BigFoot 25RQ what mods have you made? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-21-2019, 06:32 AM   #1
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Name: Henry
Trailer: BigFoot
Tennessee
Posts: 866
BigFoot 25RQ what mods have you made?

Or what mods have you made on whatever model BF you have. Starting the following mods on my 25RQ:

1. Installing a Blue Ox Sway Pro. This requires cutting into the fiberglass cowling on the front, on both sides. I just pulled the TT home from Atlanta to Nashville, in heavy rain and wind, up a 6% grade and down the other side, and had not one problem. I pull with a 2011 Tundra, 4x4, towing pkg, 5.7L engine. Using this same truck towing a 17' Casita I noticed a slight improvement in handling with an Andersen WDH, so I anticipate at least a bit of improvement using a WDH on the BF.

2. Found a screw loose. (at this point nothing else amiss!)

3. Putting a 7 pin protector on the A frame jack. May put a couple of carabiners on the jack to hold the emergency chains off the ground when parked.

4. Had a MicroAir Easy Start installed by the dealership. Probably should have done it myself.

5. Putting a door handle on the screen door.

6. Will soon install a vent cover over the Fan-Tastic fan. Maybe over the bathroom fan, unless I replace that with another Fan-tastic fan. Probably use the Fan-Tastic vent cover as opposed to the MaxxAir Vent cover. Not sure which is best at this point.

7. Noticed condensation in the back up lights and a outside corner light. Will take apart, dry, put dielectric grease in connections, encase in liquid gasket and reinstall.

8. a couple of paint chips need to be addressed.

9. Reinforce drawer fronts and corners with L brackets.

10. Will either paint or laminate plywood panels under the seats and bed. Probably will paint inside of most compartments. Don't really like the looks of raw wood. If not paint then stain and polyurethane.
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Old 02-21-2019, 10:00 AM   #2
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Name: Russ
Trailer: 2020 25 RQ
British Columbia
Posts: 99
We ordered ours in Jan....anticipate delivery in April....custom order:
1. 2 Fantastic Fans
2. Eliminated mirror in hallway
3. Eliminated extended bench seat on "drivers" side of dinette...added cabinet
4. Eliminated TV and bracket in bedroom
5. Increased size of skylight
6. Eliminated storage rack
7. Eliminated external "shower"
8. No solar or generator
9. Added cover for awning (when rolled up)
10. Moved plug from underside of front cabinet (above dinette) to the cabinet on the "drivers" side
11. Eliminated mattress duvet cover

The savings over the price tag at the local dealership for one "on the lot" and same length was astonishing.

As soon as I get the trailer, I'll remove the "wind down" stabilizers and have them powder coated....and...add fanmate vent covers to both fans.
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Old 04-29-2019, 08:01 AM   #3
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Name: Henry
Trailer: BigFoot
Tennessee
Posts: 866
My BF is a 2019 25RQ, which we picked up Feb 19, 2019, from a dealer in Atlanta, GA.

Powder coating the stabilizers is an interesting idea. No sure where to go to have such a thing done here in Lebanon, TN, which is just east of Nashville about 30 miles. Is it expensive?

If I were to customs order one I think having a 25 twin bed model and a second fantastic fan would be about the only changes.

I am about ready to order and install a (Amazon) hardwired PROGRESSIVE INDUSTRIES 59016 30 Amp Hardwired EMS-HW30C RV Surge & Electrical Protector. I wonder if Grant might put one on for you?

I am coating the bottom corners/edges on each side of the entry door casing with clear water based polyurethane. I noticed on our Casita that these areas discolored and somehow may have gotten wet. although I don't recall any water penetration. Just a precaution on my part.

I checked and adjusted the brakes, which is easy to do, just get a brake adjustment tool.

I greased all the suspension zests, they all took grease. Used the same grease used to Lube the axles: The axles use a lithium based grease.

I checked all the screws under the trailer and found one about half way out. Used Blue Loctite and carefully screwed it back in.

You may want Grant to add a WDH to the trailer. I have cut my cargo box and installed a Blue Ox Sway pro. However, the trailer pulled great when I drove it home from Atlanta, GA to Nashville, TN, over a 5 mile grade of 6%, during a very heavy rain and strong winds. I drove 55 and 60 but once hit almost 80 because I forgot it was back there. I don't drive fast as a rule, not sure why that happened.

See if you can't get Grant to give you a bag of various size stainless steel Robertson screws, these are very hard to find in the US: Very superior fasteners. Also maybe a quart of Heng's sealant, also a superior product.

The screen door has one hydraulic arm at the bottom. I wonder if it might not be possible to put another at the top. I doubt that only one will hold the door open in a really strong wind.

You will really enjoy your new trailer. Happy Trails!
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Old 10-29-2019, 12:32 PM   #4
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Name: Tom
Trailer: R-Vision & In the market
Massachusetts
Posts: 75
Quote:
Originally Posted by Russ Foster View Post
As soon as I get the trailer, I'll remove the "wind down" stabilizers and have them powder coated....and...add fanmate vent covers to both fans.
I don't want to rain on your powder coating idea but I worked in a Rental yard as the main mechanic for 5 years. All of the equipment came through powder coated and it never seemed to last. I was not impressed with any of it.

Maybe a custom shop would do better prep work and just a better overall job. I would use a good coat of rustoleum primer then a top coat. You can patch a paint job not so much powder coat.
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Old 10-29-2019, 12:37 PM   #5
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Name: Tom
Trailer: R-Vision & In the market
Massachusetts
Posts: 75
I have ordered a 25TB and I am planning on removing one of the beds and replacing it with a nice couch or a work table and a comfortable chair.

If anyone has any ideas on this I would really appreciate it.
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Old 10-29-2019, 03:13 PM   #6
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Name: Henry
Trailer: BigFoot
Tennessee
Posts: 866
Thx ThomasC, this is good info. Will paint instead of anodize.
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Old 11-08-2019, 06:52 PM   #7
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Name: Tom
Trailer: R-Vision & In the market
Massachusetts
Posts: 75
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rzrbrn View Post
Thx ThomasC, this is good info. Will paint instead of anodize.
I am always learning. I read this over on a Hensley vs Pro pride forum thread.

"The steel is properly pre-treated for powder coating. This will help prevent against chipping and rusting, which Hensley hitches are known for."

So evidently there is a right and a wrong way to powder coat. I will stand by the fact that it is easier to touch up paint than powder coat though.
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Old 11-10-2019, 09:44 AM   #8
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Name: Russ
Trailer: 2020 25 RQ
British Columbia
Posts: 99
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rzrbrn View Post
My BF is a 2019 25RQ, which we picked up Feb 19, 2019, from a dealer in Atlanta, GA.

Powder coating the stabilizers is an interesting idea. No sure where to go to have such a thing done here in Lebanon, TN, which is just east of Nashville about 30 miles. Is it expensive?

If I were to customs order one I think having a 25 twin bed model and a second fantastic fan would be about the only changes.

I am about ready to order and install a (Amazon) hardwired PROGRESSIVE INDUSTRIES 59016 30 Amp Hardwired EMS-HW30C RV Surge & Electrical Protector. I wonder if Grant might put one on for you?

I am coating the bottom corners/edges on each side of the entry door casing with clear water based polyurethane. I noticed on our Casita that these areas discolored and somehow may have gotten wet. although I don't recall any water penetration. Just a precaution on my part.

I checked and adjusted the brakes, which is easy to do, just get a brake adjustment tool.

I greased all the suspension zests, they all took grease. Used the same grease used to Lube the axles: The axles use a lithium based grease.

I checked all the screws under the trailer and found one about half way out. Used Blue Loctite and carefully screwed it back in.

You may want Grant to add a WDH to the trailer. I have cut my cargo box and installed a Blue Ox Sway pro. However, the trailer pulled great when I drove it home from Atlanta, GA to Nashville, TN, over a 5 mile grade of 6%, during a very heavy rain and strong winds. I drove 55 and 60 but once hit almost 80 because I forgot it was back there. I don't drive fast as a rule, not sure why that happened.

See if you can't get Grant to give you a bag of various size stainless steel Robertson screws, these are very hard to find in the US: Very superior fasteners. Also maybe a quart of Heng's sealant, also a superior product.

The screen door has one hydraulic arm at the bottom. I wonder if it might not be possible to put another at the top. I doubt that only one will hold the door open in a really strong wind.

You will really enjoy your new trailer. Happy Trails!
Did the suspension zests have grease nipples?
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Old 11-10-2019, 09:50 AM   #9
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Name: Henry
Trailer: BigFoot
Tennessee
Posts: 866
Not certain what a zests is(computer probably self corrected), but the suspension does have greaseable zert points/nipples. It has the upgraded suspension with the brass bushings and grease zests.
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Old 11-10-2019, 02:28 PM   #10
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Name: Tom
Trailer: R-Vision & In the market
Massachusetts
Posts: 75
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rzrbrn View Post
Not certain what a zests is(computer probably self corrected), but the suspension does have greaseable zert points/nipples. It has the upgraded suspension with the brass bushings and grease zests.
Not trying to be a pain but the word is zerk. Microsoft's spell corrector is flagging it on me LOL.

Just do a browser search "grease zerks" and you will see that the word is correct.
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Old 11-10-2019, 02:50 PM   #11
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Name: Henry
Trailer: BigFoot
Tennessee
Posts: 866
Yes, you are right Tom, the correct word is zerk.
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Old 11-11-2019, 09:47 AM   #12
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Name: Russ
Trailer: 2020 25 RQ
British Columbia
Posts: 99
LOL...I actually googled zests to find out......thinking to myself....never heard "that" before hahahaha.

Thanks for the info...I 'll check my "zests" asap!
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Old 11-20-2019, 06:22 PM   #13
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Name: Bueno
Trailer: 2020 Bigfoot 25RQ
California
Posts: 8
Do you happen to know whether or not you have 1000lb or 1500lb bars with your Blue Ox?

Thanks,

Mark
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Old 11-20-2019, 06:49 PM   #14
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Name: Russ
Trailer: 2020 25 RQ
British Columbia
Posts: 99
I am using the 1000lb bars....
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Old 11-20-2019, 10:09 PM   #15
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Name: Henry
Trailer: BigFoot
Tennessee
Posts: 866
I use 1500 bars. I just don't overly tighten them. I have tried 3 loose links but lately have been using 4 links free and this seems to be about right. I carry a lot of weight in the cargo box.

Just FYI, I back up with the bars on, and have not noticed any issues, but it would probably be better to take the bars off when backing up.

I just today took off the fiberglass spare tire cover and will use a nylon tire cover. That fiberglass cover is very heavy.
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Old 11-22-2019, 02:43 AM   #16
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Name: Elliott
Trailer: 2017 19' Escape
Everywhere
Posts: 146
Blue Ox pretty explicitly says it's fine to back up with the bars attached, so I'd assume there's no advantage to removing them. They tuck in pretty tightly, so even going at a sharp angle it shouldn't make a significant difference.
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Old 11-22-2019, 03:11 AM   #17
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Name: Henry
Trailer: BigFoot
Tennessee
Posts: 866
I towed my 25RQ (with the front cargo box) Big Foot home from Atlanta, GA to Nashville, TN without a WDH, in the rain. This was on the Interstate, and included a long 6% grade, up and down. The BF towed better without a WDH than my Casita does with the Andersen WDH attached. After I got the BF home I added a Blue OX Sway Pro and the towing experience became somewhat better, but only marginally so. I still use the WDH on the BF, even if only for the psychological benefit.

I pull with a 2011 Tundra 4x4. I now have 90K mile on the Tundra and I have only had it in to the shop for oil changes. Nothing on it has ever needed adjusting or correcting. The body remains perfect. But then I don't live in Michigan, where I grew up. The salt on the roads rot anything made of metal, no matter how it has been sealed on the underside. However, there are a number of things the Tundra is negative on: The gas tank is too small, mileage is not good, not enough payload capacity and engine braking is not as strong as I would like. I would like to not have to brake even one time when going down a long 7% grade in second gear. Using first gear on anything less than about an 11% grade is much too slow, and using 2nd gear on a long 6% grade results in having to use the brakes a bit too much for my liking. I drive about 55-60 mph, usually.
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