Burro Rehab So Far

[Dale A Smith]

Dale, I used an indoor/outdoor carpet, glued in place with contact cement. I found it at a local surplus store. It is much lighter and thinner than any normal carpet. I think it might be very similar to automotive carpet. Walmart sells a similar weight carpet roll in the auto section, unfortunately only in a dark grey.

I liked it because it was so light compared to the original brown shag, the new liner is grey but close to white/beige.

Dale consider adding reflectix insulation under the headliner, I had it at the house and forgot to install, kick myself every time I look up.

Mike

HI Mike,
Thanks for the info... I did consider adding the reflectix as a first layer, but I think it might make the edge too thick, or look "lumpy"... I do plan on making inserts out of it for the windows.
I will look for a thin indoor outdoor carpet... I thought there was a specific product... I've seen on walls as a sound treatment. I'll post if I find it. Right now, I'm trying to seal all the leaks before I start installing the new stuff. Photos as I progress.
Best Regards
Dale

[MikeCM]

Dale what kind of leaks are you chasing? Window related? I had a few places where I thought I was getting leaks from the window frame seals, (and I may have been). I scraped out some of the butyl from the outside and used plumbers putty to make a smooth seal. But still had a lot of moisture, I sat out in the burro during a heavy rainstorm and noticed that the water was pooling in the bottom of the windows (front and rear). I pulled the lower track insert and found a lot of dirt build up. I could not see this buildup until I pulled out the plastic insert. After I cleaned the track and drain slits, I slid the plastic insert track back in. I have not had any leaks since. I had used the plumbers putty as a quick fix, as I knew I wouldn't have time to pull all the windows and get them back in. That was 20 months ago, and no leaks so far, so pulling the window frames is on the bottom of my priority list.

Not sure on the headliner depth on a u-haul, but on the burro there was plenty of depth for both reflectix and the thin head liner I used. I think it may have come very close to flush. Oh well there is always next time. The added insulation would have really helped up here in the northeast, but not to the point where I would pull the headliner off and start over. I'm sure there are many products that could be used, I just hated the shag carpet look (and after 28 years mine had somewhat stale and musty smell).

Good luck with the leak remediation, and I am looking forward the progress via pictures. I like the look of the u-hauls and that would have been my first choice, but any fiberglass egg is rare up here.

Mike

[Dale A Smith]

Dale what kind of leaks are you chasing? Window related? I had a few places where I thought I was getting leaks from the window frame seals, (and I may have been). I scraped out some of the butyl from the outside and used plumbers putty to make a smooth seal. But still had a lot of moisture, I sat out in the burro during a heavy rainstorm and noticed that the water was pooling in the bottom of the windows (front and rear). I pulled the lower track insert and found a lot of dirt build up. I could not see this buildup until I pulled out the plastic insert. After I cleaned the track and drain slits, I slid the plastic insert track back in. I have not had any leaks since. I had used the plumbers putty as a quick fix, as I knew I wouldn't have time to pull all the windows and get them back in. That was 20 months ago, and no leaks so far, so pulling the window frames is on the bottom of my priority list.

Not sure on the headliner depth on a u-haul, but on the burro there was plenty of depth for both reflectix and the thin head liner I used. I think it may have come very close to flush. Oh well there is always next time. The added insulation would have really helped up here in the northeast, but not to the point where I would pull the headliner off and start over. I'm sure there are many products that could be used, I just hated the shag carpet look (and after 28 years mine had somewhat stale and musty smell).

Good luck with the leak remediation, and I am looking forward the progress via pictures. I like the look of the u-hauls and that would have been my first choice, but any fiberglass egg is rare up here.

Mike

Hi MIke,
Well I finally got my trailer back from DJM in Hammond, LA... DON'T EVER USE THEM!!
They gave me an estimate of $50 per window to seal... they said they would take them out and use butyl putty to seal...
After getting a price of $110 per side window from Sunview, I decided that I would replace the sides and have the pros seal the front and rear. After keeping it for two weeks, they said that the rear was not able to be sealed but the front was done... I showed up there to pick it up and the guy was squirting silicone around the front window and had not removed it... I removed the inside frame and left it there... The following week I went to retrieve it and they had the front sealed. I had purchased some rubber/felt v-notch track for the windows from Perfect fit to seal the track for the sliders and they charged me $100 to install it in the back window plus $150 for sealing and "shop materials".
When I got it home, I got the hose out and tested it... the front is sealed but the rear and sides (with the new rubber track) also leaked...
At that point, I removed all the windows but the front and placed my order with Sunview in BC 250/494-1327. They only charged me $110 for the rear window (same as the side sliders).
After a conversation with Larry at Sunview, I followed his recommendation to get a solid rear window as opposed to a slider... He said that the vacuum at the rear might draw water in and I just want to have confidence of a dry bed... I bought some butyl tape and will be re-bedding the awning rails and am going to replace the marker lights with LEDs and rebed while I'm at it. The round tail lights are another source of water... they have the rubber grommets so I will be replacing them with a set of LED round lights with built in flanges, so I can seal around them and tighten them down to the body.
In the scheme of things, I'm glad to be replacing the windows... the 26 year old gaskets would have been very difficult to pull and seal on the side windows since they didn't have a frame like the front and rear... all three new windows will have a "sandwich" of an inner and outer aluminum flange that should make installation and sealing easier... the main thing will be to sand the gelcoat and clean clean clean with acetone, MEK, or both before applying sealant.
I have called the credit card company an am going to dispute the charges from DJM.
I already have the Avanti AC/DC fridge, new tiny window unit AC, microwave, foam, and upholstery on hand, but couldn't proceed untill I was assured of a weathertight platform.
Oh, I also got a new converter and fuse panel.... and a set of new hubs from Uhaul.
Lots of projects to complete before July.
Best Regards.
Dale

[Raya]

... I showed up there to pick it up and the guy was squirting silicone around the front window and had not removed it...

I can't say more until I get my heart started again. OMG!!

Good on you for getting your egg OUT OF THERE and disputing the charges.

Raya

[Phil Underwood]

I like your style. nice work on the burro

[MikeCM]

Dale, that sounds like a nightmare, glad to hear that you found a solution (I would have gone with the new windows too). You have quite a list of projects, I look forward to seeing pictures. Where are you planning to install the AC? Are you replacing an icebox with the fridge?

Mike

[MikeCM]

I like your style. nice work on the burro

Thanks Phil, now if it would just stop snowing up here I could get out there and work on a few more projects. The snow is stacked up above the frame.

Mike

[MikeCM]

I showed up there to pick it up and the guy was squirting silicone...

It always amazes me that repair shops just start squirting silicone, guess they think a quick fix is best for repeat business?

Our larger camper (a Rockwood Roo) had a front bunk leak. I brought it in for warranty repair, two squirts of silicone and they said it was all set (1.5 hours each way to the dealer). Leaked the very next trip, so back it went. Three weeks later it came home with a brand new front bunk hatch. The new one was a completely different design that pushed the water out instead of pouring in. All three bunk hatches also had new seals all around. Huge difference when they do the job right.

Mike

[Dale A Smith]

The weather has finally turned nice here outside New Orleans (and hasn't gotten miserable yet) so I was inspired to tackle the project in earnest while it is in its really raw state... I went in with a power washer, shop vac, and heavy duty detergents, bleach, and mold chemicals. I presprayed through all the cracks and crannies including the holes where the marker lights were and any crack behind any seat or storage area.
with the shop vac removing the gallons of unmentionable that flowed out and down to the low end as I powerwashed... After sitting in the fresh air for a few days and drying out, the camper finally has lost it's funk, but not it's mojo, if you know what I mean.
Glad to have this done... once I begin installing the new electrical, I won't be going in with the power washer again. I pre-sprayed the overhead carpet with "spray and wash", scrubbed in with a brush and power washed off... The camper really feels so much nicer. The new windows have been shipped and the cushions are at the seamstress... The plan for the AC is to go under the sink. I had a custom door made hinged on the bottom, so it can hang open 180 degrees when running and the extension cords can be stored in the "hard duct" space when underway.
Pics as I progress... I guess I should start a thread on the project.
Thanks to everyone for your inspiration and ideas.
Dale

[Roger C H]

Thanks for all the info on working on your eggs. It is fun to share the excitement and pleasure you must be getting as your eggs become fresher.

[CharleneM]

Love the line about losing it's funk, but not its mojo...classic!

Where did you get replacement windows?

charlene

[quote]the camper finally has lost it's funk, but not it's mojo, if you know what I mean.
Glad to have this done... once I begin installing the new electrical, I won't be going in with the power washer again. I pre-sprayed the overhead carpet with "spray and wash", scrubbed in with a brush and power washed off... The camper really feels so much nicer. The new windows have been shipped and the cushions are at the seamstress... The plan for the AC is to go under the sink. I had a custom door made hinged on the bottom, so it can hang open 180 degrees when running and the extension cords can be stored in the "hard duct" space when underway.
Pics as I progress... I guess I should start a thread on the project.
Thanks to everyone for your inspiration and ideas.
Dale

Attachment 26849

[Robert Johans]

HI Mike,
Thanks for the info... I did consider adding the reflectix as a first layer, but I think it might make the edge too thick, or look "lumpy"... I do plan on making inserts out of it for the windows.
I will look for a thin indoor outdoor carpet... I thought there was a specific product... I've seen on walls as a sound treatment. I'll post if I find it. Right now, I'm trying to seal all the leaks before I start installing the new stuff. Photos as I progress.
Best Regards
Dale

I hope it's not too late to jump in, but here are my two-cents about the reflectix. If you're concerned about the edges feeling/looking too bulky, simply cut the material an inch or so short of the edge, then run a blade through the last row/column of bubbles. This collapsed set of bubbles helps taper the refectix down to the level of your walls, etc. I used this technique with much success in my Perris pacer resto.

Here you can see a couple edges covered with trim...under this is the refectix using the tapering trick. Works great.

[David Morgan]

I showed up there to pick it up and the guy was squirting silicone around the front window and had not removed it...

I wonder if it was the same guy that "Fixed my front window?"

[Dale A Smith]

I hope it's not too late to jump in, but here are my two-cents about the reflectix. If you're concerned about the edges feeling/looking too bulky, simply cut the material an inch or so short of the edge, then run a blade through the last row/column of bubbles. This collapsed set of bubbles helps taper the refectix down to the level of your walls, etc. I used this technique with much success in my Perris pacer resto.

Here you can see a couple edges covered with trim...under this is the refectix using the tapering trick. Works great.

That sounds like it should work great... THANKS!
Dale