood floor. It was surprisingly easy and a bit scary that these few screws held the frame and shell together. I ground the old screws level with the frame and will bolt the shell to the frame by attaching angle iron to the frame.


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[bobkatr1]

Bill,

The floor is fiberglassed to the shell and the floor is screwed to the frame, no bolts.


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[Bill Nolen]

Originally Posted by bobkatr1

Bill,

The floor is fiberglassed to the shell and the floor is screwed to the frame, no bolts.


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Thanks Bob, now i understand the construction.

I wish that I had the skills, and was brave enough to attempt the actions you are taking! However, I have a history of loosing interest in projects, so I know it's best to only attempt very small projects!

Bill