Boler 1700 refresh. - Page 6 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-18-2011, 08:20 AM   #71
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Trailer: Boler 1700SGH (Stage II twoftitis)
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Maybe it's mainly a US thing to find 30A services... Or maybe it's that we typically camp off the beaten path... If we see an "RV Park" full of diesel pushers or multi-story 5th wheels, we keep driving.

As far as "through-hull" battery posts, I'm not sure what you mean but there are quick connect connectors that are used for hooking up jumper cables without having to lift your hood, or other such uses. They are available in various sizes for various current ratings... Or you could get really fancy and use a Cannon or Amp mil-round connector.. I would probably not have exposed posts that a wrench could fall on when you swap your propane tank... I personally would never put my batteries inside in the first place. This Boler already had a 'hole' in the floor that all the wiring to the tongue was already routed, including the battery cables (which were only 12ga in the first place). I put a 30A breaker immediately first thing after the wires came in through the floor and made sure to adequately secure the wires along the frame to prevent abrasion.

Anyway, having said all this, the trailer referenced in this thread is now for sale. Our recreational needs have changed...

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...rta-45864.html
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Old 04-18-2011, 02:08 PM   #72
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Name: Borden and Carole
Trailer: Boler 1978 17' 4" Earlton Ont Model
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Hi: Herb P
We have a 79 1700 boler made in Ontario with RGH configuration. Want to change out the very heavy rear upper bunk to lighter materials your aluminum frame maybe just the trick. Two sections hinged should work well.
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:57 AM   #73
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Name: Bonnie and Claude
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Egress windows

Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
YEOW! And people wonder why little trailers need an egress window or roof vent...
Would you know what the egress window is on a Boler 1300 Honey Bee? The side windows are jalousie style. Does one attempt to kick out the plexiglass window?
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