BAL tire leveler

[Mike Taylor]

I ordered a BAL tire leveler from Sportsmans Guide website for only 54.97 plus 10.97 shipping. Very pleased with it. It only takes a few minutes now to back into a site and get level with it one try. I used the leveling blocks before and always seemed like i had to adjust a few times to get level. This thing just clamps on each corner of tire and ratchets up to the level position. It even comes with a ratchet wrench. I checked JC Whitney and Camping World and they were almost twice as much money.
BAL leveler

[Donna D.]

Of all the items I have for my trailer, from carpet to awning, this might be the one item I appreciate the most. I NEVER have to find a perfectly level spot, nor do the trailer shuffle of pulling forward... putting down a block, backing up, pulling forward, putting on another block, to find out I need a half-thickness block! My refer is always level (so is my bed!), I'm sure the refrigerator appreciates it too!

But (isn't there always?) the BAL is relatively heavy for those watching weight closely and it doesn't work on the heavier trailers (or at least that's what the instructions say).

BTW: My Scamp has 15" tires too and it works great.

[Dave Fish]

Donna, I do not see on the Web site how much it weighs or how much it will lift. Since you are using it on a 16; I assume it will probably work OK with my 17' Casita.

Thanks

Dave

[Raya]

Camping World says 18.75 lbs; another site said 19.75 lbs (I was curious too).

Strange that BAL doesn't list a weight for them, nor do they say how heavy the trailer can be (only that it must be a "light" single-axle trailer, which is a bit subjective). I looked in their downloads section but there isn't a manual for the Leveler that I can see.

Raya

[Bill K]

BTW
I got an adapter and socket and used my cordless drill.
It raised a 10' cargo trailer without even slowing down.
( don't have my scamp yet )

Bill K

I ordered a BAL tire leveler from Sportsmans Guide website for only 54.97 plus 10.97 shipping. Very pleased with it. It only takes a few minutes now to back into a site and get level with it one try. I used the leveling blocks before and always seemed like i had to adjust a few times to get level. This thing just clamps on each corner of tire and ratchets up to the level position. It even comes with a ratchet wrench. I checked JC Whitney and Camping World and they were almost twice as much money.
BAL leveler

[paulw]

Has anyone come up with a slick way to carry their BAL?
So far, I've just been setting it on the floor of the Scamp when traveling.

[peterh]

We use the BAL Leveler on our 3200 lbs (when loaded) 5th wheel with no problems.

One other thing the BAL Leveler does that's very nice is it stops some (not all) of the trailer motion we used to notice up in the 5er's loft.

. . . it doesn't work on the heavier trailers (or at least that's what the instructions say) . . .

[Donna D.]

Has anyone come up with a slick way to carry their BAL?
So far, I've just been setting it on the floor of the Scamp when traveling.

Mine is carried in the original cardboard box in the back of the tug. The shaft mechanism is greasy so that seemed the best way to carry it. Although I have thought about buying a vinyl case..... one of those kinds for Christmas Wreaths.... I think it would be big enough and it has a long zipper opening. Guess I'll continue to use the rather worn out cardboard box until the Holiday Season rolls around and I can get a wreath carrier Unless someone posts some fantastic idea!

[Pete Dumbleton]

I prefer wooden blocks, which are lighter, cheaper and also useful as blocking when jacking up trailer or truck, but that's me -- YMMV!

[Casita Greg]

I looked at this BAL Tire Leveler before I bought 4 BAL Scissor Jacks (rated at 5,000 lbs. cap. each). Obviously, I don't need that much lift to block up a Casita, but they're really easy to run up and down, and I can use any one of them as a stand-alone jack for tire changing, etc. My cordless drill doesn't even slow down when it lifts the frame. I just put all four around the trailer under the frame members. I use a cordless drill with the socket for the jacks fitted to it to spin the jack rods. I start with the lowest corner, and work my way around to the highest point. All told from digging them out of the back of the pickup, positioning them, and completely braced and levelled out (on ANY site, however cock-eyed and uneven it may be) in about 2-3 minutes. There is absolutely no movement or flexing in my trailer when set up.
I could be wrong, but to me it looks like the tire lifter model being touted here doesn't seem to touch the frame at any point. How could this thing possibly stabilize the trailer, since all you've done is raise the tire/wheel in the air. It doesn't appear to brace and steady the trailer's frame. Since you're still basically "sitting" on the axle suspension, I just don't see how your rig doesn't bounce around when you're in it.
If you still need some form of frame stabilizing after running your wheel up on that thing, it doesn't seem to make a lot of sense to even consider using it in my opinion.

[Donna D.]

I don't know about everyone else, but I don't use just the BAL Leveler. I use that to get the trailer level, even if one tire is in a hole. Once level, I use a stabilizer system on the frame. Now the trailer is supported in six places (four places on the frame and both tires), which makes it stable and level. I've camped in someplaces if I only used the four-corner method, I'd have one tire spinning off the ground. At least with the BAL, that tire is supported and in turn supports the center/side of the trailer too.

[GeorgeR]

...........There is absolutely no movement or flexing in my trailer when set up.
I could be wrong, but to me it looks like the tire lifter model being touted here doesn't seem to touch the frame at any point. How could this thing possibly stabilize the trailer, since all you've done is raise the tire/wheel in the air. It doesn't appear to brace and steady the trailer's frame. Since you're still basically "sitting" on the axle suspension, I just don't see how your rig doesn't bounce around when you're in it.
If you still need some form of frame stabilizing after running your wheel up on that thing, it doesn't seem to make a lot of sense to even consider using it in my opinion.

Rocking could be a result of up/down motion and of, probably lesser degrees, rolling motion. BAL lifter will not stop vertical motion but it will stop rolling motion. I believe that it will have stabilization effect. Scissor jack manufacturer are selling stabilization links to stop horizontal motion.



I installed C-jacks controlled with wireless remote on my 21RB Bigfoot. Even thou each one has capacity of 5,000 lb I hesitate to use them to lift the trailer due to the risk of excessive twisting of the frame. By using suspension points BAL lifter is a safe way of lifting without stressing the frame and chassis.


George.

[shane n]

I have the BAL leveler and single wheel chock and they are a "must have" Many people on the pop-up forum use a pizza delivery bag for storage and even sold them. I also put heat shrink wrap on the turning block on the chock to make it more user friendly to turn by hand.

BAL leveler

BAL chock

[Roy in TO]

Rocking could be a result of up/down motion

Remember the old bumper sticker ...

If this trailer's rockin, don't come knockin

[brendadave]

I bought mine from Sportsmans Guide last summer when our dollar had a more favourable exchange.

I was sceptical at first, both about the weight and where to store it, but after using it for the last half of the camping season it has been wonderful, easier setup and take down. I wouldn't want to do without it now.

So far I store it in a bag, and wrap the screw in a plastic bag to keep the grease from going everywhere. I am still looking for a better storage bag.

[Frederick L. Simson]

There is absolutely no movement or [b]flexing in my trailer when set up.

I could be wrong, but to me it looks like the tire lifter model being touted here doesn't seem to touch the frame at any point. How could this thing possibly [b]stabilize the trailer, since all you've done is raise the tire/wheel in the air. It doesn't appear to brace and steady the trailer's frame. Since you're still basically "sitting" on the axle suspension, I just don't see how your rig doesn't bounce around when you're in it.
If you still need some form of frame stabilizing after running your wheel up on that thing, [b]it doesn't seem to make a lot of sense to even consider using it in my opinion.

The BAL leveler is just that, a Leveling system. It is not a Stabilizing system.
The trailer was designed to have it's weight supported mostly by it's axle and tires.

I used to level up my Fiber Stream the same way you do, with your stabilizers.
I never felt it flex, but it did flex. My frame is now torqued, and the body sags to one side. The door does not close properly all of the time. It was not this way when I bought the trailer. I have had a welder strengthen my frame, but I cannot get the bend out of it. That would require a complete frame-off restoration that I have neither time nor money for!

Levelers level, and stabilizers brace against movement. You need both.

[Pat C]

Has anyone come up with a slick way to carry their BAL?
So far, I've just been setting it on the floor of the Scamp when traveling.

We carry ours in a small gym bag.Fits perfectly and the handles make for easy carrying.Of everything we have purchased for our trailer this is the best and worth every cent we paid for it.

[Lyle Brunson]

Well, gee. I have one, but I don't like it as much as the rest of you seem to.

Compared to leveling blocks, it's heavy and dirty and sometimes gets stuck in place. I have had to wrestle with it more than once.

Although I use my cordless drill to level my fiver's front jacks, my drill pooped out on the BAL.

I just can't seem to fall in love with it and have left it at home the last several trips.

[Roy in TO]

If you really don't like it Lyle, I'd be interested in buying a used one to try out.

[Dana T]

Frederick, I suspect that the kink in your frame was not caused by the stabilization jacks but by a combination of a heavy tail and a big bump or pothole.

The reasons I say this are

1. If it were caused by jacking up the corners of the trailer, the frame would be sway-backed (lower in the center) while you describe it as having a drooping tail on the door side. See your post http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/index.ph...rt=#entry309836

2. The Fiber Stream, like many trailers, uses the shell itself as a stiffener for the frame -- but the doorway is a weak point because the opening cannot support shear stresses. Because of the shape of the doorway (it goes all the way to the floor but not all the way to the roof) it is easier to flex the frame down at the tail than it is to flex it up.

3. The steel in the frame will not take a set unless it is bent beyond its yield point. I don't think your earlier contention the the long-term weight of the holding tanks being the cause of the bent frame is true -- I believe it is much more likely that the yield point was exceeded by a combination of weight and vertical acceleration -- in other words, a weighty tail and a very sharp jolt that probably bottomed out the springs.