bkboler renos - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-26-2012, 10:42 PM   #1
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bkboler renos

When I bought my boler 2 years ago all the equipment was gutted and a makeshift counter was installed. I wasn't too fond of it so I tore it out and decided I would try to add a typical bar fridge and rebuild around it. The only problem is that the platform is only 16" deep and most of the fridges I've seen are around 21" deep. I might have to rethink that. The space between the wheel well and the front bench is the perfect size for a cooler so that is a possibility but I'm back to stocking ice. I know, use one of those electric coolers, but they are almost the same price as a bar fridge. What to do!!
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Old 04-26-2012, 10:51 PM   #2
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Someone patched all the vent holes with a chunk of plywood on the inside and some sort of particle board cut to size and fit in all the holes with some putty and then painted over. I had always wondered why I had perfectly square cracks. Good thing I took the counter out. Turned out the plywood on the inside was covered in mold.
I did most of the prep work myself but I had a friend help with the actual fiberglassing.
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Old 04-26-2012, 11:09 PM   #3
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The overhead cabinet had some broken rivets so I replaced them with bolts and a one piece washer/gasket hoping that would keep the water out but I still don't trust it. The gasket is going to break down eventually and when I decide to paint I'm probably gonna have to remove them.

The window on the kitchen side doesn't close all the way. So I either have to replace or find some replacement parts.
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Old 04-26-2012, 11:33 PM   #4
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I thought I figured out how to add text then add pics and add more text with more pics etc. but I guess not.
Anyway, the tires were car tires so I found proper trailer tires, bought new rims and found out the trailer tires were a little bigger and didn't fit under the wheel well on the door side so I pulled out the Ryobi sazall and trimmed it up till the tire fit.
Next was ripping off the old drip edge over the door and replacing. I think I might have put it a little too high. I tested it out by pouring a bucket of water over the roof but it didnt seem to do much. I'm guessing it just there to stop water from seeping down inside the door.
I found a nice spare tire mount at Princess Auto so I attached it to the front of the frame, seems to be out of the way, especially if I decide to add a bike rack to the back.
Here is a side view and a couple of picks of the outer and inner door lock. Not exactly appealing to the eye so I might replace eventually.
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Old 04-27-2012, 09:19 AM   #5
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Brian, your mods are looking great. I don't know what the area behind your door lock looks like, but I moved mine to a different location and glassed in the original hole, you can't really see it.

On your Fridge, I rebuilt my kitchen counter and made it 3" deeper to get in my new fridge, something you might consider.

If you end up restoring your windows, you might check this link, as I replaced all the rubber in my windows and have the info on it. List of seals to restore old style scamp jaloused windows

Nice looking rims and door eye brow.
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Old 04-27-2012, 10:11 AM   #6
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Hi Dan
Thanks for the reply.
I thought about building the counter deeper but then the whole counter will be sticking out from the wall an extra 5" which will cut into the living space and the center area isn't very big to begin with.
As for the rims, they aren't fancy, just your typical white rim with the hubcaps that were on the older tires.
I will look at the link for the windows right now. I've already found an autoglass shop that carries the seal for the front and rear windows, bought a new piece of tinted acrylic for the back window so this weekend I will (try to) install that.
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Old 04-29-2012, 06:29 PM   #7
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This weekend I replaced the back window seal and installed a new piece of tinted acrylic. I also did the same with the front but I put in the old plexi till I can afford a new tinted piece. I'm not sure if I'm happy with the final result. The fiberglass and window grooves don't seem to be as deep and the area between the two grooves is smaller. I can actually slide the seal up and down a little, like the window is just a tad too small. Also the top part of the window seems a little flimsy. From the inside, it is pretty easy to push on the top center of the glass and have it pop out. Maybe this is normal, I never noticed with the old seal.
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Old 04-29-2012, 06:36 PM   #8
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The first pic is finished product from the inside. The lockstrip closes up nicely to a tiny little line. It was fun trying to figure out how to slip the strip into the groove.
Second pic is finished product from outside.
I managed to get a little frustrated with the back window so I took a break and decided to remove the water tank and cover.
The pic under this thread is a side view of the seal I bought.
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Old 05-09-2012, 12:46 PM   #9
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I know there are alot of other threads out there refering to redoing the insulation, but I am wondering if anyone has given any thought to just glueing another layer of the same material found in bolers over top of the existing to add a little more R value? Do you think the glue would stick to the paint on the existing material?
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Old 05-09-2012, 02:50 PM   #10
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Brian, please dont get to discouraged. These are always a work of love and always in some stage of progress. Also feel free to keep posting here as there are alot of Bolar owners to help with any P's & Q's you have. I cant begin to tell you how proud you will be when its done and you stop somewhere with it and someone stops to give you compliments. Keep us all updated with photos, your doin a great job.
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Old 05-09-2012, 03:27 PM   #11
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Brian, I re-built the whole inside of my trailer, did all the fiberglass work and painted it, but when it came to installing the new molding and windows in the front and back I called a glass guy to do it. I worked on it for 2 hours and was getting very frustrated. The glass guy had a helper and it took them a hour to get both of mine in. It was money well spent.
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Old 06-01-2017, 12:37 PM   #12
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Well, it's been a while since I've done some work on the boler. Looks like I'm going to have time this year. This weekends project is to redo the roof vent. I guess I didn't seal it properly, leaks a bit. Also, I have some rivets that seem to be there for no reason, top of front and back windows towards the corners of the outside shell. they are not the ones for the curtain rods, a little higher and further out. One above the other about an inch or so apart. Were these originally for the roof shelf on front and back of boler? Another thing I'd like to do is take off the little Fiberglass covers at front and back. The cover at back has the table attachment on it but I never use the table anyway. I like the permanent bed idea, less work in the morning. But under is a piece of wood attached to the wall and the same is on the front. Are those there for some sort of support? I can see the reasoning for the back because of the track for the table but not sure what the front would have been used for. Do I need to leave them on?
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Old 06-01-2017, 01:05 PM   #13
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Brian I was just reading through your thread, nice project so far. I too am having issues with my rear/front window seals. From what I have found out from a distributor of the 2 piece lock strip gasket is it doesn't matter which side goes in or out contrary to other info here. I think it looks better with the smooth side out, but getting the lock strip installed from the inside can be more challenging. The key from what I understand is making sure there is no gap where the two ends meet and but up to each other and that a liquid flow-able silicone by Permatex (used for auto windshileds) should be applied to the area where the ends meet to seal it so water doesn't penetrate this seam. The other key thing which I didn't give any thought too is the distributor said the seam should be at the top of the window or on the side never at the bottom as it allows water to funnel into the seam area. I asked about my seals being old and worn out and he said to move the seam to the top (mine is at the bottom) and try sealing it with the liquid flow-able silicone and that should take care of it.
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Old 06-01-2017, 04:54 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Johnny M View Post
Brian I was just reading through your thread, nice project so far. I too am having issues with my rear/front window seals. From what I have found out from a distributor of the 2 piece lock strip gasket is it doesn't matter which side goes in or out contrary to other info here. I think it looks better with the smooth side out, but getting the lock strip installed from the inside can be more challenging. The key from what I understand is making sure there is no gap where the two ends meet and but up to each other and that a liquid flow-able silicone by Permatex (used for auto windshileds) should be applied to the area where the ends meet to seal it so water doesn't penetrate this seam. The other key thing which I didn't give any thought too is the distributor said the seam should be at the top of the window or on the side never at the bottom as it allows water to funnel into the seam area. I asked about my seals being old and worn out and he said to move the seam to the top (mine is at the bottom) and try sealing it with the liquid flow-able silicone and that should take care of it.
Hi John, I used the one piece, seems to work pretty good except I do get some water where the lock strip meets. I haven't wanted to seal them together yet because I'm going to have to take the windows out again when I finally paint. I don't want to have to worry about cutting it later.
I never would have thought about having the 2 ends meeting at the top, good call, makes sense. I'll have to remember to do that. I also put the locking strip to the inside and I do think it gives it a cleaner look on the outside but I might reverse it, the one piece does close up pretty nice.

Just finished driving around looking for more butyl tape for the roof vent. Vent is leaking where the screws come through. I thought it was because I used the wrong screws (not ss) and had rusted but the lady at one of our local rv repair places said that shouldn't matter, there should have still been a tight enough seal that water shouldn't get through. Who knows. I'll try again with a Universal Vent Kit they had and I'll use ss nuts and bolts.
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