Boler Voyageur 1300 Reno - Page 6 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-04-2016, 08:49 AM   #71
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Trailer: Boler 1984
Ontario
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To stop the drawer from falling out while on the road l cut a rabbit just behind the front. Just needs a 1/4 inch lift to open


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Old 04-05-2016, 07:54 PM   #72
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James, I like that idea. I am not sure if I can retrofit my drawer with that option but I will look more closely into the possibility. I have latches on all the doors and the drawer and did not have any issues with the drawer opening unexpectedly. In fact, the issue was that after a week on the road the drawer pretty much wouldn't open.
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Old 04-06-2016, 07:58 PM   #73
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I had a question regarding the construction of the cedar closet and since I couldn't figure out how to post pics on an private message I am posting them here.
In order to build the cedar closet my wife wanted i had to build a frame inside the cabinet using 1" pine. I built a 3 legged box frame around the wheel well first then I built the two sides which I glued to the FG wall of the closet with PL300 adhesive and clamps. There are supports along the back edge of the sides that allowed me to attach the cedar panels to the back. The frame had 3 sides and was self supporting with the sides glued to the FG which made it pretty darn solid.
I opted for a flat ceiling and in fact I cut an access into the "attic" space to put Ipads and books into (beware of condensation!) from the dinette side.

The bottom of the closet is a hatch that allows access into the wheel well space. and the shelves are custom cut cedar planks sitting on 1/2" square rails. 1/2' brad nails fasten everything together.
Here are the pics of a quick sketch I used and a few of the visible frames.
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closet frame.jpg   wheel well.jpg  

shelf support.jpg   attic.jpg  

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Old 04-06-2016, 08:05 PM   #74
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Here are a couple of pics of how the maple back-splash is attached . There are actually only 3 screws along the back of the kitchen counter. Now, I understand many Bolers don't have this flange but I do and the black vinyl trim also helps hold the back-splash in place top and bottom.
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Old 04-06-2016, 08:10 PM   #75
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Here are a couple of pics of how the maple back-splash is attached . There are actually only 3 screws along the back of the kitchen counter. Now, I understand many Bolers don't have this flange but I do and the black vinyl trim also helps hold the back-splash in place top and bottom.
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Old 04-07-2016, 07:41 PM   #76
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I noted on one of my other posts that I am having problems with my converter. I cleaned up my ground connection to my frame and even changed some of my wires around but I just can't get my LED lights to stop strobing. I did manage to get them to shut off which was a problem last spring, but don't ask me what I did to make that possible (I think it's because I pulled the lead to the battery).
Last night I removed my ancient converter and I have taken it to a colleague who is an electrician and I have asked for his help because I am baffled.
I am of mixed mind about whether to replace it if it is unrepairable or to go cordless for good. We traveled all last summer with out shore power and life was grand but I sure like the idea of having access to electricity once in a while. Guess it all depends on if it is fixable or not.
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Old 04-07-2016, 08:24 PM   #77
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Jay,

My original converter in my Trillium died shortly after I bought the camper. Since my only 12vdc power needs were 8 LED bulbs and a LP detector, I decided to use a cheap 110vac to 12vdc plug in adapter. It supplies 2 amps at 12vdc and that's all the power I need. It works great.

-John
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Old 04-08-2016, 01:35 PM   #78
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That's good to hear John. I had thought about just using an "adapter" like the one I bought for my 12volt cooler. This would give me the option to run some 12 volt systems when I have access to shore power.
I don't have lot of power needs so maybe I am worried about something I don't really need.
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Old 04-09-2016, 05:52 PM   #79
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I finished the drawer today, pretty sure I wont have problems with it for a while. Sturdier glides mounted in a box. Nice and solid.
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Old 06-19-2016, 09:36 PM   #80
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Fridge door repair

Last summer the 30-year-old plastic frame on my fridge door gave up. I don't know if it was the rough roads or the age of the plastic but the plastic trim around the door cracked around the mounting hinges and the door fell off almost every time I moved campsites. The last fix while on the road ended up being duct tape and 5 min epoxy. Not my most triumphant fix but it worked.
This past week I finally tackled the project with results that made me happier. I made a new frame using x aluminum channel, actually the left over material from my belly band. I cut out 45* angles and bent the channel to fit the door.
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Old 06-19-2016, 09:41 PM   #81
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After a chat one afternoon with my brother about my plan I moved onto the next stage. I removed the foam from around the perimeter of the door, inserted some deck screws to act like re-bar anchors, clamped the new aluminium frame to the old door interior and filled the void with low expansion spray foam.
A day or two later I trimmed the foam flush with the aluminium. Everything seems great.
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IMG_1136 [417880].jpg   IMG_1137 [417881].jpg  

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Old 06-19-2016, 09:46 PM   #82
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The door panel insert that I made last year was damaged by the many falls and fixes so I made a new maple panel. This time I added another maple leaf to the fridge door. I bought some aluminium tile transition trim at the Habitat for Humanity Re-store to frame the new panel. I riveted the new trim to the aluminium channel and slid my door panel in. Looks pretty good.
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Old 06-19-2016, 09:56 PM   #83
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The new door fits on the old fridge quite well. At one point this winter I had resigned myself to having to buy a new fridge but this seems to work great. Gotta love it when a plan comes together.

P.S. You might also note our "vintage" find this winter in this photo. Original Tupperware stacking mugs, one for each of us - sounds like I'm going to end up with the brown one though!
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Old 03-19-2017, 06:54 PM   #84
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I can't believe that I am this excited about a set of hinges! I have wanted to replace the hinges on my rock guard since I got my trailer. I went through the whole rebuild but I just could not find the right hinges to replace the old plastic ones. I saw some on vacation in Georgia last year at a West Marine but I couldn't justify the cost (that and the 30% conversion rate!!). So I ordered some off of ebay (new experience) back in December. They were stainless steel and cheap and they finally arrived last week (March). It was like Christmas!
Here are some pics.
The old broken hinge - note the electrical wire actually holding the rock guard in place!
The new and the old hinge - it's going to look sooo good!
Lastly, drilling out the rivets - man, I hate drilling on my shell...
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drilling.jpg  
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