Beat a dead horse. Awning idea.

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snaps/hood pins---- try Cabelas on line- they sell snaps for boat tops that rivet on and have a little swivel cam built in to lock the tarp/top down also any marine or awning supply place should have them. Cabelas also sells a tent that can be free standing or attached to the back end of a pick-up with straps(over a truck cap and around tailgate) it would probably suck up to an egg's doorway

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OK....sorry about how long it took but finally went over to storage and took a couple of pictures of the home made awning's brackets on the roof.

<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3e4ab114b25e4top.jpg/> <img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3e4ab134e3fcdtop2.jpg/> <img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3e4ab154635d3bttm.jpg/>

Tubing is standard 1 inch conduit about 54 inches long and plastic tarp about 51 or 52 inches wide and can be 96 or 120 inches deep.

Pretty much, what you see is what you get, obviously not finished enough for most people but meets your criteria of cheap and functional. It was done by the previous owner and so far I haven't seen fit to replace it.

See the awning extended earlier in this thread.

:sunny

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Noel, that seems like just the ticket. I'm not so afraid to try it now, or something like it. Thanks for your trouble!

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Thanks, Noel, for the pictures. Those are the clips that I was talking about. Made to hold down conduit, right? Glad to know they work!

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Orginally posted by Noel M. Lutsey
Tubing is standard 1 inch conduit about 54 inches long and plastic tarp about 51 or 52 inches wide and can be 96 or 120 inches deep.
:sunny

Noel, that is very ingenious. Not meaning to be a fuss bucket, but I have never seen conduit like that. I'm guessing you have some type of insulation around them?

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Jana

Actually the ends of the conduit and bracket have been painted, I guess for weatherproofing. The piece on the TT has rubber end caps like you have on canes and walking sticks to protect the fiberglass. Brackets are times two (one on each end) and the tarp has a fold over, making a loop, with the conduit going through it; just like a cutain rod. The pull out end of the tarp (also folded over to form a loop, with the conduit going through like a curtain rod has eye bolts wedged in with washers. The poles (which can be seen in the picture earlier in this thread) have home made spike wedged into the ends that fit into the eye bolts and hold the looped end of the nylon rope on the top and screw in tent stakes go into the ground.

WHEW !!!

If ncessary I could take more pictures but it is currently raining here in Mesa, AZ and may rain for the next several days.

Hope that helps a little :o

conduit can be bought cheaply at any home store like Home Depot or Lowes etc

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There are three types of conduit. 1) PVC, gray 2) Metal 3) Metal, spiral wound, flexible.

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Nope, that's great Noel. now just answer which conduit, and I'll know enough to do it - maybe. :)
I still so impressed. simple, but works well.

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FWIW, there use-ta-be two kinds of metal electrical conduit. Rigid (like gas pipe), and EMT (bendable thin wall tubing).

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Rigid.....metal....one inch diameter.

:thumb

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pick up conduit at home depot or any electrical supplier- use emt- also called thinwall, it weighs half what rigid does, and looks the same as the old tent poles

Joe

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:E :E I don't know how heavy this is. But, it's 56" coverage and less than $100 - at the moment.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...item=2403284364

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Benita, interesting awning, However I installed the snaps last night. I'll install the tarp snaps tonight. I'm taking my boy fishing this weekend. Gonna need the shelter, I'll bet, rain expected.:reyes

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Dang, dude. You work fast!

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Orginally posted by Suz

Dang, dude. You work fast!

Not always!:L

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I not sure how well snaps or a rod attached at either end would work when it rains. I say this because our Trillium didn't come with the awning rail and we had to install one ourselves (which is cheap and easy). First time it rained the water followed the curve of the trailer, ran under the rail and poured down the wall of the trailer:crying The door had to be kept shut or it dripped inside. We caulked along the whole top of the rail and then no more leaks.

These curved roofed trailers especially need a waterproof seal between the awning and roof.
Nancy

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good point, Nancy

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Nancy, this had occurred to me. Whether I can make it work...
:o

Our little trailer is old and the roof sags just a bit. I followed the upper contour instead of the lower one with the snaps. Also I hope the water that runs down the side will hit the rain gutter above the door. Also, the snaps let me take the whole thing off and fold it up to put away for travel. Right now there are nine snaps across the top, I ran out. When the new ones arrive from JC Whitney I'll double them to 18 or 20 for good measure.

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>>when they arrive from JC Whitney

This has absolutely nothing to do with nothing, but I live about 40 miles from the JC Whitney warehouse and distribution center. I stop everytime I go by it (on I-80), because they always have great deals on stuff, such as close-outs, returns, etc ... and, of course, you can order anything from the catalog and have it delivered while you wait.

If you're ever driving through Illinois on I-80 ... and enjoy the JC Whitney kind of stuff ... consider stopping in LaSalle, at the distribution center.

Give me a shout and maybe I'll meet you there!

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I used a length of co-axiel cable (flea market) fed it through a hem I made on the tarp and slid it through the track on the Boler,2 extensible tent poles for corners 1 for centre. I can<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3e4e94ef37787F1110013Small.jpg/> add sides if needed.