Baja Burrito Resto Mod - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-20-2017, 01:31 AM   #41
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One drawback on that sink is not being able to use a sink cover to gain additional counter space which is one of the most common mods here on the forum. Other than that I like it, its different and i like thinking outside the box.
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Old 02-20-2017, 03:59 AM   #42
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I don't know if it is deep enough for washing dishes. And if it is, it would probably be too tall to be comfortable washing dishes. Fine for just washing hands.
I like the look, though. Just not the practicality.
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Old 02-20-2017, 07:36 AM   #43
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I like the look of the sink but feel that, being raised, it would make the prep space between it and the stove feel cramped with little room for your hands to move around when chopping etc.
Staining the counter would give some contrast which would be nice with a white sink. Nice routered edge on the counter. Are you using the same pine for the cabinet doors? I am considering doing that because it is relatively light.
Where did you get the burner? I have not seen a single one before.

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Old 02-20-2017, 07:27 PM   #44
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Thanks for the replies. I agree on everyone's comments on the functionality, but I knew that with the choices I made ( when I get closer to finishing the install, I will make a post with comments on this). I was just paranoid about how it looked. I loved it and was all proud of myself until my wife said she did not like it.

In regards to the Misses being happy, we kinda have his and hers campers. We bought her the "glamping" camper last year that she wanted (dual sinks, microwave, stove, large fridge, large pantry, king bed, walk in shower with doors, etc ..). This camper is really my project, but of course she lets me know her opinion. However, on this project, I don't have to sleep outside if I don't agree. Maybe this is really a trick/test and I'm failing? I thinking maybe the later? I'm gonna keep the sink as I have it. I've never been accused of being that smart.
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Old 02-20-2017, 07:40 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patricia D. View Post
I like the look of the sink but feel that, being raised, it would make the prep space between it and the stove feel cramped with little room for your hands to move around when chopping etc.
Staining the counter would give some contrast which would be nice with a white sink. Nice routered edge on the counter. Are you using the same pine for the cabinet doors? I am considering doing that because it is relatively light.
Where did you get the burner? I have not seen a single one before.

Thanks. Agree with the functionality comments. As you say, I think I am going to use the pine for cabinets and put a 45 routed edge on the cabinet. I will likely go with a khaki color, super gloss finish. Thought the doors were to small to justify raised panels? Have not made up my mind yet.

As far as the burner. I wanted more counter space and did not want a double burner (we will cook outside most of the time). I could not find an RV burner that had the look & quality I wanted. I found that a lot of the grill sider burners fit the bill (size and look). However, I would not recommend the one I bought. The burner is made to come apart to clean. I'm sure some of the parts will fly off if I hit a big bump while towing. I'm going to have to figure out a solution for when I tow.
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Old 02-21-2017, 03:00 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cory Wells View Post
In regards to the Misses being happy, we kinda have his and hers campers. We bought her the "glamping" camper last year that she wanted (dual sinks, microwave, stove, large fridge, large pantry, king bed, walk in shower with doors, etc ..). This camper is really my project, but of course she lets me know her opinion. However, on this project, I don't have to sleep outside if I don't agree. Maybe this is really a trick/test and I'm failing? I thinking maybe the later? I'm gonna keep the sink as I have it. I've never been accused of being that smart.
Cory I'm taking from this that you have two TTs....cool. I've got a 19' sticky I use doing the off road thing with the guys. The few changes I've made on it were my decisions.............the SD, well that's another story .
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Old 02-21-2017, 12:01 PM   #47
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Burro Cross Section Diagram (more like a crayon drawing really)

I needed to take a break from work today, so during lunch I sketched up this diagram.

I was thinking it might help someone getting ready to do a floor repair/replacement (and maybe other mods?). I hard a hard time finding what I needed when I first got started. Hope someone can use it.

Let me know if you see anything wrong or something that needs to be added. I can edit and repost as needed.
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Old 02-21-2017, 12:50 PM   #48
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WONDERFUL illustration!!!!
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Old 02-25-2017, 07:23 PM   #49
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Seat Deck Lids & Possible Stain Choices

Finished cutting out new seat deck lids today. I used 3/4" Stain Grade glued edge board. I have never used this before. It looks good, but it is not as strong as I thought. I had to reinforce with some 1"x6" boards on the bottom of some. One trick I did to get a better fit was to cut the boards to the actual size of the hole, but I then routed the bottom edge so it would lay flush. This helps keep them in position and they don't move around as much. If you don't do this, you have to cut the boards a little small so that they don't lay on the radius of the fiberglass. I am going to strip the varnish off the original table, sand and try to get it to match the other boards (that I am going to stain).

Also made a cutting board for the sink from left over wood. I will put 1" rubber feet on bottom. This will help hold the correct position on the sink and as rests when on the counter top. It also fits pretty nicely between the sink and the stove or behind the sink. This should work out pretty good. I'm also going to make a cutting board to go over the stove eye also.

I think I have narrowed my stain choices down to Black and Carbon Gray. I'm thinking about black for the kitchen counter and grey elsewhere (for cabinet doors and shelves I am going to add). So basically I thinking about going with a gray and black color scheme. See the test board by the sink.

Comments or suggestions are welcomed.
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Old 03-05-2017, 07:50 PM   #50
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Fridge Install

Just finished with the fridge rough-in. I used two eye bolts and a ratchet strap to secure it. This seems to hold it in place really tightly.

I stained the kitchen counter black, and it was to much. In the process of sanding off the stain, the distressed counter started showing through. My wife liked it so I think I have decided to keep it. I still need to apply a few coats of poly.

I added an LED light above the kitchen sink and above the pantry. I needed better light to work by. The wiring is not permanent yet, but for now I can see to work a little better.

I was also able to paint the seat boards on the couch.
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Old 03-26-2017, 06:00 PM   #51
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Idea for an Awning

I found a Kelty tarp made for car camping, but I decided to use it the opposite way it was intended for (the fiberglass pole is supposed to go to the car rack). I have mounted 3 eyebolts to the camper to connect the tarp with biners (the picture shows command strips as I used them to locate where the eye bolts were going to go). This should be pretty easy to set up. I like the way it looks and it should provide pretty good coverage. I will run a stick-on gutter below the tarp to catch run off water that will go under the tarp.

Found a fishing cleaning table at Bass pro for $50. I will try to install a rail on the camper to hold this then install some adjustable legs. However, it maybe awhile before I get to that mod. However, it should make for a nice outside kitchen table as is.

Pulled all the windows out. Getting the inside ready to paint. I am filling up the gazillion holes that have been drilled into the wall over the years.

My lovely wife was a big help this weekend.
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Old 04-06-2017, 06:55 PM   #52
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Air Conditioner Rough In

Got my air conditioner roughed in. I went with a portable unit. Don't like the extra hole in the side of the camper but I did not want a window or roof top unit. Kinda ran out of options.
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Old 04-11-2017, 06:26 AM   #53
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Window replacement quotes

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Originally Posted by Scoboatn View Post
I would like to rebuild the existing windows myself, but I'm not sure how hard it will be to find the parts and do the job good enough so there are no leaks. As a backup, I got a quote on ordering some new windows... $1,900. That is pretty high, . . .

Boat Windows, Rv Windows | Motionwindows.Com
Those are pretty good prices. I got a quote from http://www.Pellandent.com for the side and rear sliding windows for $600, $600 and $900. I'm now considering rebuilding them myself. The panes and soft parts need replacement, but the metal frames are all good. The panes are plexiglass! Two have broken corners.
Does anyone know where to get lexan(polycarbonate) panes cut?
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Old 04-11-2017, 06:30 AM   #54
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Windows on Ebay

Ebay also has a lot of replacement windows, but the Burro seems to have non-standard sizes.
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Old 04-11-2017, 08:11 PM   #55
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Window Replacement Follow-Up

You can buy plexi from Lowes and cut yourself with a jig saw or rotozip.

I had some free plexi from work, but decided not to use. I don't like the plexi because of the clarity, scratching, discoloration over time and crazing. I spent all this time and money, so I decided to go with glass.

For not to much more you can order tempered glass from ... https://www.onedayglass.com/. They provide a template to measure the radius on their website. I could not find anyone local who would do this for a reasonable price. The web site also gives instant quotes. You can get the glass in various tints also.

I just finished up another two windows. The glass I ordered from them fit good. The gaskets I used are mentioned in a previous note.

Note: I did use plexi for the slider because I did not want to cut the frame to get a glass slider in. It rests behind the screen most of the time so the scratching and clarity are not as big an issue.

Good luck.
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Old 04-11-2017, 08:26 PM   #56
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Tape used on window rebuild

Not sure if I mentioned in a previous post, but here is the tape I used to mount the fixed windows. It worked extremely well. Right width, thickness and quality. It is super sticky.

3M VHB #5108 Double Sided Acrylic Foam Automotive Attachment Tape 0.8mm*8mm* 33M

3M VHB #5108 Double Sided Acrylic Foam Automotive Attachment Tape 0.8mm*8mm* 33M | eBay
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Old 04-13-2017, 08:53 AM   #57
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window pane material

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Originally Posted by Scoboatn View Post
You can buy plexi from Lowes and cut yourself with a jig saw or rotozip.

I had some free plexi from work, but decided not to use. I don't like the plexi because of the clarity, scratching, discoloration over time and crazing. I spent all this time and money, so I decided to go with glass.

For not to much more you can order tempered glass from ... https://www.onedayglass.com/.
I got a quick estimate by phone from motionwindows, $950 for the three sliders. Still a bit high if I can rebuild myself.
Lexan/polycarbonate about $500 (I can cut with my bandsaw)
One Day Glass: about $40 each tempered glass pane x 6 = about $240.
Looks like glass is the best option. (Safety glass was over half as much more)
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Old 04-13-2017, 08:20 PM   #58
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One Day Glass

I meant to comment that the plexi I took out was 1/8" think. I ordered glass for the two side windows. I ordered 3/16" thick. That was too thick. It was real heavy. It worked fine for the single pane glass, but I barely got the seal in the cross member of the slider to go in. For the front an back, I think I am going to order 5/32 thick.

Also, I ordered 3 1/4" radius. This worked, but I think I needed a 3" radius.

Attached are the dimensions of the glass I ordered.

Shipping is pretty high, so this will make your price go up a little. Also, if you use glass for the slider you will want a polished glass edge, and this is a good bit more. Even is spite of that, I still think glass is the way to go.
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Old 04-16-2017, 07:43 PM   #59
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Interior: Primer and Paint

Got the interior painted this weekend. I still need to buff it out. It looks better than just using a spray can, but by no means professional. The second coat of white was near impossible to see where to paint. There is a fair amount of overspray due to this and all the corners and curves. I hope most of it buffs out? However, I could live with it the way it is.

I used AIC Acrylic Enamel. It took almost 1 gal of primer and about 3/4 gal of gloss white. I put on two coats each. It costs me $218 for all the paint, hardener and thinner. I bought from the local Sherman-Williams Auto Paint Store. Id say it would cost close to $100 for paint from Wal-Mart/Lowes. This was really good paint, much better than Rustoleum from a box store. I used a Kobalt top feed air paint gun.

The $20 box fan really worked good for moving the air and making the camper workable while painting.
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Old 04-17-2017, 06:20 AM   #60
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Hey, Hey!

Good for you. Brightens it right up inside, doesn't it? FWIW, I'm using acrylic enamel in/on my U-Haul project, too. Seems like a good way to go.

Mine was the econo line of Dupont paints [Nason]..........did seem like it took several days for it to harden up enough to buff well. Inside a shop building at perhaps 65 degrees.
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