BAL Leveling Scissor Jacks - Fiberglass RV

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Old 12-23-2006, 09:23 PM   #1
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Name: Adrian
Trailer: Lance 1985~'Casita de Campo' ~23' 4"~Dinette Slide Previously: Scamp 16 ft Side Dinette, Front Bath
New Mexico
Posts: 1,185

These are going to make my life much easier setting up our Egg, instead of having getting down and setting those little leveling/stablizing jacks under the front of the trailer to stablize its' side to side motion as well as to restrict the front to back on a single axle trailer, all I have to do is use a crank or ratchet wrench to lower or raise the BAL Leveling Scissor Jacks and I will have the front of the Scamp stablize in a snap. I welded them to the tongue where there was a heavy dute pieces of angle iron place on the tongue. I stagger them about 1/2" so the screws which make them scissor will not touch when they are in the down mode. Then painted the welds black like the tongue and jacks. Use an arch welder. I have not used the Scamp nor the jacks in the "wild" yet. If there was more room on the rear, I would put them on back there as well.

the DesertHawk
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DesertHawk- Las Cruces, NM USA
2015 Lance 1985 ~ Casita de Campo ~23' 4"
~Previously ~ 2005 16' Scamp
2009 White Ford F-150 Reg. Cab Longbed ARE Topper
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Old 12-23-2006, 10:02 PM   #2
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Trailer: 1975 13 ft Trillium
Posts: 2,536
While I REALLY like (and use) this idea, I have not welded my "honda" jacks in place.

I do not plan to weld them on because of the varied and often uneven terrain we camp in.

I carry my 4 very small/compact Honda jacks with me and raise/lower them in place with a 19.2V hammer/drill with a "bit" made up of a swivel socket of correct size for the nut on the jack welded to a short "drill bit extension".
Not welding them in place also means I can place them where I feel they will do most good!

The hammer drill I carry also for emergency car/trailer repairs and the "hammer" action also makes removing/tightening wheel lug nuts muchh easier. I also carry the matching vacuum and flourescent light to go with the set. They do come in handy at times.

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Old 12-28-2006, 04:04 AM   #3
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Trailer: Boler 13 ft
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I think this also was one of the bigest improvements I have made to my 13ft Boler.
welding the jacks to the back cut my set up time from about half an hour to about 15 minutes.
This season I plan to add 2 more jacks to the front because I am not to sure that the original (1980) tounge jack will hold up its end of the bargain so to speak.
The only thing I think I am goin to do is place the jacks alittle further under by trailer where the support will be more evened out from the back jacks to the wheels to the front jacks and just use the tounge jack to hold up the gas bottle and battery box.
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Old 12-28-2006, 11:19 AM   #4
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Name: Anne
Trailer: Escape 17 ft 2006 / 2005 Honda Pilot
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I carry my 4 very small/compact Honda jacks with me and raise/lower them in place with a [b]19.2V hammer/drill with a "bit" made up of a swivel socket of correct size for the nut on the jack welded to a short "drill bit extension".
Not to change the topic (very much) but who welded the swivel socket onto the drill bit extension? I've been looking at all the separate pieces - hoping someone was selling the whole package - will a body shop do it? regular welder from the yellow pages?? Seems like it might be hard to find someone willing to do such a small job.

I get a little tired of all the cranking on my stabilizers.
Anne H and Fay Wray, the cat | Portland, OR
en Plein Air (2016 19' Escape; 2016 Honda Pilot )
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Old 12-28-2006, 11:31 AM   #5
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Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Posts: 23,907
Anne, call Curtis at Curtis Custom Welding (503-760-6971)...he's off 131st & Powell. Works out of his home, has portable equipment if needed. He's going to change the coupler on my Scamp this Spring. Nice guy, reasonably priced.
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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Old 12-30-2006, 07:55 PM   #6
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Trailer: 1975 13 ft Trillium
Posts: 2,536
and the "parts" are readily obtained at your nearest auto parts outlet (Sshucks, Napa etc.) or the likes of Home Depot, etc.
Shouldn't be more than a coupla bux to weld it together. (I chose to weld it together so as not to LOOSE parts/pieces in the set up or tear down of camp)

It IS important however to make sure the welder gets things as perfectly aligned as he can to avoid "wobble" when raising or lowering the jacks.

NOTE: the welding process WILL cause the chrome to be eaten away so IF you are concerned about possible oxidization, you can coat the piece with a coat of rattle can paint of your choice or quality. Myself, ....I've have the device powder coated!!

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