Battery Cycling and Life - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-26-2014, 10:56 AM   #15
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FEATURES

Fully automatic built in battery protection system
Automatic low voltage cut off - 8v
Automatic over voltage cut off - 16v12V 100AH Lithium Ion Battery
Automatic short circuit cut off - instant
Automatic internal cell balancing
High quality bolted cylindrical cell design
Built in cell safety fuse " Nano Cell Fuse Technology "
Long life 3000 - 5000 cycles
Lightweight - up to 70% lighter than lead
No voltage sag - faster cranking for motors and higher voltage for continuous consistent power.
Dry Battery - no toxic lead or acid
Zero Maintenance
No venting or gassing
Heavy duty stainless steel bolts, washers and flat washers included
99.1% efficient
Green ROHS compliant - No Lead
Use 100% of rated capacity
Does not heat up during use
Connect in series or in parallel
One battery for 12v, 24v, 36, or 48v applications
The Smart Battery SB100 12V 100AH Lithium Ion Battery is the perfect replacement from a group 31 AGM, GEL or Lead Acid Battery. The SB100 is designed as a "drop in replacement" meaning all you have to do is take out your old group 31 battery and place the SB100 in the same way.
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Old 10-26-2014, 01:03 PM   #16
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It is comforting to have extra capacity but if you don't need it, keeping things light is very cool. Perhaps a lithium battery would work for you. If you go that route Victron has devices to prevent overcharging that can be installed on the battery.
They are nice but no way are they anywhere near cost effective, yet. Battery technology is the next domino that needs to fall to really bring things together in off grid solar IMHO. Although certainly a very workable system can be put together today with off the shelf reasonably priced parts.

I handled a 20v lithium battery cordless drill at the pawn shop yesterday. It was so light, small and handy I wanted to go home and beat my old 18v drill.

To me the best thing about lithium is the supposed deep, deep cycling without significantly harming life. It would be interesting to see some real life cycle analysis vs. other comparable battery types.
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Old 10-26-2014, 01:08 PM   #17
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I read all that. No where does it say it disconnect the charging source unless it is the over voltage cut off. If the voltage remains relatively flat then I'm not convinced it won't overcharge and ruin the battery. I would not want to buy one of these unless the warranty was longer than 5 years.

I like these otherwise. I could save 143 lbs switching to one of these, and have greater capacity--if I could afford it.
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Old 10-26-2014, 01:23 PM   #18
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They have a video on their site that talks about the internal circuitry and how they are built. It says they have an internal charge controller and circuits for over charging.

These I think only pay if you are a heavy user. They'd have to last at least as long as 3 sets of AGMs to be ahead. The only other way to justify would be the AH needed exceed the weight capacity you can carry. If you want more AH than you can carry with AGMs or Lead-Acid, then the cost could be justified.
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Old 10-27-2014, 09:35 AM   #19
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Battery $$$$

[QUOTE=Ron Merritt;489205]Smart Battery makes a 12v drop in replacement battery that is Lithium Ion. The electronics to protect it are on-board the battery. A 100ah Group 31 type battery is around $1300, but they are supposedly good for 3-5000 cycles, so over the long haul may be worth the price. The good thing is it's truly drop in with no changes needed for your charger or converter.

12V RV Batteries | Deep Cycle Lithium Ion Batteries | Smart Bat

Hmmmmm... $1300 would buy about 10 conventional batteries and, @ 4 years expected life, that's 40 years worth of batteries.
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Old 10-27-2014, 11:47 AM   #20
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Lithium batteries make sense only for weight savings. At some point the crazy high costs will come down and these batteries will become widespread.

I know some catamaran owners with large banks of these. Weight is important on a live-aboard catamarran. The energy storage is dense also. However , I would worry about a fire in a boat-- all that slamming around. It would be no fun fighting a fire in a lumpy Gulf Stream crossing. It seems like a formula for fatality. Likewise travel in a camper can get bumpy.

On the other hand installing one of these in a car or truck with solar charging could eliminate the need for an alternator and increase fuel economy and range.

Having identical battery types in both TV and camper could allow more flexible charging methods and greater capacity also.

If you did need lots of capacity. They do make sense. I could fit an insane amount if storage in my camper--900 AH @ 276 lbs plus cables. I could have two in my generator compartment and one in the battery box. This is silly because I'd run out of water or propane long before energy. Not to mention the cost would be twice the value of my camper.

However it is interesting to examine all the extremes before making a decision. 900 AH would not provide enough power for Air Conditioning, however I bet some obsessed fellow in a large motorhome is trying to use massive solar array power for air conditioning.

I seriously considered getting one 92 lb 300 AH lithium about six months ago. The weight savings would allow me to carry more water. The cost stopped me, but I sometimes regret the decision. I could have carried an extra 19 gallons of water for the weight savings. I now can carry up to 32 gallons of water. My goal for boon docking is to be able to carry 60 gallons.

So, I now have two 118 lb 200 AH batteries with 200 AH useable and in an emergency could use 300 AH. They work well and offer reduced fire hazard. The cost was less than 1/3 of the largest lithium battery.

I considered getting one 31 lb 100 AH lithium. It would have been a huge weigh savings (88 lbs weight savings compared to one 200 AH AGM or 205 lbs compared to two batteries): it would have been slightly inadequate for my needs, but manageable with occasional shore power charging and cost about what I paid for the two AGM batteries I bought. It might have been fine as I suspect these lithium batteries can accept more charge in the last portion of the charge-- but not with my existing charge controller.

I also considered the carbon foam batteries and might have gotten one of these if it was in an 8D shape format. I did not want to try to stuff a pair in or have to fabricate a custom battery tray.

My goal is to make my camper more off grid full time capable--including four season comfort.

A larger inverter, a big lithium battery, and more solar panels would allow me to run more AC loads like a satellite TV w/DVR 24/7, a DC fridge, and also handle running my furnace and electric blanket more heavily. As a bonus I could also carry more water and perhaps distill water.





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Old 10-27-2014, 11:58 AM   #21
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My goal for boon docking is to be able to carry 60 gallons. My goal is to make my camper more off grid full time capable--including four season comfort.

A larger inverter, a big lithium battery, and more solar panels would allow me to run more AC loads like a satellite TV w/DVR 24/7, a DC fridge, and also handle running my furnace and electric blanket more heavily. As a bonus I could also carry more water and perhaps distill water.
With a truck mounted camper couldn't you pull a smallish trailer with the extra stuff, but only when needed? Similiarly I have wondered about a water bladder in my truck bed for extended boondocking. I wonder if there are any nice bladders with internal baffles so a sharp turn would not pitch you off the road when the water rolled over.
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Old 10-27-2014, 12:36 PM   #22
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No need to find an expensive bladder - you can get nice poly tanks at your local farm supply store that will fit in the back of a pickup. They are light too, so you can take them out when not in use.

You know, you could do the same with a battery pack - rig up something in a case to put in the back of your pickup to carry when you have those long boondocking trips. I've thought about building something into a wheeled Stanley toolbox.

My new trailer is coming with 4 - 6 volt AGMS in a slide-out tray. These will be fine for my use for a few years. Later, I can see upgrading this to lithiums and save a few hundred pounds.

There are some folks running air conditioning off an inverter in Class B motorhomes. Their battery banks are around 800 ah. You can get a few hours out of that before the autostart on a generator kicks in. To me, trying to make a system to run air conditioning is just a fools errand. Just too difficult and $ wasteful for a variety of reasons. If we all had fuel cells instead of batteries and generators, then maybe.
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Old 10-27-2014, 03:04 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timber Wolf View Post
With a truck mounted camper couldn't you pull a smallish trailer with the extra stuff, but only when needed? Similiarly I have wondered about a water bladder in my truck bed for extended boondocking. I wonder if there are any nice bladders with internal baffles so a sharp turn would not pitch you off the road when the water rolled over.
My Uncle Tom has been recommended this to me as well. I have a small trailer and I'm not really using it for anything. I was thinking about making it into a fueling trailer for refilling my excavator. 5 gallon jugs is a PITA. It would be so nice to fill it right up with a pump.

So I have been thinking about putting a diesel tank in it and a smaller gasoline tank premixed for a chain saw, plus a mount for a pair of 40 lb propane tanks. If I can repair the genset, I might need another tank for regular unleaded. Lots of fuel and being on a trailer I can store it all away from the house.

So I have considered it. It would help with heating in the winter to have extra propane. Winter camping is rather nice because most places are empty.

Still, I'd prefer to avoid pulling a trailer. I want to stay as light as possible and still be able to park in a single parking space.

In any event, having a trailer set up for hauling extra stuff, adds flexibility.

Water bladders are a great idea. I looked at those. There are a few types. Nothing I've seen with baffles. If you have a water system and a winterizing valve there is a method to use your on-board pump to refill your tank using a short length of hose, a switch and another valve. Some people put pumps right on a five gallon portable tank. I'd like to try using a bladder tank in my generator compartment and a combination of these so I could refill without breaking camp.

Amazon sells AC powered distilled water maker--these cost between $200 and $500. 580 watts for a basic model. I'd like to test one of these out. My solar panels could handle that on a sunny summer day.


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