Bigger windows in trillium - Fiberglass RV

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Old 03-30-2016, 12:49 PM   #1
Name: Hughe
Trailer: Trillium 76
British Columbia
Posts: 30
Bigger windows in trillium

I purchased a 1976 trillium a year ago & have completely gutted it.
I bought 2 new side windows for it. I wanted to increase the size of the window opening by about 3/4" on each side. On a trillium next to the window it flares out a bit so I thought I'd cut right at the flare & install the new windows. I was speaking with someone & they said don't cut away the flare because it's structural. I don't understand how an area that's flared out 2' up/down would really be structural.
I have attached a photo where I would be cutting.

My issue is I've bought the windows already, any suggestions comments?
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Old 03-30-2016, 03:21 PM   #2
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Name: Rick
Trailer: 1984 Bigfoot B17DLX
Rural Alberta
Posts: 7
I'm no pro, but I know that body lines add strength to a fender so it makes sense that the same holds true with a trailer. Also by raising the fiberglass around a window the water would be deflected somewhat, rather then running directly onto/into the cocking.
If it were me I would resell the new windows rather then possibly screwing up the trailer.

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Old 03-30-2016, 04:30 PM   #3
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Name: Darnelle
Trailer: 13 ft Scamp
Posts: 310
Look at the ribs on metal pole barn siding, they are for strength.
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Old 03-31-2016, 11:08 AM   #4
Name: Barbara
Trailer: 1977 Trillium 4500
Posts: 53
Jalousie windows

As a fellow owner of a 1977 Trillium 4500, I can tell you that our original jalousie windows are amazing. They may not be big but they allow a terrific air flow - we've never even used our ceiling fan - and because they're jalousie, rather than sliders - they can stay wide open during even the most torrential downpour and you still get a breeze, but don't get wet. I'd never replace our windows!! Think twice!
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Old 03-31-2016, 11:25 AM   #5
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Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1977, 1978 (2), 1300 - 1977, 1973, and a 1972
Posts: 5,564
Besides losing the structure, that the angle in the fibreglass provides, you will now be installing a flat window on a curved surface. The angle is there to give a flat surface to install the windows on.

You appear to be installing radius windows. Even if these are jalousie windows, they will not have as large of an opening as the original windows. What are you going to accomplish with this conversion?

But, I am all for experiments, on some one else's trailer. Please let us know how it turns out.
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Old 04-01-2016, 12:19 PM   #6
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Name: Randy J.
Trailer: Trillium
Posts: 147

We have a 1976 Trillium as well, so I'd be really interested in seeing posts as to how your renovations are coming along.

I would advise caution as well. I've had both front and back windows out on ours to replace the wood frames. The OEM frames seem to work with the ridges to provide overall strength. But if I was really keen to do this, I would first seek advice from a reputable place that does structural fiberglass work - possibly an RV place but more likely a place that builds/repairs fiberglass boats. Tom from Trillium Parts is an old hand as well and may have some good advice.
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Old 04-01-2016, 01:02 PM   #7
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Name: Raz
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 4,336
As David said, the molds incorporate a flat plane to allow windows to seal. Cutting beyond that plane will make it impossible to seal the window to the shell. The crease also provides some rigidity to the side wall as does the window. Be careful. Raz

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