Bolt length - Fiberglass RV

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Old 04-06-2015, 10:54 PM   #1
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Name: Wado
Trailer: 74 Boler 13
British Columbia
Posts: 10
Smile Bolt length

I have tried searching but so far I can't any post outlining the size and length of the bolts you would need to replace rivets. Length and diameter of at least the most common ones. Overhead cabinet, side closet, etc. The plan is to use a SS pan head with a nut and acorn to finish it off.
No one has these locally so I have to order online.

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Old 04-07-2015, 04:23 AM   #2
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Name: Carl
Trailer: 2015 Escape 5.0TA
Posts: 1,067
Both Lowe's and Home Depot (are either of them in BC?) sell #6 and #8 SS machine screws (pan head bolt) and nuts as well as acorn nuts to fit. To determine length, drill the head off of a rivet and measure the approximate length of the rivet from where the head was to the bulge, and add adequate length to accommodate the nut and the acorn nut. As a minimum, I would use blue Loctite on them, and would probably use a flat washer and lock washer then just an acorn nut. But what I am wondering is why would you want to replace perfectly functioning rivets in the first place......

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Old 04-07-2015, 10:49 PM   #3
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Name: Wado
Trailer: 74 Boler 13
British Columbia
Posts: 10
The closest Home Depot, or Lowe's for that matter, is a 4 hour drive. I can't measure the rivets since they are all drilled out already. And of course it leads to the bolt vs rivet debate that has been going on for a long time on this forum.
Any one have a couple of suggestions as to length? It also seems like others are using stainless acorn nuts but why not locking nuts with plastic caps. That way nothing has a chance to work loose.
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Old 04-08-2015, 04:18 AM   #4
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Name: Eddie
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21
Posts: 1,588
I once replaced the rivets on the upper kitchen cabinets in a 84 Scamp-13 with screws. The trailer did not come with the plastic caps and the bare rivets heads were showing. The trailer had an ensolite liner not ratfur.
For the 3/16 rivets I used # 10 pan head stainless screws. On the outside I used plastic capbases under the screw head with a sealer of either butyl tape or 5200 sealer. On the inside I used a flat washer and nylock nuts. I ended up special ordering #10 X 5/8" pan head stainless screws to get a fit where the screw just passed through the nylon lock on most screws. The shell thickness varies so sometimes I used 1/2" or 3/4" screws.
I normally use rivets for replacements but there are certain locations (Like corner rivets above the closet.) on trailers where the rivets continually fail then I may use a screw. Botton line is one size does not work in all locations, like rivets you have to see how they fit.
I find local hardware stores (ACE/True Value) have a better stainless screw selection than the big box stores.
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Old 04-08-2015, 04:55 AM   #5
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Name: Steve
Trailer: 2003 Casita 16' SD
Posts: 1,729
Snip 'em.

Buy them long-ish. These will probably be #8 or #10 bolts which aren't so thick that they can't be snipped/cut to length after tightening the nut. I, too, would use a flat washer on the inside. Leave enough length to put the acorn nut on. A quick pass or two with a file would probably be sufficient to clean up the threads to get the acorn nut to engage. (Maybe a small stone wheel in a Dremel would ease the process.)

I'd probably sacrifice one bolt to confirm that my cutters (probably end cutters) were up to the task before I started wholesale rivet removal.

But, I'm good with rivets and haven't made the swap.
Quando omni flunkus, moritati
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