Baja Burrito Resto Mod - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 11-26-2016, 07:44 PM   #29
Name: Jeanne
Trailer: Burro
North Carolina
Posts: 48
Originally Posted by Cory Wells View Post
That's my thoughts. I'm open to suggestions, but I really don't wanna pull that dang floor back out.
I hear you. If you can figure out a way to make it work without having to reinstall, I'd do it.
My original floor was not waterproofed all of the way around and lasted over 30 years.

I never thought about cutting off that top lip. Not a bad idea.


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Old 11-27-2016, 06:03 AM   #30
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Name: Cindy
Trailer: 1988 Bigfoot Silver Cloud
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What was the rubber undercoating you sprayed on? We might be able to do that to our Bigfoot.


1988 Bigfoot Silver Cloud, "The Egg Carton"
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Old 11-27-2016, 07:58 AM   #31
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Name: Gary
Trailer: UHaul CT13
Posts: 239
Can I chime in with some suggestions?
Rubberized undercoating is available in at least a couple forms, and various brands. [1] You can buy spray cans at Lowes, along with your 2x4s... and at any place that sells automotive products & paint supplies. In the automotive trades, this works fine for touching up small areas that have been worked on.
[2] You can also buy it in thick, liquid form at the auto places--intended to be applied with what's often called an "undercoating gun" or "bedliner gun". More expensive product, but goes on thicker. Probably lasts longer. Needs more clearance underneath to do a decent job of applying, and has more drips & over-spray issues... a big sheet of plastic laid on ground or floor works well to control that, and should extend several feet out from perimeter of camper.
[3] To go "crazy" [which is my plan] you can take approach #2, but with pickup bedliner product. My favorite is epoxy-catalyzed, tough as nails, from these folks:
Products | Welcome to Liner Xtreeme A medium-sized kit will run $100 or so, and another $20 for the gun...... and, of course, you'd need an air compressor for approaches 2 & 3.
For what it's worth......
"You'd care less what people think of you if you knew how seldom they did." E Roosevelt
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Old 11-27-2016, 05:04 PM   #32
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Name: Cory
Trailer: Burro
Posts: 116

I agree with Gary that the commercial product would be better. However, I just put one coat of the Rustoleum paintable undercoat from Lowes on today. You could see the plywood grain on the first coat. I tested a spot for the second coat and it covered really well. I think it will do a good job. I have used the 3M undercoating from the Auto Stores and I think It may be a little better. It is about $10 a can instead of $7.

As for the bed liner, I would check with the manufacturer. My experience with using bed liner on anything other than metal, may eventually cause problems. It chips and cracks if there is any expansion, flex or movement. Most of the bed liners are tough, but not very flexible. Wood floors will expand/shrink based on relative humidity. Not saying it won't work but I would do a little research and/or see what the mfg has to say. If they say it will be fine, I'm sure it will work and be much better than a spray can from Lowes.
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Old 11-27-2016, 09:28 PM   #33
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Name: John
Trailer: 2015 Oliver 23, Ram Cummins
Smith Valley, Nevada
Posts: 1,224
Even though it is a real hassle to pull the floor back out to coat it, there is no doubt you'll end up with a much better job if you do. Fully coated edges, coated where it lays on the cross members, coated on top under the cabinets, etc. Water will not be an issue after that. How would you feel driving in the next rain storm with any exposed plywood down there?

You can also glue and screw on some doubler pieces underneath where the cut spans between the cross members. Add them to one piece and the other piece will land on the flange you've created for stability. Then add some screws to tie them together.

I once put a new plywood floor in my boat. Just to get me by until I decided on the final finish material, I coated it several times with acrylic floor paint on all edges and both sides. That ended being the finish and I used it for eighteen more years and it was still fine. If you don't have a finish floor material decided on, it's hard to beat floor paint. Cheap, easy to clean, easy to install, can be re-done in minutes if needed, adds no weight or thickness, waterproofs the wood, etc. Just add a rug for warmth and better appearance, if needed.
I only exaggerate enough to compensate for being taken with a grain of salt.
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Old 02-17-2017, 10:46 PM   #34
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Name: Cory
Trailer: Burro
Posts: 116
Test Window Rebuild

Iíve not seen a post where all the parts and steps to rebuild a Burro window were in one place. Not sure if there are differences between year models?? I think I got everything to work properly. Iím not sure the window will not leak, but I sure hope it does not. I ordered the parts to try and assembly a small window. I think it went OK, so I will order the parts to the rest of the windows. This took a lot longer than I thought, but I had to learn what to do. It also took me a really long time to figure out all the parts. I had to order samples and try a few different things. Hope this helps someone in the future. New windows are super pricey.

ē Disassemble window.
ē Clean metal frame parts. Either Brush/Polish the aluminum or paint. I can never get paint to stick to aluminum. The frame had a lot of dents and scratches, so it did not look good polished. I used a wire drill brush to rough the aluminum, then I finished off with steel wool.
ē Make sure the drain holes in the bottom of the frame are clean and clear.

Step 1
I could not find a seal that matched the original top seal for the sliding window. The seal track for the seal for the top window slide is only about ľĒ wide. Pelland Part H009-344-19 is a little wider than this, so it has to be trimmed. I used scissors and a razor.

Step 2
Pull the seal through the track. I used a pair of pliers to pull one end. I used a heat gun to help. The picture does not show it, but you have to trim a little seal on each end to get the bar to install in the frame.

Step 3
Re-attach the cross bar and secure with screws on each end.

Step 4
Install double sided tape to the window frame. I used 3M VHB #5108 Double Sided Acrylic Foam Automotive Attachment Tape (8mm wide).

Step 5
Install the top fixed window. I used plastic sheet (I can get scrap free from work) for the windows. I cut it using a spiral bit with the original window on top as a guide. I would prefer to use tempered glass, but all the local glass places wanted to much.

Step 6
Install the top window seal. I used Pelland Part KRV08523-03. A heat gun really helped with this.

Step 7
Install the two plastic channels for the slider window. I forgot to take a picture of this. I reused what I had, since these were hard plastic parts and still were in good shape. If you want new, this is a pretty common RV window part. Install the slider window next. Note that if you use glass, you will need to cut the frame and spread it apart. If you use a plastic window, it will bend enough to pop in.

Step 8
Attach the slider lock. Mine was originally glued to the window. I attached by drilling and tapping two screws.

Step 9
Install the outer seal for the slider window. This was really hard and took some time. I had to use the heat gun. I used Pelland Part H009-842-19. It is a little wavy in the corners, but I think it will relax out with time.

Step 10
Install the screen. Make sure the expansion clips are on one side and there is a spacer for the other side. Install a small piece of foam at the top of the screen (if you do not, there will be a gap and bugs can get in when the window is up). Install the screen with the clip side in first. Back fill the gap with the plastic spacer. You can use about anything for a spacer. This is also a common RV window part. I reused the one I had since it was hard plastic and still in good shape.

Step 11
I donít have a picture of this, but next you install the window to the door. Apply a butyl tape to the back side of the window frame. I ordered Heng's 5855 Off-White Butyl Tape 3/16" x 3/4" x 20' Roll. On the inside of the window, attach the inside metal frame to the outside window frame using screws. Tighten until some of the tape gests squished out. Trim off any excess.
Attached Thumbnails
1 Window - Before_Ink_LI.jpg   2 Window - Final Front_Ink_LI.jpg  

3 Window - Final Back_Ink_LI.jpg   Window - Step 1_Ink_LI.jpg  

Window - Step 2a_Ink_LI.jpg   Window - Step 2b_Ink_LI.jpg  

Window - Step 3_Ink_LI.jpg   Window - Step 4_Ink_LI.jpg  

Window - Step 5_Ink_LI.jpg   Window - Step 6_Ink_LI.jpg  

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Old 02-17-2017, 10:49 PM   #35
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Name: Cory
Trailer: Burro
Posts: 116
Test Window Rebuild (Remaing Step Pictures)

All the pictures for the steps would not fit on one post
Attached Thumbnails
Window - Step 7_Ink_LI.jpg   Window - Step 8_Ink_LI.jpg  

Window - Step 9_Ink_LI.jpg   Window - Step 10a_Ink_LI.jpg  

Window - Step 10b_Ink_LI.jpg   Window - Step 10c_Ink_LI.jpg  

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Old 02-17-2017, 11:00 PM   #36
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Name: Cory
Trailer: Burro
Posts: 116
More Misc Window Information

Pelland Seal Information - This is where I bought all my window seals. Not counting S&H, the seals cost be about $20.

One of the pictures below is a quote for Motion Industries for brand new windows.

Attached is also a cross section of all the seal/plastic parts used in the original window.
Attached Thumbnails
Window - Seals.jpg   Motion Windows Quote.JPG  

Window Seals All - Labeled.jpg   Sample Kit.jpg  

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Old 02-19-2017, 07:26 PM   #37
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Name: Cory
Trailer: Burro
Posts: 116
What do you think about the sink?

For the kitchen, I wanted something a little more modern looking than the standard stainless sink. I installed this today, and was all excited until my wife said she did not like it. Looking for comments. If it looks really bad, no big deal to remove this and cut a hole for a standard stainless sink. By the way, I am thinking about staining the counter top a dark coffee and finish in semi-gloss poly.

No hard feelings to anyone who says they don't like it. I hate to spend all this time on the camper restore and ruin it with an eyesore. Thanks.
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_20170219_201028791.jpg   IMG_20170219_201042077.jpg  

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Old 02-19-2017, 07:55 PM   #38
Name: Mo
Trailer: Still looking
Posts: 53
I like it. Looks like a small IKEA bathroom sink. The little hooks are practical. However, the main thing to consider is what will be washed in that sink and is it feasible for that task?

Really like the single burner as well. That's about all one needs.
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Old 02-19-2017, 08:42 PM   #39
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Name: Dave & Paula Brown
Trailer: Lil Snoozy
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It doesn't matter what others think.....Happy Wife, Happy Life.
Dave & Paula
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Old 02-19-2017, 11:17 PM   #40
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Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Posts: 7,440
Originally Posted by David B. View Post
It doesn't matter what others think.....Happy Wife, Happy Life.
Dave & Paula
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Old 02-20-2017, 01:31 AM   #41
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Name: John
Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
Deep South
Posts: 1,185
One drawback on that sink is not being able to use a sink cover to gain additional counter space which is one of the most common mods here on the forum. Other than that I like it, its different and i like thinking outside the box.
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Old 02-20-2017, 03:59 AM   #42
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Name: Jacqueline
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 37
I don't know if it is deep enough for washing dishes. And if it is, it would probably be too tall to be comfortable washing dishes. Fine for just washing hands.
I like the look, though. Just not the practicality.

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