Burro air conditioner mod - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-04-2016, 03:09 PM   #1
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Name: Mike
Trailer: Burro
Iowa
Posts: 14
Burro air conditioner mod

Created an insulated sheet metal attachment which allows an airconditioner to be mounted under a seat and vented through the floor. Works like a charm.Click image for larger version

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Old 08-05-2016, 12:31 PM   #2
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Name: Zac & Cathy
Trailer: Burro
California
Posts: 70
Registry
That is awesome!
We are thinking about replacing our roof AC unit with a solar evaporator water cooler. Mostly because we travel with a small little bird and the heat would kill him. This way we could leave him safely in our Burro for day excursions. Plus we live and travel mostly in the western States. But here's the problem, we really want to take a trip around the USA and in the eastern States.
we would need a AC unit. If we could have both we would be set. Can you tell us kind of how you put your AC unit under your seat?
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Old 08-05-2016, 01:29 PM   #3
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Name: Mike
Trailer: Burro
Iowa
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Right when you walk in the door of my burro there is a small table area that converts into bunks. There is a space under the bench closest to the door that the small 5000 airconditioner with the attachment fits. The bottom of the attachment had a round vent pipe that sticks out a hole that is cut in the floor. Also had to make a small hole for the condensation from the unit to drip out.
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Old 08-05-2016, 01:35 PM   #4
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Name: Bob
Trailer: Casita 16SD
Florida
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A word of caution about installing ac unit in a closed area. I have an early 80's Casita. When the original ac died a couple of years ago I bought a new unit and installed it like the original sealed the sides and bottom of the compartment with aluminum flashing and waterproofing. The problem is that newer ac units don't drain condensation water the same as the old units. The newer ones have a small tray under the condenser fan that collects the water and then the fan creates a mist that sprays it over the coils to aid in cooling the unit. The excess water then drains back into the tray or overflows to the rear of the unit. If you don't have your entire compartment waterproofed and able to drain it will spray a fine mist that will saturate everything around it. I thought I had it all covered but the moisture collecting over time caused a good bit of damage in the compartment. Before installing your unit start it up and let it run in the open for a hour or so. Then hold your hand near the side vents on the part of the unit that would be outside and you'll see how much water is being sprayed around. Not all units are designed this way but most are. By the way, nice fabrication on the duct work. Looks like it should do the trick as long as all the condensation has a way out.
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Old 08-05-2016, 01:43 PM   #5
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Name: Mike
Trailer: Burro
Iowa
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Thanks for the info. I did line the floor with what essentially is which rubber shelf liner. It is lined in a way any missed drips are channelled to the drip hole. I also let it run for an entire day on a day it was very humid and 95 out. I found no moisture with the exception of the floor where I intended it to be. With that said I'll be sure to Pat attention to the sides a bit more next time I turn it on.
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Old 08-05-2016, 02:57 PM   #6
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp
Alabama
Posts: 824
The louvers on the side and back draw in air that is exhausted out the back and down.
Do you have an air inlet for this air?
If not the AC will pull that hot outside air in and cost efficiency and effectiveness.


Sent from my SCH-I605 using Fiberglass RV mobile app
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Old 08-05-2016, 03:07 PM   #7
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Name: Mike
Trailer: Burro
Iowa
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The hot air is completely sealed off once it leaves the airconditioner until it is outside. So there is no way for the hot air to renter the system. The insulated attachment eliminates almost all heat transfer from the hot exhaust air as it passes though the system. The air that enters the airconditioner is the air around the unit. There is also a space left under and on the side mounting trim that allows for additional circulation.
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Old 08-05-2016, 09:25 PM   #8
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Name: Bob
Trailer: Casita 16SD
Florida
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Your unit may be different than the one I installed. The fan on mine has a ring around the outer edge of the blades which is designed to pick up the water from the tray. Yours may not have the ring. Most of the water that is diffused by the fan evaporates as intended but in the enclosed space on my Casita it still collected enough to cause the areas around it to become saturated over time. To check for the moisture let the unit run until there is water dripping from the drain then hold your hand by the side vents and see if you detect moisture. Hopefully yours will be fine. If not you could take measures to waterproof the entire area around the ac. A good product for that is ac duct mastic (sold at Lowes or ac supply dealers). It is a brushable sealer used for ac duct a work and can be used on almost any surface.
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Old 08-07-2016, 10:47 PM   #9
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Name: george
Trailer: 1998 burro 17'
Texas
Posts: 12
very interested! i have a 17 wide body that i want to ditch the 13500 roof unit with a smaller 6-8000btu a/c that i can run on my yamaha 2000. any pics of it mounted inside?
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Old 08-08-2016, 08:06 AM   #10
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Name: Mike
Trailer: Burro
Iowa
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Inside picture of mounted air conditioner.
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Old 08-08-2016, 01:37 PM   #11
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Name: george
Trailer: 1998 burro 17'
Texas
Posts: 12
looks good. i would probably want to duct in outside air for the condenser coil and use a bit bigger a/c for here in south texas, but that looks about like what i want to try. thanks for the pic! george
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Old 08-08-2016, 03:12 PM   #12
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Name: Darral
Trailer: Scamp Standard 13' 2010
Tennessee
Posts: 1,163
Neat installation, but I'm confused as to what is with the side vent inside the trailer.

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Originally Posted by Mtanner View Post
The hot air is completely sealed off once it leaves the airconditioner until it is outside. So there is no way for the hot air to renter the system. The insulated attachment eliminates almost all heat transfer from the hot exhaust air as it passes though the system. The air that enters the airconditioner is the air around the unit. There is also a space left under and on the side mounting trim that allows for additional circulation.
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Old 08-10-2016, 08:28 AM   #13
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Name: George
Trailer: 85 Uhaul CT 13
North Carolina
Posts: 98
I got tired of wiping up water from the floor in my Parkliner; I removed the shroud case and broke off the plastic wheel attached to the ends of the fan blades on my Frigidaire unit. No more water on floor and has not affected the cooling of the unit, yet!

Sent from my LG-E980 using Fiberglass RV mobile app
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Old 08-10-2016, 08:38 AM   #14
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Name: Darral
Trailer: Scamp Standard 13' 2010
Tennessee
Posts: 1,163
What size A/C is this? I have a 1 yo 6K Frigidaire I use in my bedroom window. Being in Tenn...especially right now!...it's pouring water but out the back. Some of these small ones are very irritating constantly "splashing" water. But this is one of the first small ones I've bought that I dont hear it. Havent looked to see if it has the ringed fan or not. But this I DO know, I made a "baffle" outside on the case so that the water splash through the louvers wouldnt go all over my windows/panes/sash. I check it and now it's running the water off the side and down and my window stays dry. I figure this is the same water expulsion your are experiencing except it's running in your floor?

I hear the "splashing" is intentional so that it cools the coils better SUPPOSEDLY making it more "efficient" and extend its life.

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Originally Posted by George Lauver View Post
I got tired of wiping up water from the floor in my Parkliner; I removed the shroud case and broke off the plastic wheel attached to the ends of the fan blades on my Frigidaire unit. No more water on floor and has not affected the cooling of the unit, yet!

Sent from my LG-E980 using Fiberglass RV mobile app
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