Baja Burrito Resto Mod - Page 5 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-13-2017, 08:53 AM   #57
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Name: Billy Sharpstick
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window pane material

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scoboatn View Post
You can buy plexi from Lowes and cut yourself with a jig saw or rotozip.

I had some free plexi from work, but decided not to use. I don't like the plexi because of the clarity, scratching, discoloration over time and crazing. I spent all this time and money, so I decided to go with glass.

For not to much more you can order tempered glass from ... https://www.onedayglass.com/.
I got a quick estimate by phone from motionwindows, $950 for the three sliders. Still a bit high if I can rebuild myself.
Lexan/polycarbonate about $500 (I can cut with my bandsaw)
One Day Glass: about $40 each tempered glass pane x 6 = about $240.
Looks like glass is the best option. (Safety glass was over half as much more)
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Old 04-13-2017, 08:20 PM   #58
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One Day Glass

I meant to comment that the plexi I took out was 1/8" think. I ordered glass for the two side windows. I ordered 3/16" thick. That was too thick. It was real heavy. It worked fine for the single pane glass, but I barely got the seal in the cross member of the slider to go in. For the front an back, I think I am going to order 5/32 thick.

Also, I ordered 3 1/4" radius. This worked, but I think I needed a 3" radius.

Attached are the dimensions of the glass I ordered.

Shipping is pretty high, so this will make your price go up a little. Also, if you use glass for the slider you will want a polished glass edge, and this is a good bit more. Even is spite of that, I still think glass is the way to go.
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Old 04-16-2017, 07:43 PM   #59
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Interior: Primer and Paint

Got the interior painted this weekend. I still need to buff it out. It looks better than just using a spray can, but by no means professional. The second coat of white was near impossible to see where to paint. There is a fair amount of overspray due to this and all the corners and curves. I hope most of it buffs out? However, I could live with it the way it is.

I used AIC Acrylic Enamel. It took almost 1 gal of primer and about 3/4 gal of gloss white. I put on two coats each. It costs me $218 for all the paint, hardener and thinner. I bought from the local Sherman-Williams Auto Paint Store. Id say it would cost close to $100 for paint from Wal-Mart/Lowes. This was really good paint, much better than Rustoleum from a box store. I used a Kobalt top feed air paint gun.

The $20 box fan really worked good for moving the air and making the camper workable while painting.
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Old 04-17-2017, 06:20 AM   #60
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Hey, Hey!

Good for you. Brightens it right up inside, doesn't it? FWIW, I'm using acrylic enamel in/on my U-Haul project, too. Seems like a good way to go.

Mine was the econo line of Dupont paints [Nason]..........did seem like it took several days for it to harden up enough to buff well. Inside a shop building at perhaps 65 degrees.
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Old 04-18-2017, 07:57 PM   #61
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Follow up on floor replacement

I have been meaning to do a follow up post about the floor replacement in case it might help someone in the future. When I started my resto, I had a hard time finding this information.

When you are cutting the floor out, I think you have three options …. 1) cut the floor and leave a 1” top and factory bottom lip (seems to be most commonly done from what I can tell). 2) cut the top lip off and leave the bottom (what I did). 3) cut the bottom lip off and leave the top (I have not seen this done). This in theory would allow you to lift the camper off the trailer with the floor still attached to the trailer??

If you leave the bottom and top lip, I think 1/2“ plywood is about as thick as you can get to work. I cut the top lip out and was able to use 5/8” plywood. I could not get 3/4 “ to work due to the lip on the built-in furniture not allowing enough clearance.

I could only get the floor to go in 5 pieces. You can do it in less pieces, but I felt like I was able to bet a better fit to the fiberglass shell by using smaller pieces. Less pieces also makes the install much harder. I thought I could get the floor in in 3 pieces, but could not. If I had known this, I would have added extra metal frame at the joints when doing my frame repairs. On the bottom side of all floor joints that did not have a metal beam, I glued and screwed 1x6 boards.

I chose exterior grade plywood. There are tons of other options, but I think this will work fine. I will say I did not want to use treated wood due to potential corrosion issues with the frame and mounting hardware. I sealed the top side with water seal (had some laying around and this was quick and easy) and coated the bottom side with paintable spray on rubberized coating (note the pictures below need an extra coat or two). I meant to coat the top and bottom with water seal, but I had a hard time getting the floor in and did not feel like pulling it back out (I got lazy). Four stainless bolts were used for each piece of floor to mount the floor to the frame cross L beams.

I used Lathe screws to attach the bottom lip to the floor from the bottom side. On the top side, I poured 2-part epoxy in the crack between shell and the floor and all the floor cracks. This sealed up the ends of the boards (prevent water wicking – the ends of the boards are usually the first to rot), made the bottom seal between the camper and the floor water proof, and bonded the floor to the camper. I filled in any remaining cracks with bondo glass. I then finished the inside off with more of the paintable rubberized coating. This makes a really nice finish (like a truck bed liner) and helps get rid of the raw fiberglass. You could paint if you wanted.

There are lots of other options/ways of doing this floor replacement. This is just what I chose to do. The two things I think worked well were cutting the top lip out (allowed a thicker floor) and pouring epoxy in the crack between the shell and the floor to make a water tight seal. Also, I think an oscillating tool worked really good for this work. Don’t know how I would have done it without one.
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Old 04-18-2017, 09:31 PM   #62
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Screwing into frame beams

How do you screw down into the frame beams? I would guess drill and use sheet metal screws or lag screws.
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Old 04-19-2017, 02:03 AM   #63
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Looking good Cory. I couldn't see in the pics, are some of the SS bolts through the frame?
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Old 04-19-2017, 07:23 AM   #64
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Advantech instead of plywood subfloor

I plan to leave in all the original fiberglass floor on mine, just to maintain the original integrity of the sealed shell. I will paint the overlap of the shell and floor with thick white roof paint to seal it. (I wonder if I should drill a few small holes to allow drainage?) I will shim up along the beams to bring the level up to the shell part. Then Advantech, 19/32 OSB, routed out where any bolts or bumps are. (Plywood was the first plan. Advantech is completely waterproof I'm not sure how many puzzle pieces it will take, maybe four, but I plan to have all joints over the frame beams. I might even sandwich a layer of underlayment under the panels. Any ideas on how to make the flooring edges look pretty around all those curves? Normal baseboards or molding is too rigid.
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Old 04-19-2017, 07:08 PM   #65
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I started with stainless carriage bolts, but had trouble getting them to tighten enough. I switched over to stainless flat head screws (all 1/4") with washers and lock nuts. I do not trust sheet metal screws. Take a look at the condition of the screws I removed in an early post. The looked good on top and bottom, but were completely eaten in two where they went through the frame.

No bolts through the frame, just the cross members. I would minimize putting holes in the frame if possible.

My thoughts on underlayment ... Don't sandwich anything above or below the floor. It can trap water (even ambient humidity) and cause rot. I think this is an inherent problem with the Burro design (floor between two layers of fiberglass). I think people have tried to use aluminum sheet on the bottom and seen problems like this.

Please post detailed pics of your floor replacement. There are lots of ways to do this job. It would be good for people to see different options.

Not sure what to do about the baseboard trim. Haven't got that far yet.
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Old 04-20-2017, 07:32 PM   #66
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Ceiling Headliner

Got the carpet up on the ceiling tonight. I made a few cuts that I was not happy with, but it's not coming back down any time soon (hopefully anyhow).

I tried to install linoleum, but it did not install well or look good. I just bought some outdoor carpet from local hardware box store.

The 3M spray I used worked real well. In particular the adjustable nozzle was precise. I was able to spray both the ceiling and carpet without having to mask anything off. This spray seemed a little thicker and sticker than normal spray adhesive. Worth the extra money in my opinion.

I started at one end and sprayed about 1-2 ft sections of ceiling at a time and worked by way from one end to the other, cutting as I went. The cuts may have looked better if I made one long cut at once, but I had to cut as I laid the carpet down to relieve some of the stress wrinkles (especially in the curved parts of the ceiling). The carpet I started with had about 3" overhang on each end.
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Old 04-29-2017, 08:08 PM   #67
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Front and Rear Window Rebuild

I made a second order of glass, but I ordered 3" radius glass this time and 5/32" thickness. Had a much better fit & assembly than the two side windows. I measured the opening of the window frame and subtracted 1/8" from the length and width (1/16" clearance all on all sides). Attached are the dimensions that worked for my window.
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Old 04-30-2017, 07:04 PM   #68
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Propane and Battery Storage

I added a tongue box to store the propane tank and the battery. Wasn't sure at first about enclosing the propane tank and storing it with the battery. However I added vents to the top and bottom of the box and added a battery box with cover. I think it will be OK. I may add propane alarm inside the box.

The box is bolted to the frame using bolt holes that have been drilled and tapped in the frame.
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Old 04-30-2017, 07:22 PM   #69
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Cabinet Doors and Vent Fan

I also got cabinet doors and a vent fan installed this weekend.

I used 3/4" thick wood to make a trim ring to go around the fan. I installed a Fan-Tastic fan. It is really quite and moves a lot of air.

I used 1X12" oak for the cabinet doors (from Lowes). Cut down to fits and routed the edges. No stain. Sealed with wipe on poly. The two cabinet doors are bookmatched, which I think looks really neat. I really like the way the grain turned out. Might be too much for some?
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Old 05-02-2017, 07:56 PM   #70
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Finished installing the 12 volt lighting

Just finished up wiring up the 12V lights. I bought 50' of wire at first. I ended up using ok 150'. I can't believe it took that much.

I had a hard time finding wiring for the 12 lights that I liked. I ended up using 14/2 low voltage outdoor wiring. It is braided wire and has an extra thick casing. I think it worked really well in this application and the cost was reasonable.

The LEDs light up the camper really well. I added a step light that has a switch independent of the awning light. I also added a switch at the door for an entry light (three switches total). All the other lights have local switches on the lights themselves.

The vent below the light switch is for the air conditioner air intake. Also I needed a way to access and clean the filter on the back of the air conditioner. A coat rack will cover the two exposed shelf screws beside the filter intake.

Will start on the 120V wiring next.
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