BAL tire leveler - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-05-2009, 08:17 PM   #15
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Trailer: 1976 Trillium 13 ft
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I bought mine from Sportsmans Guide last summer when our dollar had a more favourable exchange.

I was sceptical at first, both about the weight and where to store it, but after using it for the last half of the camping season it has been wonderful, easier setup and take down. I wouldn't want to do without it now.

So far I store it in a bag, and wrap the screw in a plastic bag to keep the grease from going everywhere. I am still looking for a better storage bag.
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Old 04-05-2009, 08:26 PM   #16
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There is absolutely no movement or [b]flexing in my trailer when set up.

I could be wrong, but to me it looks like the tire lifter model being touted here doesn't seem to touch the frame at any point. How could this thing possibly [b]stabilize the trailer, since all you've done is raise the tire/wheel in the air. It doesn't appear to brace and steady the trailer's frame. Since you're still basically "sitting" on the axle suspension, I just don't see how your rig doesn't bounce around when you're in it.
If you still need some form of frame stabilizing after running your wheel up on that thing, [b]it doesn't seem to make a lot of sense to even consider using it in my opinion.
The BAL leveler is just that, a Leveling system. It is not a Stabilizing system.
The trailer was designed to have it's weight supported mostly by it's axle and tires.

I used to level up my Fiber Stream the same way you do, with your stabilizers.
I never felt it flex, but it did flex. My frame is now torqued, and the body sags to one side. The door does not close properly all of the time. It was not this way when I bought the trailer. I have had a welder strengthen my frame, but I cannot get the bend out of it. That would require a complete frame-off restoration that I have neither time nor money for!

Levelers level, and stabilizers brace against movement. You need both.
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Old 04-06-2009, 05:59 PM   #17
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Has anyone come up with a slick way to carry their BAL?
So far, I've just been setting it on the floor of the Scamp when traveling.
We carry ours in a small gym bag.Fits perfectly and the handles make for easy carrying.Of everything we have purchased for our trailer this is the best and worth every cent we paid for it.
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Old 04-06-2009, 09:18 PM   #18
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Well, gee. I have one, but I don't like it as much as the rest of you seem to.

Compared to leveling blocks, it's heavy and dirty and sometimes gets stuck in place. I have had to wrestle with it more than once.

Although I use my cordless drill to level my fiver's front jacks, my drill pooped out on the BAL.

I just can't seem to fall in love with it and have left it at home the last several trips.

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Old 04-06-2009, 09:36 PM   #19
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If you really don't like it Lyle, I'd be interested in buying a used one to try out.
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Old 04-06-2009, 09:55 PM   #20
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Frederick, I suspect that the kink in your frame was not caused by the stabilization jacks but by a combination of a heavy tail and a big bump or pothole.

The reasons I say this are

1. If it were caused by jacking up the corners of the trailer, the frame would be sway-backed (lower in the center) while you describe it as having a drooping tail on the door side. See your post http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/index.ph...rt=#entry309836

2. The Fiber Stream, like many trailers, uses the shell itself as a stiffener for the frame -- but the doorway is a weak point because the opening cannot support shear stresses. Because of the shape of the doorway (it goes all the way to the floor but not all the way to the roof) it is easier to flex the frame down at the tail than it is to flex it up.

3. The steel in the frame will not take a set unless it is bent beyond its yield point. I don't think your earlier contention the the long-term weight of the holding tanks being the cause of the bent frame is true -- I believe it is much more likely that the yield point was exceeded by a combination of weight and vertical acceleration -- in other words, a weighty tail and a very sharp jolt that probably bottomed out the springs.
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Old 04-06-2009, 10:10 PM   #21
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3. The steel in the frame will not take a set unless it is bent beyond its yield point. I don't think your earlier contention the the long-term weight of the holding tanks being the cause of the bent frame is true -- I believe it is much more likely that the yield point was exceeded by a combination of weight and vertical acceleration -- in other words, a weighty tail and a very sharp jolt that probably bottomed out the springs.

I had the trailer jacked up to straighten the frame, then I had a welder sister in a solid bar beside the bent member. When the trailer was returned to it's wheels, the new bar bent to match the frame's memory bend. I decided to live with it.
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Old 04-07-2009, 01:19 AM   #22
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Well, gee. I have one, but I don't like it as much as the rest of you seem to.

Compared to leveling blocks, it's heavy and dirty and sometimes gets stuck in place. I have had to wrestle with it more than once.

Although I use my cordless drill to level my fiver's front jacks, my drill pooped out on the BAL.

I just can't seem to fall in love with it and have left it at home the last several trips.
I agree completely with Lyle. I bought one when I had my first Casita. It's way too much work to handle and use and sometimes I couldn't even get it under the tire.

I threw it away. So you can't have it Roy.
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Old 04-07-2009, 10:59 AM   #23
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I use mine on every trip - never had a problem getting it around the tire but that may be 'cause our Trillium only has 13' tires. Our fridge is pretty finicky and being able to dial in level is important.

Saying that, they are dirty as it needs to be well greased and I still haven't found a good way to store it while travelling.
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Old 04-07-2009, 11:03 AM   #24
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I find it very easy to use (I also have smaller tires) but I often don't need it and then it does feel like a lot to carry and store when all I do is take it out and put it under the trailer when I stop. It is WAY easier for me to level it that way, though.
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Old 04-07-2009, 11:52 AM   #25
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I want one too but would rather buy used too. So if any of you who do not like theirs please PM me and i'll buy yours.

thanks

Alexandra
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Old 04-07-2009, 12:04 PM   #26
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Name: Dana
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I had the trailer jacked up to straighten the frame, then I had a welder sister in a solid bar beside the bent member. When the trailer was returned to it's wheels, the new bar bent to match the frame's memory bend. I decided to live with it.
I think what happened with the welder is that in jacking up the frame he flexed it enough to make it straight, but did not go beyond the yield point, the result being frame would return to its bent shape when the jacks were taken away. The sister bar wasn't strong enough to resist the frame's memory of the bend, so it bent to conform to the frame.

It's real hard to take out a bend like that because it's nearly impossible to subject the frame to a sufficient force against gravity and the stiffening effect of the trailer's body to go past the yield point in a calibrated manner. You want to only go far enough to take out the kink, not so much as to put in a reverse kink, and not so little as to have no significant effect.

If it makes you feel any better, Steve Lang's Fiber Stream also had a bend in the same place. Perhaps it wasn't quite as bad but it certainly was noticeable.
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Old 04-08-2009, 08:30 AM   #27
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BAL leveler storage in pizza bag

BAL in pizza bag
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Old 04-08-2009, 09:17 AM   #28
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That's an awesome idea Shane!


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BAL leveler storage in pizza bag

BAL in pizza bag
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