Bed extensions?

[Timber Wolf]

Originally Posted by RogerDat

Because the X shaped legs are in full contact with the floor along the bottom edges the platform should not slide easily. It won't wobble or sway either. Down side would be that all that leg contact would be more of a problem on uneven ground when used as a table then the 4 points of contact from pipe legs.

Just cut a half circle or upside down "V" in the bottom of the pieces so they make 4 feet instead of 100% contact with the ground.

[RogerDat]

Originally Posted by Timber Wolf

Just cut a half circle or upside down "V" in the bottom of the pieces so they make 4 feet instead of 100% contact with the ground.

That would be a good solution, you could adjust the "V" or half circle size based on a little trial and error to give you solid contact with smooth floor and decent stability on uneven ground.

Think you might end up with 4 feet and a center post unless the cut out part included the middle. Not sure how cutting the middle would work since that is where the slots are.

I was thinking of going to the garage and seeing if I had the wood to make one again. Now you have gotten me thinking.... Dang you, now my brain hurts!

[Sheryl M]

I like Vivian's original idea, with the channels mounted under the table. All one needs is to drill a hole on each side and place something like a cotter pin (or pin like the door lock uses) to keep the table from sliding further out. During the day, the table is out of sight, and one still has the under area for storage.

[Vivian L]

Originally Posted by Gilda

Photos please, Vivian?

I've wondered about using a "scissor-stand adjustable height base" table like this as an extension. I have no idea if it would support the weight of a person scooting off it. Lifetime Personal Tables - 280056 Black Folding Table 20 x 30 Top

If you go back to pages one & two, I have already posted what I have in pictures and on the second page of posts, I scanned a drawing of the channels. My aim was to have something that just slid out of sight and out of the way and yet let me use that space for storage as well. Flipping the mattress and excess bedding up onto the main bed during the day is all I have to do. And I can tell you with the 2x2 legs that fold down to support the outter end of the extention, once it's out, it ain't going anywhere. I have no need of another table for outside, but if you do, then some of these other ideas will probably work better for you.
Vivian

[Vivian L]

Originally Posted by Sheryl M

I like Vivian's original idea, with the channels mounted under the table. All one needs is to drill a hole on each side and place something like a cotter pin (or pin like the door lock uses) to keep the table from sliding further out. During the day, the table is out of sight, and one still has the under area for storage.

You are right Sheryl. I forgot that part. The first time we went on a trip with the new bed, the board slid out during the trip and we had quite a time getting in because our screen door opens in. I used a strap with a snap on it to hold the bed, but yep, yep, cotter pins work. Thanks for reminding me.
Vivian

[Sheryl M]

Vivian- how far out past the cabinet does the bed extend?



Sent from my iPad using Fiberglass RV

[Vivian L]

Originally Posted by Sheryl M

Vivian- how far out past the cabinet does the bed extend?



Sent from my iPad using Fiberglass RV

I cut the board almost the same length as the bed width (the old table) so you can pull it out as far as you need to. For us (two semi-shorties) we found that pulling it just to the edge of the closet made it lots long enough for us, especially when you sleep on a bit of an angle. Once I established that, then that's how big I made the little extension mattress. Tall, tall people might want it to come out farther and short, short people might get away with less. That's the beauty of it. As long as you have enough of the bed board still in the channels, you are good to go.
V

[Vivian L]

If you go back to the first page on this thread, I think you might be able to get an idea from one of the pictures, how far out it comes.
v

[samclem]

For a Scamp 16' or Casita 16'/17':
- Does anyone have measurements for the max width of these extensions (i.e. distance between the kitchen cabinets and the cabinet on the other side of the trailer).

(Apologies for resurrecting this old thread.)

Thanks.

Mark

[4x4LDY]

We must be thinking alike, I have been looking for this old thread! I needed to know the same for the eggcamper for future planning for a pullout bed Thanks for bumping this post!

[samclem]

Originally Posted by samclem

For a Scamp 16' or Casita 16'/17':
- Does anyone have measurements for the max width of these extensions (i.e. distance between the kitchen cabinets and the cabinet on the other side of the trailer).

(Apologies for resurrecting this old thread.)

For those interested: I heard back from the folks at Casita. The width of the aisle is 25" in both the 16' and 17' Casitas.

[TheWanderers]

We've been working on this idea for a few months now while we've been completing the other mods that are required. Well, it's time to address this idea and I was "planning" while in the shower this morning.

I'm thinking that we can rework the existing table configuration with an additional "box" that will be used as the base for the extension. What I mean is this: we want to create the "U" shaped seating against the rear wall of the camper under the back window which means shortening the existing table top to accommodate the added seating.

So, I have been thinking, without taking actual measurements, that we could build a box-in-a-box seat for the back sectional seating. The inside of the box would pull out and be placed on the floor of the isle to support the table top drop down into the slot for the current bed surface. Then the table top would be two layers of plywood with a piano hinge to allow the top for fold over into the isle for the extension resting on top of the box support.

The primary seat box remains against the rear wall as permanent seating as well as the head support for the sleeping area while the second box stores inside the primary box for travel parts/storage like a drawer capitalizing on the storage space gained from the additional booth seating arrangement.

I can see that I would use this wooden box for storing my electrical cords, jack stands and water hose that would be moved outside into "service" while camping and the box would be empty when needed for service as a bed support. I'd draw it up in a picture for illustration but I'm technologically challenged these days.

Whadyathink?

[TheWanderers]

The actual measurements don't matter as much as you would think because you could make the rear seat "deep" enough to match the height requirements for the box support size for the extension base. I'll be working on this project tonight for a proof of concept but it will be a long construction process for the final project for me because the results, to me, should look like a nice wooden box/cabinet for storage.

Of course, you'll also need the seat cushion for the window box seat as well as the bed extension cushion, but that's easy enough...

[TheWanderers]

I just completed building a temporary wooden box to use as a test of this method of extending the bed. When Laura get's home from her mother's we'll give this sleeping arrangement a try and see if this solves our problem.

I'd show you a picture but I used old wood and stuff I had on hand so it'd not be much to look at except that it'd be a smallish wooden table. Once we try sleeping in this configuration and it proves worth investing in new materials, I'll include the dimensions and design work as well as pictures.

Can't wait for my baby to get home!

[samclem]

Originally Posted by TheWanderers

Whadyathink?

I think I follow what you are talking about. Things that come to mind:
1) For an extension of this type (no modification of the side cabinets, heads at the back of the trailer) both people will need to sleep with their feet/legs in a single "slot" about 24" wide. Opinions will differ, but IMO that probably won't provide much improvement in comfort.
2) The added "box" sounds like a lot of bulk to be stored and muscled around for what it accomplishes (just supporting the bed extension). Could you achieve the same result with a hinged addition to the standard tabletop (to provide the additional horizontal surface area for cushions) and 1 or 2 simple screw-in legs on the end? 2" Schedule 40 PVC would probably work fine. Just an idea.

[TheWanderers]

Originally Posted by samclem

I think I follow what you are talking about. Things that come to mind:
1) For an extension of this type (no modification of the side cabinets, heads at the back of the trailer) both people will need to sleep with their feet/legs in a single "slot" about 24" wide. Opinions will differ, but IMO that probably won't provide much improvement in comfort.
2) The added "box" sounds like a lot of bulk to be stored and muscled around for what it accomplishes (just supporting the bed extension). Could you achieve the same result with a hinged addition to the standard tabletop (to provide the additional horizontal surface area for cushions) and 1 or 2 simple screw-in legs on the end? 2" Schedule 40 PVC would probably work fine. Just an idea.

Sam:

We successfully tested this concept on our first camping trip and the space provided was ample for both of us. However, you are right about the weight and bulk. I moved this box into and out of the camper for two days because it would have proven too much for my wife to move more than a time or two by herself. The size was very useful as a food prep table outside but it became another task to accomplish getting ready for bed.

That doesn't mean that the concept is bad, but rather the design of the first prototype was off a little. I like where you're going with the PVC materials because it would be a lot lighter to maneuver but the strength to carry my 220#s of body weight getting into/out of bed would make me wonder about durability.

My original design was to take the scissors lift concept of a portable table and use a hinged table top that would fold out into the extended position but the two spaces are of different sizes and the weight of a double thickness table top becomes unruly as well.


Back to the drawing board...what about 1/2" plywood with PVC legs that could be screwed onto a fitting for setup using a male adapter and flange? I wonder if the plywood would be strong enough to carry 300#s without the addition of side rails for structural support? Also, could you divide the 24" X 24" plywood into two sections and join them in the center with a piano hinge to make it easier to store away during the day? Humm....

[samclem]

Originally Posted by TheWanderers

Back to the drawing board...what about 1/2" plywood with PVC legs that could be screwed onto a fitting for setup using a male adapter and flange? I wonder if the plywood would be strong enough to carry 300#s without the addition of side rails for structural support? Also, could you divide the 24" X 24" plywood into two sections and join them in the center with a piano hinge to make it easier to store away during the day? Humm....

Bill,
For your 91 Scamp, how wide did the foot area (dinette to kitchen?) turn out to be? I was told the Casitas are 24" wide, but the space in some Scamp photos looked to be wider than that. Was it really just 24"? Anyway, it's good that you guys found it to be wide enough for comfort.
About your proposed revisions: I'm pretty sure 1/2" plywood would not be sufficiently stiff if the legs were just screwed onto the corners and 300 lbs plopped in the middle (and that's what you have to plan for). But two or three pieces of 6" w by 1" thick board (5 1/2" x 3/4" actual) screwed and glued to the bottom of the plywood would stiffen it up a lot and give you something meaty to affix the PVC leg fittings to. If you want to get fancy you could put one of those pieces in the middle and rip it in half after it is glued and screwed to the plywood, then attach your piano hinge to the underside of that. If you use a piano hinge then you can fold it in half, but the weight will still be in one lump. If the weight is proving to be a hindrance, you could instead design something that could be "broken down" (i.e. using a few carriage bolts and wing nuts) then it could still be stored in a small place but it might be easier to lift.

Notice: I am not a structural engineer, am just offering uninformed opinion, and did not even sleep in a Holiday Inn Express last night. Test anything with something other than the weight of real people!

Mark

[TheWanderers]

Ok, stay with me for a minute; we have enjoyed using the dinette area without the table as a area to lounge and read or just hang out, without the table in place. I've taken the table outside and leaned it against the side of the scamp when we do this and the feeling of much larger space is nice.


I propose to retain the ability to remove the table from the dinette but retain the functionality of the original table and mount points with the following idea. We need to replace our dinette table because it's absorbed some moisture and the laminate is coming apart as the particle board swells.


I would replace the original dinette table with 5/8" plywood (maybe 3/4" or whatever dimension fits the slot to match the original thickness table) and use the original mounting column for use during the day.

At night, remove the column and end turn the table top to expose the end normally against the rear wall under the window to show this bracket. Attach half that bracket to the dinette table and the other half to another piece of plywood 24" X 34" for the bed extension. (You may have to provide some additional support under the bracket for the bed extension to attach.)

Support this new bed extension with a four legged table base in the isle built from 2" schedule 40 PVC pipe, built to size that is approximately 12" W X 12" L X 19" H, placed near the end of the bed extension away from the dinette table. This four legged table support can be stored in the shower closet during the day and used as a trash receptacle employing a "tall kitchen trash bag" and deployed at night under the bed extension. (The legs of the support table could remain removable, if desired, to allow you to store flat if you didn't want to use it as a trash receptacle.) I suppose that you could actually build the support table much larger to provide support to the extension and just knock it down during the table for a more secure base: 18" W X 24" L X 19" H

This new idea is much less expensive. Also, a lot lighter weight and easier to manufacture as well as easier for anyone to deploy/store away.


To answer your previous question: the isle way is about 30" wide. I used 24" wide in my original design simply because I already had a piece of plywood that size.

[samclem]

Originally Posted by TheWanderers

I would replace the original dinette table with 5/8" plywood (maybe 3/4" or whatever dimension fits the slot to match the original thickness table) and use the original mounting column for use during the day.

At night, remove the column and end turn the table top to expose the end normally against the rear wall under the window to show this bracket.

Since the tabletop can't simply be pivoted around on the top of the column (the corners would hit the wall), you'd need to detach the tabletop from the wall and lift it up/out to rotate it. It will be heavy and awkward, I think you may find it a bit of a pain in the, um, back.
A very simple approach to this whole issue would be to find a >sturdy< plastic bin (the kind used for curbside recycling, or a couple of commercial milk crate-style containers) that are the right height to support your table extension (or, if they are a bit short, use extruded polystyrene foam (aka pink insulation board) as needed between these bins and your extension board so it exactly matches the height of the edge of your big table. These bins can be used to hold supplies/clothes--slide 'em under the table when traveling, when at rest and during the day put 'em in your tow vehicle if no good place exists in the trailer, then at night just position them in the right place and use them to support your bed extension board (or boards) on top. That bracket you found, mounted on the edge of the the full-size table and on the extension parts, could be used to securely mount the extension table(s) to the big table to prevent them from coming apart. Or, you could permanently mount the extension table to the dining table with a piano hinge, fold it under the table in the daytime.

Mark

[TheWanderers]

Sam: I believe you have a firm grasp of what I intend to try to fabricate. The table top must be lifted from the column and place into position to create the bed anyway, so rotating it 180° to put the bracket facing the cabin of the camper seems like a natural to me. I'll try to get some pictures after I've worked this out but it'll take a few days to assemble the components. Stay tuned...