Cargo carrier on back of 13ft Scamp - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 09-29-2016, 06:53 AM   #15
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Gilles's Avatar
Name: Gilles
Trailer: Bigfoot 15B17G, 1986, towed with Dodge Journey 2012, 3.6 L., 6 speeds.
Posts: 455
Originally Posted by tdkosta View Post
Thanks for the advice, I will definitely have to make a few test runs and be mindful of the weight added. I'll post some pictures too.
You have these instructions ?

It' a good reference...

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Old 09-29-2016, 10:09 AM   #16
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Casita Greg's Avatar
Name: Greg
Trailer: 2008 Casita 17' SD
Posts: 798
Originally Posted by creidenouer View Post

I 've been thinking of all the ways to get more cargo space and your post certainly got me pointed in a direction that this is the way to go for me. I have a couple questions and appreciate all the help.

Which version of the Stowaway do you have... the smaller box or the larger one? Also, did you wire the lights up? If so, how do you do that?


Hi Chris,
The Stow-Away box I bought is the 49" long model. As to the mounting bracket, I opted for the upturned goose-neck "fixed" one as opposed to the swing-out version. It gives you a little more "angle of departure" clearance room to keep from bottoming out in a ditch or gulley because the box sits higher. Just my personal choice, but I suppose either one would work alright.

The box I use: (Link):
The mount I use: (Link):

I wired up the Stow-Away's tail lights by tapping into the trailer's wiring bundle, (which runs under the rear toe board at the back of the trailer,) to pick up the lines feeding the lights. I drilled a hole down through the floor and ran a 4-Pin flat lead trailer light pigtail out the bottom to supply the power to the lights in the Stow-Away box. Feed the pigtail harness up from the bottom so you can drill a smaller hole, (and seal it when you're done,) but I would recommend drilling the hole from inside the trailer to the bottom outside, so as not to drill into any wiring, as could happen if you were to drill blindly up from the bottom. The wires you will want to pick out from the bundle are these. Do not rely on standard trailer wiring charts, because the Casita wire colors you'll want are as I show below.

TRAILER------------FUNCTION--------------4-PIN CONNECTOR
RED----------------LEFT TURN/BRAKE LT.----------------YELLOW
BROWN------------RIGHT TURN/BRAKE LT.--------------GREEN

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Old 09-29-2016, 10:39 AM   #17
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Name: Chris
Trailer: Casita
Posts: 2
@ honda03842 thanks for all of those ideas. Gives me MORE to think about as I find I'm building a bigger trailer than I bought! very helpful

@ Gilles Thanks, I had seen it. Once I figure my final load (water, contents, etc), the weight will usu be very similar each trip. Thus, I had decided not to get a scale but manually add up the additional contents (from the out of the factory/extras added Casita) and do the math. If anyone sees a flaw in that, let me know. I have a V8 tundra and the trailer has felt very stable thus far.

@ Casita Greg Thank you for the additional information. This is going to help me big time getting something like this rigged up. Really appreciate it.
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Old 09-29-2016, 04:19 PM   #18
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Name: Norm and Ginny
Trailer: Scamp 16
Posts: 7,085

We used a Casita 16 for a year and there is a lot of space in side where one can improve 'storage ability' as well as outside.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Fiberglass RV mobile app

Norm and Ginny

2014 Honda Odyssey
1991 Scamp 16
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