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Old 06-04-2018, 09:26 AM   #101
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Name: Ashley
Trailer: Burro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scoboatn View Post
Pelland Seal Information - This is where I bought all my window seals. Not counting S&H, the seals cost be about $20.

One of the pictures below is a quote for Motion Industries for brand new windows.

Attached is also a cross section of all the seal/plastic parts used in the original window.
Did you ever find the replacement for the "Slide Window Track?" Ours is broken and bent and I am searching high and low for a replacement.

I noticed it is the same part used in sliding windows on truck camper shells as well, so it has to be out there somewhere!
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Old 06-04-2018, 09:32 AM   #102
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This thread is going to be so helpful over the next couple months as I jump in to my own ‘82 Burro restoration. I’m planning on having a new frame fab’d with an additional 2’ so I can add a tongue box, replace the floor with marine grade plywood, rewire, replumb, paint, etc.
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Old 06-04-2018, 11:39 AM   #103
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I found several things on the Pellandent site that looked like they would work. However, this was the only piece that I did buy and replace. I only made two windows sliders, the rest are fixed window. I had enough good slide track left over for what I needed. It was hard plastic and in good shape. I also does not affect the seal (kinda does, but not really), so I was not worried about reusing.


Good luck, but I'd say you will find something that works.
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Old 06-04-2018, 11:44 AM   #104
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Toeknee,
Feel free to PM me if you have any detailed questions.


By the way, I was able to add a tongue box without adding length to the tongue.


Have fun with your project. Good luck.
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Old 06-10-2018, 11:58 PM   #105
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Name: Tony
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Thanks Scoboatn, I’ll be taking you up on that offer. I’m selling my teardrop & possibly my 78 Trillium to fund/focus on the Burro.

In post 61, on pg 5 you go in to details on the floor - when you say you couldn’t get 3/4” to work because of the lips on the furniture, what do you mean? Do you think 1/2” is sufficient? I’m looking at either 1/2 or 3/4” marine grade plywood that I plan on rounding over the edges/sealing them with a layer of fiberglass before undercoating the bottom (garage floor epoxy?) & then installing.

I’m still trying to figure out the frame too. I’ve been searching for any previous cad-type frame drawings I could borrow from to get accurate measurements for pricing it out & getting things started.

It’s so easy for me to get lost down the rabbit holes when I start digging for information.
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Old 06-18-2018, 09:48 AM   #106
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On all the molds for your seats/closets/cabinets, there is a bottom fiberglass lip. The height of this lip pretty much corresponds with upper lip on the outside edge of the wall mold. If you cut the bottom lip off the outer wall, you can use any thickness of floor you want. When you cut the old floor out, if you decide to keep both outer wall fiberglass lips, then 1/2" board is about all you can get to fit in between. I think this was the way if was from the factory (1/2 plywood sandwiched between two layers of fiberglass = this is what creates the two lips when you cut the floor out. If you cut out the upper lip, then you can get 5/8" to work without cutting the bottom lips off of the cabinets/seats. Checkout the crude drawing on post # 47. If think it will make since why a really think floor will not work. Hope this helps, if not, just let me know.


Regarding the frame, I'm not sure of the condition of your current frame, but if the frame is in decent shape, beefing it up with angle iron is pretty simple and pretty low cost. Just something to consider. By reading your note, it sounds like you may have a little more resources than I had.
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Old 06-18-2018, 03:52 PM   #107
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That all makes sense - I’ve been slowly removing all those rusted out screws from the furniture lips. I think I’ll try for option 1 and use the 1/2” marine grade plywood. They only have 1/2 & 3/4 - no 5/8”.

I just sold my teardrop at a little profit so I can talk myself into the frame. I just got an estimate for ~$1500-2k with spring axle conversion. Might see about a partial trade for my Trillium too - seems the guy knew a bit about the old fiberglass campers & his wife told him to ‘buy any he could find’...might have to see if I can talk to her. Either way, I think I’ll have to give up the Trillium.

I’ll start the process of jacking it up & separating the shell this week. It’s nice to work nights so I can work on this during the day and I just put up one of the Costco 10x20 carports so no weather delays.

And so it begins...
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Old 06-21-2018, 04:03 PM   #108
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I think this is called the point of no return...Click image for larger version

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Old 06-21-2018, 06:00 PM   #109
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Originally Posted by toeknee View Post
Thanks Scoboatn, I’ll be taking you up on that offer. I’m selling my teardrop & possibly my 78 Trillium to fund/focus on the Burro.

In post 61, on pg 5 you go in to details on the floor - when you say you couldn’t get 3/4” to work because of the lips on the furniture, what do you mean? Do you think 1/2” is sufficient? I’m looking at either 1/2 or 3/4” marine grade plywood that I plan on rounding over the edges/sealing them with a layer of fiberglass before undercoating the bottom (garage floor epoxy?) & then installing.

I’m still trying to figure out the frame too. I’ve been searching for any previous cad-type frame drawings I could borrow from to get accurate measurements for pricing it out & getting things started.

It’s so easy for me to get lost down the rabbit holes when I start digging for information.
You are in Washington state right? You can get fantastic quality marine plywood from Edensaw. They supply to the boat building trade and their marine plywood is far superior in quality to what you can purchase at a contractor's lumberyard. It will be metric sized, 18mm is a little less than 3/4". I have been buying their plywood for many years. They have a facility in Tacoma and in Port Townsend but they send delivery trucks all over the region.

If you don't want to buy from then you can very likely get your local lumberyard or a local cabinet shop to order in a piece of 5/8" marine plywood. If you are near Everett, WA you could also contact Midway Plywood, they specialize in plywoods so have a larger selection of choices than the standard lumberyards carry.
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Old 06-22-2018, 01:41 AM   #110
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Things are looking awesome!
I quite like the grain you got going on with the cabinet doors
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Old 06-22-2018, 05:45 AM   #111
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That all makes sense - I’ve been slowly removing all those rusted out screws from the furniture lips. I think I’ll try for option 1 and use the 1/2” marine grade plywood. They only have 1/2 & 3/4 - no 5/8”.
...
Look into Advantech: http://www.huberwood.com/advantech/p...tech-flooring\
Looks like chipboard, but is glued together with a weatherproof epoxy. Completely waterproof. It comes in 5/8. I used it to redo my Burro floor.
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Old 06-25-2018, 04:37 PM   #112
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I’ve been reading up on several options - I was leaning towards Coosa but after visiting a boat builder I think I’m going with 15 or 18 mm Hydrotek bs-1088 marine grade plywood. I looked at Coosa but it just doesn’t look rigid/solid enough-definitely not as rigid as the same thickness plywood. I think the hydrotek sealed up with epoxy should mean I’m never doing this again (on this one...).

Can I manage it all with 2 sheets or will I need a third? I have to replace all the bench storage covers & the table so I might just get three sheets and hope that will cover everything.
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Old 07-31-2018, 02:30 PM   #113
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Name: catherine
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Following cause I'll need to do this soon.... hoping someone can repair my frame instead of building a new one but the back and front are pretty rusty��
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Old 08-29-2018, 01:46 PM   #114
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If you think you have leaking windows, you may consider this ...

I did a garden hose test on my camper, and it appears I fixed the leaks. I feel so relieved. I will need a good rain test to be 100% sure, but I thought I would comment on what I found.

I was convinced the windows I rebuilt were leaking. I even took them out and resealed them again and they still leaked. Come to find out, there were numerous pits in the fiberglass shell, mostly on top. I thought they were just cosmetic pits/defects. Most were the size of pencil lead tip. I put bondo-glass on all the holes, sanded and touched up with some spray paint. I then sealed the entire camper in wax ( I will comment on this in another post).

If you are having leaks you cannot get rid of, you may want to look at this. It looked just like the window was leaking as the water was running down the inner shell and then along the window. All I saw was water at the bottom of all my window frames. I finally figured it out when I noticed a really small leak in the cabinet above the sink. I knew the new vent was sealed good, and there were no windows above it. That's when the light bulb finally went off.
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Old 08-30-2018, 07:37 PM   #115
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Burro Waxing

I've seen several posts on how to wax fiberglass campers here on the site. Not sure how it is going to work long term, but I really like the way it turned out now. It did not cost much to do, or take that long.

I just cleaned with bartenders friend and then added 6 coats of Zep wax (approx. 1/2 gal). Actually I did one coat and my wife did the rest for me while I was at work - I think she is a keeper. We just used a rag to apply.

I may strip the camper back down and clear coat or repaint later. I did not have the heart to remove/paint over the original decals. It kinda has that sweaty/retro look that is popular now. The camper has already been repainted once. I have numerous touch ups with a can of spray paint, but the wax really helped blend these patches in. It also had some really dull/flat areas where I think it was down to the original fiberglass. Again, the wax really helped this to. The finish is not perfect, but looks good from 10 ft away.
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Old 08-30-2018, 10:39 PM   #116
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I just cleaned with bartenders friend and then added 6 coats of Zep wax (approx. 1/2 gal). We just used a rag to apply.

Cory, have to ask, what type of rag are you using? I use a white microfiber cloth that I wring out to just over damp. Leaves a nice coat with no runs to worry about. 5 coats on my SD17 takes less than a quart of Zep for a great shine.
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Old 08-31-2018, 05:09 AM   #117
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Zep Wax

We used an old white cotton t-shirt. It was cut in about 1 quarter. We folded it over several times so that it made a pad about the width of your hand. That seemed to work pretty good. I'd say a micro-cloth would work better. I think a sponge would work also (it is really just floor wax). Mine would look really nice if I took an orbital buffer and buffed it out.

We probably could have gotten by with less wax, but we put it on extra thick as we were trying to address some of the leaking issues. Some wax in the bowls got dirty and was thrown out between coats also.
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Old 09-03-2018, 03:08 PM   #118
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Maiden Voyage

1982 Burro we purchased in 2012. Did not get started on the resto until Fall 2016. Meant to take in out on our 2017 Yellowstone Trip, but I had some leak issues I could not get taken care of. Finally got around to fixing the leaks and finishing up a few other things this Fall. It is about 95% complete, but 100% usable now. We took it out to Carolina Hemlocks for our first trip. Really nice to get to use it after all this time and work. Dream come true for me. Everything worked just fine.
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Old 09-03-2018, 04:47 PM   #119
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Starboard for the floor???

First of all, this is coming from Jeff, Gabrielle's less attractive but more handy better half. She put me onto this thread since the Burro she brought home last weekend is going to need a new floor. It's going to need a lot things, but the floor will be the first project i'll have to tackle. Thanks for the details here, as it will help quite a bit as I get ready to do this, probably in the evenings throughout this week.

One thing i've noticed on ours is that there is damage at all four corners where the frame meets the outer shell. Just some glass work that i'll have to tackle, but that's part of life I guess.

Anyway, to the point of my post, I was wondering if there was any reason not to use marine King Starboard (think a 4'x8' cutting board) for floor material. I can get it in multiple sizes and thicknesses, but was wondering if there was a reason NOT to use it in stead of plywood in this application. It's not really that much more expensive than marine grade plywood, but will definitely not rot. One small catch is that it's not as rigid as plywood of the same thickness. I'm thinking the cross bars are close enough that this won't be that big of an issue, and I could always add additional cross bar supports to the frame if the floor does tend to sag a bit.

One more thought, question: Once I replace the floor, i'd like to be able to easily pull the shell again in the future. from what I can tell, the only thing holding the shell to the frame is the floor, but if I screw through the floor into the frame, then put floor covering over that (tile, linoleum, etc), i'm concerned i'd have to remove the floor covering in order to pull the screws. Any thoughts on getting around this? is there enough area under the seats and cabinets to put all of the connection points there, an not in the main floor area? I'm just trying to plan ahead. I know I don't want to get into a frame reno now as it's in OK shape, but probably will sometime in the future.

Cheers,
Jeff
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Old 09-03-2018, 07:26 PM   #120
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Marine King Starboard

I've never used starboard, so I can't say much about it. I'm sure someone else in the forum has and will have some good comments for you. I like the no rot idea. The only thing that comes to mind, is that I think the stiffer the floor, the better. The factory frames are pretty weak/thin tube. Any flexing can cause metal fatigue. The floor really provides the needed stiffness.

As far as the anchor points, I think you want a fair number and evenly spaced to help prevent frame flex. I would want more than just under the seat cabinets. There is not much flooring in these. It would be pretty easy to just pull the old floor and put in a new one when you pull the shell. You could use a floating floor with built in pad? You could easily snap it out and gain access to your screws, then it could be reused when you are done?

Good luck.
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