Cargo carrier on back of 13ft Scamp - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-29-2016, 06:53 AM   #15
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Name: Gilles
Trailer: Bigfoot 15B17G, 1986.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdkosta View Post
Thanks for the advice, I will definitely have to make a few test runs and be mindful of the weight added. I'll post some pictures too.
You have these instructions ?

https://www.etrailer.com/faq-how-to-...ue-weight.aspx

It' a good reference...
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Old 09-29-2016, 10:09 AM   #16
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Name: Greg
Trailer: 2008 Casita 17 SD
Washington
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Originally Posted by creidenouer View Post
Greg,

I 've been thinking of all the ways to get more cargo space and your post certainly got me pointed in a direction that this is the way to go for me. I have a couple questions and appreciate all the help.

Which version of the Stowaway do you have... the smaller box or the larger one? Also, did you wire the lights up? If so, how do you do that?

Thanks!

Chris
Hi Chris,
The Stow-Away box I bought is the 49" long model. As to the mounting bracket, I opted for the upturned goose-neck "fixed" one as opposed to the swing-out version. It gives you a little more "angle of departure" clearance room to keep from bottoming out in a ditch or gulley because the box sits higher. Just my personal choice, but I suppose either one would work alright.

The box I use: (Link): https://www.stowaway2.com/max-cargo-box-white
The mount I use: (Link): https://www.stowaway2.com/fixed-hitch-frame

I wired up the Stow-Away's tail lights by tapping into the trailer's wiring bundle, (which runs under the rear toe board at the back of the trailer,) to pick up the lines feeding the lights. I drilled a hole down through the floor and ran a 4-Pin flat lead trailer light pigtail out the bottom to supply the power to the lights in the Stow-Away box. Feed the pigtail harness up from the bottom so you can drill a smaller hole, (and seal it when you're done,) but I would recommend drilling the hole from inside the trailer to the bottom outside, so as not to drill into any wiring, as could happen if you were to drill blindly up from the bottom. The wires you will want to pick out from the bundle are these. Do not rely on standard trailer wiring charts, because the Casita wire colors you'll want are as I show below.

TRAILER------------FUNCTION--------------4-PIN CONNECTOR
WHITE--------------------GROUND-----------------------WHITE
GREEN--------------TAIL/RUNNING/LIC.-----------------BROWN
RED----------------LEFT TURN/BRAKE LT.----------------YELLOW
BROWN------------RIGHT TURN/BRAKE LT.--------------GREEN
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Old 09-29-2016, 10:39 AM   #17
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Name: Chris
Trailer: Casita
California
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@ honda03842 thanks for all of those ideas. Gives me MORE to think about as I find I'm building a bigger trailer than I bought! very helpful

@ Gilles Thanks, I had seen it. Once I figure my final load (water, contents, etc), the weight will usu be very similar each trip. Thus, I had decided not to get a scale but manually add up the additional contents (from the out of the factory/extras added Casita) and do the math. If anyone sees a flaw in that, let me know. I have a V8 tundra and the trailer has felt very stable thus far.

@ Casita Greg Thank you for the additional information. This is going to help me big time getting something like this rigged up. Really appreciate it.
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Old 09-29-2016, 04:19 PM   #18
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Name: Norm and Ginny
Trailer: Scamp 16
Florida
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Chris,

We used a Casita 16 for a year and there is a lot of space in side where one can improve 'storage ability' as well as outside.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Fiberglass RV mobile app
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Old 08-28-2017, 11:37 AM   #19
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Name: Chris
Trailer: Casita
California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casita Greg View Post
Hi Chris,
The Stow-Away box I bought is the 49" long model. As to the mounting bracket, I opted for the upturned goose-neck "fixed" one as opposed to the swing-out version. It gives you a little more "angle of departure" clearance room to keep from bottoming out in a ditch or gulley because the box sits higher. Just my personal choice, but I suppose either one would work alright.

The box I use: (Link): https://www.stowaway2.com/max-cargo-box-white
The mount I use: (Link): https://www.stowaway2.com/fixed-hitch-frame

I wired up the Stow-Away's tail lights by tapping into the trailer's wiring bundle, (which runs under the rear toe board at the back of the trailer,) to pick up the lines feeding the lights. I drilled a hole down through the floor and ran a 4-Pin flat lead trailer light pigtail out the bottom to supply the power to the lights in the Stow-Away box. Feed the pigtail harness up from the bottom so you can drill a smaller hole, (and seal it when you're done,) but I would recommend drilling the hole from inside the trailer to the bottom outside, so as not to drill into any wiring, as could happen if you were to drill blindly up from the bottom. The wires you will want to pick out from the bundle are these. Do not rely on standard trailer wiring charts, because the Casita wire colors you'll want are as I show below.

TRAILER------------FUNCTION--------------4-PIN CONNECTOR
WHITE--------------------GROUND-----------------------WHITE
GREEN--------------TAIL/RUNNING/LIC.-----------------BROWN
RED----------------LEFT TURN/BRAKE LT.----------------YELLOW
BROWN------------RIGHT TURN/BRAKE LT.--------------GREEN

Greg, I'm finally getting this Wednesday and I was looking at the wiring. Do I need a converter to split the turn signal/brake? It looks from reading other posts you did use one of these. Thanks again!
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Old 08-28-2017, 12:18 PM   #20
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Name: Greg
Trailer: 2008 Casita 17 SD
Washington
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Because I originally towed with my 2004 Nissan Frontier, I did have to add a tail light converter to convert the truck's wiring to properly operate the trailer's lights, (the tail light wiring converters are available off the rack at NAPA, and probably at most auto parts places,) but after that, I didn't have to add any additional wiring converter inside the trailer when I wired up the Stow-Away box's wiring to the 4-Pin connector I installed to tie into the rear wire bundle along the back wall of the trailer under the toe board. (See my wiring guide I posted a few posts back for the color code.)

Now, my wife just bought a new 2016 Chevy Silverado Crew Cab 4X4 with the "trailer tow package," and I didn't have to add any wiring converter to her truck's tail light wiring. Just plugged the trailer's plug into the 7-Pin Bargman on her truck and walked around to do a light check, and everything worked fine without adding anything extra.

Since I don't know what your tow vehicle is, I can only say that some vehicles may need a converter (mounted under the truck) and some don't. I guess if the trailer lights are working fine right now, then you won't need to add a converter.
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Old 08-28-2017, 12:49 PM   #21
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Name: Chris
Trailer: Casita
California
Posts: 4
Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Casita Greg;[URL="javascript:dialecticDial('658880');"
658880[/URL]]Because I originally towed with my 2004 Nissan Frontier, I did have to add a tail light converter to convert the truck's wiring to properly operate the trailer's lights, (the tail light wiring converters are available off the rack at NAPA, and probably at most auto parts places,) but after that, I didn't have to add any additional wiring converter inside the trailer when I wired up the Stow-Away box's wiring to the 4-Pin connector I installed to tie into the rear wire bundle along the back wall of the trailer under the toe board. (See my wiring guide I posted a few posts back for the color code.)

Now, my wife just bought a new 2016 Chevy Silverado Crew Cab 4X4 with the "trailer tow package," and I didn't have to add any wiring converter to her truck's tail light wiring. Just plugged the trailer's plug into the 7-Pin Bargman on her truck and walked around to do a light check, and everything worked fine without adding anything extra.

Since I don't know what your tow vehicle is, I can only say that some vehicles may need a converter (mounted under the truck) and some don't. I guess if the trailer lights are working fine right now, then you won't need to add a converter.

Sounds like I should be Ok w/out. Thanks so much for all the tips: really appreciate it and can't wait to use the Stowaway.
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