Best table bracket attachment - Fiberglass RV



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Old 05-23-2019, 04:39 PM   #1
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Name: Julie
Trailer: trail mite
Washington
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Hello, I cut a bigger table (30 x 40, 3/4 inch from Ultra light plywood) for the Trail Mite and pretty sure I will need to stabilize it somehow. Currently I am set up with the round metal piece in the center. I have found a bracket/support by Dyers and also the Lift Table Kit from Scamp. Question is, how do you attach the metal brackets to the fiberglass.
I appreciate all your helpful responses, this is a great site.
Julie
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Old 05-23-2019, 05:28 PM   #2
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There have been a number of threads at the Escape forum discussing the use of a Springfield pneumatic table mount and the Lagun table mount. There are advantages and, of course, disadvantages to each system, but in general, most owners have preferred them to the standard post & socket RV table mount.
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Old 05-24-2019, 10:09 AM   #3
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Name: Peg
Trailer: 2016 -13' Scamp
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Originally Posted by jbenkovich View Post
Hello, I cut a bigger table (30 x 40, 3/4 inch from Ultra light plywood) for the Trail Mite and pretty sure I will need to stabilize it somehow. Currently I am set up with the round metal piece in the center. I have found a bracket/support by Dyers and also the Lift Table Kit from Scamp. Question is, how do you attach the metal brackets to the fiberglass.
I appreciate all your helpful responses, this is a great site.
Julie

I am curious, as well. The screws that hold one of my table brackets to the rear rat fur/wood block wall stripped within weeks of use. I've tried to fill and remount the bracket with no luck. Whatever MF wood is under the rat fur must be trash.


Maybe we'll both get an answer to our similar dilemmas.
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Old 05-24-2019, 12:03 PM   #4
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Name: Greg
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This mod might not appeal to everyone, but I did modify the side dinette table mounting system. I never liked the pedestal "pipe mount" right in the middle under the small table, which I always banged my knees on. It also took up room right in the middle of the space under the table, rendering it as virtually useless as a space for storing things while travelling. I installed a totally different mount, similar to the one I used to have on my boat years ago, which consists of two extruded aluminum rails. One rail mounts to the back edge of the table and the other rail is secured to the side wall via a board I installed along the street side with stainless machine screws and fender washers and Nylock nuts. Outside, the screw heads are hidden under snap caps and aren't even noticeable unless you actively seek them out. They just blend in with all the other snap caps on the trailer. For support of the table's front (aisle way) end, I installed an extendable folding support leg. Since the table length, (front to back,) is less than the distance to the floor, it needed to be telescoping so that I can shorten it if I need to fold it under in order to use it as a fill-in piece for the bed, or extended it so the table is level when set up as such. All you need to do is tilt the front edge of the table up to release the two rail sections from each other. Reinstalling the table you just start the top edge back into the wall rail at an angle, and allow it to set itself when the table is horizontal. The table top is very solid now, unlike when it was on that wobbly pedestal. I also left the floor pedestal mount in place and just cover it with a 18" X 2 ft. rubber door mat. You don't even know it's still there.

https://www.amazon.com/AP-Products-0...ll+mount+table

https://www.amazon.com/JR-Products-2...8TRFFEV8V49RWF

Some of the reviews on this table leg weren't very good, mainly due to the fact that the spring on the latching handle, which engages the locking tabs on the swivel, kept falling out. I worked around this problem by drilling a hole through the handle, right in the dimple which is supposedly there to hold the spring in place, (but it doesn't really hold it well at all,) and the upper section of the square leg and just inserted a small machine screw and locking nut on it right through the middle of the spring. Now it can't fall out anymore.
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Old 05-24-2019, 06:34 PM   #5
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Name: Julie
Trailer: trail mite
Washington
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Thank you so much for your experience with a new table attachment! I am going to go this route and I know it will be more stable the center pole. Another member wrote how he attached wood blocks with epoxy to the fiberglass so the brackets can be screwed in. Sounds like a solution to me.
Thanks to all!
Julie
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Old 05-24-2019, 07:45 PM   #6
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Name: bill
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Originally Posted by herons View Post
I am curious, as well. The screws that hold one of my table brackets to the rear rat fur/wood block wall stripped within weeks of use. I've tried to fill and remount the bracket with no luck. Whatever MF wood is under the rat fur must be trash.


Maybe we'll both get an answer to our similar dilemmas.
Sounds like your wood is rotted. Not unusual, depending on age.
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