bunk bed over rear dinette - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-26-2011, 01:40 PM   #15
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I just went out and measured for you.

The bed width across the trailer is about 78". I measured the back wall at the center of the curvature and the bed would be about 70"

The depth front to the back wall of the bed is 45"

Height from the top of the bench seat with 4" cushions in place is about 45" except for the very center of the trailer it's about 48". The 48" spans about 35 inches in the center of the trailer.

I just measured my shoulders and they are 21 inches across. So needless to say I'd need some 24 inches just to turnover, I'd want more. But that would leave you with roughly 21 inches at the least for the bunk but then take off inches for the mattress or pad you might use up there. A cot would only be the thickness of the material. Seems pretty tight to me.

I put the front bunks up once and I know I wouldn't want to sleep in either the lower or upper and that's with some 5 inches extra in height split between the two. They would have been do-able for little kids.

If I had 2 little kids, I'd forego the bath and get couch/bunks. Then you could get both upper cabinets in the front and back.

The measurements above did not take into account a rear overhead cabinet.
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Old 01-26-2011, 02:49 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by harms View Post
The front bunk takes away the bathroom in a 13 footer and to me the whole idea is to have a bathroom/shower. Otherwise I would just use a tent and a coleman stove and save about $10k.
My goal is to find the cheapest way to sleep 4 with a bathroom/shower setup.
Ah I see, in that case I would look for a Scamp 16fter with the bunks in front and the side bath shower. I can not imagine having a bunk over the rear bed in a scamp with a front bath, the inside area is quite small.
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Old 01-26-2011, 03:29 PM   #17
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Ah I see, in that case I would look for a Scamp 16fter with the bunks in front and the side bath shower. I can not imagine having a bunk over the rear bed in a scamp with a front bath, the inside area is quite small.
I think you are exactly right. I will save little extra and get the 16.
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Old 01-26-2011, 07:42 PM   #18
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I agree, a 16 will be more comfortable for a family of 4.

I think one child could sleep under the dinette (made up as a bed) but it would be really tight for 2 kids. For one kid it could be fun, if they were told they get to sleep in the cave.
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Old 01-27-2011, 04:43 PM   #19
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Yeah, that's the solution. A 16 footer with sidebath and the couch up front to convert to bunks. I had forgot about that floor plan. Then you have the best of both worlds.
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Old 01-28-2011, 06:30 AM   #20
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You still run into a weight problem eventually. I don't think Scamp has ever changed the weight limit for the upper bunk. I believe it's 80 pounds. I can't imagine what it would be like to be on the bottom if the top fell down. And yes, there have been instances where adults have slept on the upper bunk, but it only takes one "break" to ruin a trip... or for someone to get badly hurt. YMMV
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Old 01-28-2011, 07:16 AM   #21
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Good point Donna. I'm sure it would be pretty easy to make a stronger bunk when the time arrives.
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Old 01-28-2011, 10:18 AM   #22
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I am looking at buying a 13' Scamp and was wondering if there is anyway to put a bunk over the rear dinette for my two boys. I am hoping for something that can be taken down and stowed, easily kinda like the fornt bunk setup.
thanks
Scotty trailers used to have a gaucho upper bunk in that location.
It was made with canvas which was permanently attached at the rear and was rolled out to a single rod across the front which attached to a bracket on each side wall.
Here is the only picture I could find.....
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Old 01-28-2011, 10:39 AM   #23
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Scotty trailers used to have a gaucho upper bunk in that location.
It was made with canvas which was permanently attached at the rear and was rolled out to a single rod across the front which attached to a bracket on each side wall.
Here is the only picture I could find.....

Any idea what the load rating on the Scotty bunk was?
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Old 01-28-2011, 12:42 PM   #24
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Any idea what the load rating on the Scotty bunk was?
I don't, I just found one to buy for a rahab project, but the guy couldn't find the title.
Any way, if you adapted the concept to a Scamp you would have to be your own engineer and set the load rating based on your construction and confidence. The former owner had been using it for hunting and had a grown man sleeping in it.
That trailer was built before we, as a nation, made a habit of consulting bureaucrats about everything we ate, slept on,drove, towed, or shopped for.<_<
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Old 01-28-2011, 04:45 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
You still run into a weight problem eventually. I don't think Scamp has ever changed the weight limit for the upper bunk. I believe it's 80 pounds. I can't imagine what it would be like to be on the bottom if the top fell down. And yes, there have been instances where adults have slept on the upper bunk, but it only takes one "break" to ruin a trip... or for someone to get badly hurt. YMMV
I looked at a 1973 Surfside TM-14 last fall when we were looking for a new trailer. We didn't get that one, but the Surfside has a much better support system for the front bunk, being (as I recall) two side posts of reinforced fibreglass which were part of the wall structure, with the front bunk (which was wider than the Boler bunk) supported firmly by the supports . The supports went right down to the floor on the door side and were part of the kitchen wall on the kitchen side. They used two chain latches, which were probably standard door security chains mounted vertically, to attach the bunk to the posts, which seemed very strong and could not jar loose like the poles on the Boler/Scamp setup. I am certain it would support much more than the 80 (or so) pound limit for the flimsy Scamp/Boler bunks. I made a mental note to do something like that if we ever needed a bunk. I don't see why side supports running right down to the solid floor or dinette bench, as the case may be, would not provide adequate support for a rear bunk, assuming that the base of the bunk was also strong enough.

Another way might be to attach a post or three around the edges of the rear dinette and fibreglass or otherwise attach them in place. That way the bunk, when down, could rest right on top of the posts and could not slip off. The problem with the Boler/Scamp method, other than the weight limit, is that any movement of the bunk can slip the flimsy poles from the single bolt that catches the pole loop to hold it in place. If the posts only came up to the height you wanted and the bunk rested on top of them, they could not fall down. Of course, you would have to have the bunk either removeable or folding up, not down, unless the bunk was hinged in the middle and could be folded that way to go down when not in use. Hmm, too many possibilities.

Clear as mud, no?
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