Baja Burrito Resto Mod - Page 5 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-30-2017, 03:27 AM   #81
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Bummer Cory. Try tightening the frame a bit more to squeeze a bit more butyl out. Not sure how that's going to work with the extra caulk though but you've got nothing to loose at this point.
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Old 05-30-2017, 09:45 PM   #82
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Thanks for your posts on the eco-carpet. I couldn't get my plan together for the ceiling until I saw your post. Yet another trip to the two Home Depots in my area (one for the color carpet I wanted, the other for the adhesive spray) and it's done.

I feel your pain on the leaking windows. I took my apart and cleaned them up and used mostly all original pieces when I put them back together in last October. 82 Burro
Mother Nature has been kind enough to supply me with plenty of rain for leak testing since then.
First rain showed leaks in the front, back and passenger side windows. I pulled them all off, cleaned and re-butyl taped. On the back I used double thickness on top. All still leaked.
I used some BoatLife Life Seal on the bottom seam of the frame where it's welded together. That helped some with the side slider, not the front and back.
I tried thicker screws - no change.
I tried a creeping crack cure on outside the top edge of the frames - no change in the leaks.
What seems to have worked was using the Life Seal (clear) around the outer frame onto the fiberglass after the butyl tape install. I had to use two applications on the top of the back window.
I've only done one leak test since then and bought a Kelty tarp as a backup to take camping with me.

The fiberglass around my back window has some waves. I figure that the frame is just to rigid to seal tight and the cutout may be a little too big for the window frame. I can't see using anything but plexiglass in that window space. I'm thinking about trying the plexiglass/locking gasket style window on the front and back windows instead of the framed style.

It looks like you did a nice job of sealing the window panes to the frames. They look wonderful! I'd try some marine sealant before buying new.
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Old 06-04-2017, 06:48 AM   #83
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this looks amazing! you really took it to the next level. congrats!
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Old 06-13-2017, 03:11 PM   #84
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I had leaks after I butyl taped my Burro windows as well. I went back and did a double layer of butyl tape. I did one layer on the inside of the window frame and and one directly on the fiberglass around the opening as well. If my trailer is parked/stationary there are no leaks. I will get a leak sometimes at speed on the highway if my trailer is at an angle (small drip leak right at the corners).
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Old 09-07-2017, 10:45 PM   #85
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holy guacamole.. beautiful work sir..
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Old 10-24-2017, 11:40 AM   #86
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Name: Ashley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scoboatn View Post
I also got cabinet doors and a vent fan installed this weekend.

I used 3/4" thick wood to make a trim ring to go around the fan. I installed a Fan-Tastic fan. It is really quite and moves a lot of air.

I used 1X12" oak for the cabinet doors (from Lowes). Cut down to fits and routed the edges. No stain. Sealed with wipe on poly. The two cabinet doors are bookmatched, which I think looks really neat. I really like the way the grain turned out. Might be too much for some?
What exact model of the fan did you use? Do you have any tips/instructions on how to install it? BEAUTIFUL work, very inspiring!
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Old 10-24-2017, 04:46 PM   #87
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Tennessee
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Fan

Thanks for the kind words.

I ordered mine from e-trailer.com. Fan-Tastic Vent Roof Vent w/ 12V Fan - Clamp On - Manual Lift - 14-1/4" x 14-1/4"Item # FV801208.

If I had to do over again, I would get the one with the thermostat and reverse switch. Originally I was trying to conserve money, but that notion quickly went out the window. I don't like the way they look, but the rain shield covers (look like big snorkels) are really functional/nice.

The only real trick is running the wire to the fan. That can be a little hard, but you may just use existing wiring? I replaced all wiring. You are also likely going to have to make some sort of custom trim. The fan comes with a plastic trim ring, but you need a spacer. I used scrap pieces of wood from my cabinets.

Good luck.
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Old 10-28-2017, 09:20 PM   #88
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I love the look of the counter top, it really breaks it up a bit (especially after it was stained). How did you attach the new countertop to the fiberglass?
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Old 10-28-2017, 11:26 PM   #89
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Trailer: 1971 Trailswest Campster
Washington
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On my non-operable, aluminum framed Campster front window I had a pesky leak. It was not because of the butyl rubber installation. The problem happened in the manufacturing of the window. When metal is bent around a radius there is more metal on the inside of the curve and sometimes it won't lie flat but gaps slightly outwards. This is what happened on my fixed window and the result was it left a small gap against the glass so that rain water entered into the interior of the frame. So water then leaked into the interior in those corners.

The fix was easy enough, I just pushed plumber's putty firmly into that very small gap and that made it water tight. Be sure to warm up the putty by rolling a small ball of it around between your palms. Then just push it firmly into the small voids using something such as the edge of a popsicle stick. It won't dry out and it won't cause issues if the window glass ever gets broken and needs replacing.

Also that window was made without weep holes so I used a fibered cut-off disc in my Dremel motor and created three weep holes along the lower edge. No more leaks and I did not have to remove the window to do this fix

So look carefully at how the inside radius of the frame meets the glass on the window and just along the straight section near those corners on the window's exterior because that could be the area where your leaks are happening. Barely noticeable gaps which is why it is fairly hard to spot.
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Old 10-29-2017, 07:27 AM   #90
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Name: bob
Trailer: Was A-Liner now 13f Scamp
Missouri
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leak

I have a leak the only leak in that little kitchen Scamper puts in if it is open and it rains water leaks. keep the window closed no problem water pools in the drain I have checked it drains guess take a drill and open it up some more.

bob
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Old 10-29-2017, 11:50 AM   #91
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I put a little bit of caulk on the bottom of the counter (to help with vibration and movement), then I put a few screws through the fiberglass on the bottom up through the counter top. Be sure screws are not too long and go not come through the top. Hope this helps. Thanks for the nice comments.
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Old 10-29-2017, 11:52 AM   #92
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Thanks KC, for the info. That could possibly be it. I will try this. It maybe spring before I try. I currently have the camper under dry storage.
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Old 03-12-2018, 05:46 PM   #93
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Leaking Window

We finally got our carport installed, so I was able to uncover the Burro, move it, and start working on in again (I'm about 90%) complete. I have a lot of loose ends to complete.

I think I found the leaks. There are a bunch of really, really small holes in the fiberglass on top (sort of looks like a mini shotgun blast). I discovered them while washing it when I uncovered it to move under the new shed. I had water leaks in the cabinets above the windows. I think the water was running down and out the window frames. That is why I thought my windows were leaking.

As soon as it warms up, a few little fiberglass patches should fix it up.
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Old 03-26-2018, 11:49 AM   #94
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Originally Posted by Scoboatn View Post
Pelland Seal Information - This is where I bought all my window seals. Not counting S&H, the seals cost be about $20.

One of the pictures below is a quote for Motion Industries for brand new windows.

Attached is also a cross section of all the seal/plastic parts used in the original window.
We are in the process of doing this exact thing! But we are in need of one piece that we cannot find locally. Did you order the screen spacer and slide window track from Pelland? If so which one did you order?

Thank you so much, we are in a bind with this, but really would like to keep our original windows.

- Ashley
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Old 03-26-2018, 12:45 PM   #95
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like your cover

I sure like what you have done there nice cover

bob
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Old 03-26-2018, 01:22 PM   #96
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I reused my window track slides. There were hard plastic (not rubber) and were in good shape. However, I remember seeing several options from Pelland that I thought would work. However, I remember them being relatively expensive.


As far as the screen spacer ... Same thing. These were hard plastic and in good shape. I did not see these for sale anywhere, however, I do not think it would be that hard to make something that works. you just need a little "spring like" pressure to against the screen to keep the screen frame pressed against one side of the window track. At worst, I think some coiled heavy gauge wire would work as a spacer/spring???


Good luck. Sorry I could not help.
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Old 04-30-2018, 07:58 PM   #97
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Alternative to Trim-Lok for Molded Seam

I got aggravated trying to find the correct trim-lok for the seam. So i decided to bondo the seam, sand it down a little , and I touched it up with some can spray paint for now. I really like the way it looks much better than the trim-lok. I figured it if leaked or started cracking, I could still always add trim-lok over the seam later. I suspect it will be just fine. The camper is a little dirty, and needs washing. I also need to buff out the spray painted seam and reseal the entire camper (you can tell now where I spray painted in the picture).
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Old 04-30-2018, 08:05 PM   #98
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Door Rain Guard Hack

I could not find a door rain guard that I like. I found the trick is getting one that extends out far enough to work good, but does not hit the door when you open it. I ended up making one. I made a paper/cardboard template and traced it onto some plastic sheet. I then used a heat gun to form the sheet to the shape I wanted. I really should have used some high quality double sided tape to attach to the camper, but I was afraid it would blow off in transit. I may take this one off, fill in the screw holes and try this?

BTW... Check out the reflection in the window - my Honda Fat Cat. Another hobby. I have several that I run pretty often, and one I will do a full restore on when I get this project done.
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Old 05-01-2018, 01:36 AM   #99
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Nothing wrong with that rain guard Cory, I like it. Bet it's a one of a kind that will get a lot of good comments too .
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Old 05-03-2018, 04:32 PM   #100
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Another Way to Patch Holes (Relocate Water Inlet and Drain)

Trying to get caught up on a few things I meant to post in the past.

I wanted to clean up the side of the camper and relocate the water inlet and sink drain to the bottom of the camper. To do this, I needed to patch the old holes.

I put duct tape on the outside hole of the camper. I then cut circles out of the old fiberglass sheet that I had from where I cut out for the air conditioner (I always save left over parts). I placed the cut outs in the holes, with the duct tape holding them in place. This pretty much made the patches flush with the outside of the camper. I then used Bondo-glass on the inside of the camper. When this hardened, I used regular Bondo on the outside to fill the gap. I sanded it down and repeated. I then used some spray paint to touch up.

In an effort to clean up the outside, I also placed the fridge vent on the bottom of the camper. I will make another post on this later.
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