Boler Rebuild by The Egg Plant - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-01-2014, 01:27 PM   #1
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Boler Rebuild by The Egg Plant

Here we go again!

This 1975 Boler was shipped down to us from Canada for a major renovation. The body is in fair shape, the floor is intact, and the door closes pretty snugly.

Of course, we begin by stripping everything out of the cabin to identify any damage inside, clean out all the years of dirt and debris, and provide access to the hold-down fasteners to the frame.
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Old 04-01-2014, 01:31 PM   #2
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But typical for a trailer of this age, the fiberglass suffers from a myriad of minor cracks, weak spots, and miscellaneous cut-outs that will be repaired before we hit the paint booth.
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Old 04-01-2014, 01:35 PM   #3
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Though we have not yet seen the entire frame, we know that some previous owner cobbled some repairs to the original. We'll build a new frame with new axle, etc. in the coming weeks.
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Old 04-01-2014, 02:22 PM   #4
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Looking forward to seeing the photos of the work, and of course the final product.
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Old 04-30-2014, 11:37 AM   #5
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Robert, how is it coming along? Looking forward to pics!
Slav
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Old 05-04-2014, 02:02 PM   #6
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Yesterday we removed all the hold-down hardware between the shell body and the frame. The frame will be pulled out from under this week and be used as a template for a custom-built replacement.

It has taken us about 10 hours to completely strip the interior of all superfluous and/or busted down components and parts. Remnants of the Ensolite wall covering have been shaved off the fiberglass shell. We will replace the original wall covering with Reflectix and marine-grade hulliner. We'll sweep/vacuum out all of the debris then carefully use a pressure washer to clean out the forty years of residual dirt. Hopefully the washer will help reveal, and then allow us to repair, any joint failures.
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Old 05-04-2014, 02:11 PM   #7
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This 1975 Boler, though in need of a lot of work (especially filling all of the body holes and cut-outs), has a few very good things going for it:

1 This year/model features an integrated fiberglass floor pan, so there's no rotten floor to repair or replace.

2 The "glassed-in" plywood support braces that help secure the furniture components are still intact and in pretty good shape. These will save us some time down the line.

3 The door has a very good and tight fit. This is huge. Trying to "re-form" a door to seal well is a big and costly job.
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Old 05-06-2014, 07:40 PM   #8
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Shell and frame have been separated. Shell stripped down in preparation of fiberglass repairs. Frame yanked out ready for recycling.
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Old 05-12-2014, 04:47 PM   #9
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Hi Robert,
What kind of layout are your clients looking for?
Marc
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Old 05-17-2014, 06:08 PM   #10
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This client has a couple kids, so the only significant change to the interior will be some expanded bunk bed situation in front.
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Old 06-06-2014, 12:44 AM   #11
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Silicone or Caulk or ???

Hey Robert,

As I'm getting going on my project again I was wondering what kind of sealer to use on the outside around things like lights to prevent any water from getting into the interior of the rig. Is silicone the way to go or is caulk a better compound or is there still something better?

In the instructions for the roof fan I've seen caulk suggested. Do I need that putty tape as well?

What about the door drip cap?

Thanks so much! And I look forward to seeing your project develop.

Slav
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Old 06-06-2014, 01:27 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert Johans View Post
1 This year/model features an integrated fiberglass floor pan, so there's no rotten floor to repair or replace.

2 The "glassed-in" plywood support braces that help secure the furniture components are still intact and in pretty good shape. These will save us some time down the line.

3 The door has a very good and tight fit. This is huge. Trying to "re-form" a door to seal well is a big and costly job.
I think that #1 and 2, along with the extra piece of metal on the frame that extends out to the door frame have all helped with the door fitting properly.

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Old 06-06-2014, 10:58 AM   #13
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Slav,
Except for the door, I use butyl putty whenever I need to create a seal with the shell body. In fact, I have on a couple occasions used carriage bolts through the shell to help hold upper cabinets in place. These too get some putty under the heads and around the threads.
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Old 06-06-2014, 11:16 AM   #14
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Slav,
Except for the door, I use butyl putty whenever I need to create a seal with the shell body. In fact, I have on a couple occasions used carriage bolts through the shell to help hold upper cabinets in place. These too get some putty under the heads and around the threads.
Awesome! Thank you Robert!
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