carpet vs laminate - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 02-28-2007, 07:23 PM   #15
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Sandra Lair's Avatar
Trailer: 1982 Scamp 13 ft
Posts: 379
We ripped out the lovely original gold shag carpet from our 82 Scamp & installed carpet tiles. Even though it may be a little more trouble to clean, I really prefer carpet under my feet. When we're camping, I just sweep it every day and vacuum when we get home. The best part is that we have extra tiles if one gets stained or damaged.

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Old 02-28-2007, 08:41 PM   #16
Name: Owen
Trailer: 1980 Dolphin 14 ft
Posts: 99

I have just torn out our shag as well, and was all set to put in laminate. Then I was told that moisture was not laminate's best friend. The flooring expert at Home Depot suggested that I check out an oak plank tile called trafficmaster which comes in a 36" by 4" tile. It comes in hickory or light oak color and is so easy to work with. I am not a gifted handyman by any stretch of imagination but I found the installation was very easy. You cut it with a utility knife and a straightedge. I will post pictures of the finished results as soon as i unpack the rig in the coming weeks.

When you retire, everyday becomes Saturday!
Owen & Rosemary
Formerly - 14'Dolphin, Looking for another!
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Old 03-01-2007, 08:55 PM   #17
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Trailer: 74 13 ft Boler and 79 17 ft Boler
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Apparently if you use a laminate in a kitchen, you should glue it together with a wood glue and this seals the floor isn`t supposed to swell like an unglued one....usually it takes a fair amount of water to swell the unglued ones anyway......damp mop usually doesn`t affect it at all......worst thing are leaking dishwashers that leak under the floor and attack it from underneath and you don`t notice the leak until it`s too late....something like a stickie trailer, LOL.......Benny
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Old 03-01-2007, 09:17 PM   #18
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Trailer: 73 Boler
Posts: 159
I put laminate in the boler last year because it was cheap. Laminate stores always have specials on and you can pick it up for a song. I would'nt recommend it in a trailer. If you get it wet you have to immediately wipe it up. We were able to keep everything under control over the summer. BUT. After leaving the boler sit over the winter i decided to check in on the old boler and to my surprise the whole floor swelled from winter condensation. It seems to be fine now though. After this summer i may rip it out and put in vinyl. Too much hassle to try and keep it perfect. Summer camping is supposed to be about relaxing and not worrying about your floor swelling up.
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Old 03-01-2007, 10:18 PM   #19
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Trailer: 2005 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 100
We bought our Scamp used and were delighted to find out that the original owner went with vinyl instead of carpet.

We bought some by-the-foot carpet runner from Home Depot and put it down between the gaucho and the dinette. It was inexpensive and feels nice and warm underfoot. As an added plus, we can just roll it up and store it away if we prefer the coolness of vinyl during the hot summer months.

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Old 03-01-2007, 10:26 PM   #20
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Name: Greg
Trailer: 2015 Escape 19
Posts: 1,833
In Phoenix if you spill on your laminate floor, no problem. By the time you bend down to wipe it up it's evaporated.

I'm going with Cherry laminate as soon as I can find some that is being discounted.
Scamp Owners International
2015 Escape 19 & 1997 Scamp 19
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Old 03-01-2007, 10:30 PM   #21
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Name: Per
Trailer: 2000 Burro 17 ft Widebody towed by Touareg TDI
Posts: 863
We have carpeting for the following reasons: Warm to step on with bare feet. Cut and bound so that it can be yanked out or the floor underneath inspected in a matter of seconds. Can be used as a pattern and new carpet installed cheaply and easily (learned how to bind it).

Considered other flooring, but the following convinced me: we had a problem with water getting into the interior through refrigerator and heater vents. After exhaustive and difficult efforts at tracing the leaks down they were finally fixed, but when it was leaking it would come in underneath the carpeting and stay without us knowing about it. I reasoned that ANY flooring would have to be easily and quickly inspected so that no moisture could be trapped and lead to rot, mold, and mildew. By cutting the carpet at one strategic place (and underneath another section used as a throw rug to hide the seam) I can lift the thing for inspection in a second.

One extra piece is a large one on top inside the door, held in place with the threshhold. All we do is lift it up and shake it out the door while still attached, letting it fall back in place. We also have a 12v vacuum installed under the kitchen sink area. All we do is drag out a length of hose, stick it in the wall, turn the switch, and vacuum the carpeting.
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Old 03-02-2007, 05:40 AM   #22
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Trailer: 1989 Casita Spirit Deluxe
Posts: 2,055
The Fiber Stream has carpet on the floor... which was installed before the walls and cabinetry were put in. The manufacturer did not have to cut and fit it that way, but I'll have to remove most of the interior to get it out. Has anyone added insulation below the floor? I too would rather have a colorful vinyl that can be spilled upon.

I used a utilitiy knife and cut my carpet off at the cabinets, then installed my vinyl floor. The carpet that wasn't exposed is actually in good condition and I really like having it in there. Unless you've had a leak and the carpet inside is rotten or smells, there's no reason not to leave it. I use throw rugs on top of the vinyl. Actually, I installed new carpet on the raised (non-walking areas) and vinyl on the traffic areas. I haven't regretted it one bit.
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Old 03-02-2007, 02:45 PM   #23
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vinyl The best deal going.
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Old 03-02-2007, 03:14 PM   #24
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Trailer: 1970 Boler
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good old peal and stick tiles with new aluminum molding to match. I get the most compliments on my floor out of the entire trailer.
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Old 03-02-2007, 03:27 PM   #25
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Name: Ches
Trailer: 1992 Kustom Koach 17 FT
British Columbia
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What i see here is that there are pros and cons to different types of flooring.I think the solution is to go with what you consider to be the BEST FOR YOU.Each of us all have differnt ideas and different needs to suit ourselfs.Good luck in your choice.
Retired Underground Coal Miner.
Served in Canadian Army (1PPCLI)
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Old 03-02-2007, 03:46 PM   #26
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Name: Rob
Trailer: 1980 Bolar 1700
Posts: 92
Since my Boler 1700 was a total gut and floor replacement I used the Rustoleum Tintable Epoxy Basement floor coating. Because I had significant water damage that had leaked under the vinyl flooring and rotted the floor, I wanted to make sure the plywood was sealed tight. After glassing the edges of the new Plywood to the shell I flared it out and skim coated the floor with leveling compound mixed specifically for application over wood. Then mixed up the 2-part water based epoxy and rolled on a really heavy coat with a 1" nap roller and sprinkked the the color chips. I used the whole bag of chips so the floor has almost a terrrazo effect. It came out better than I expected and the floor is pretty much bullet proof now. The dogs haven't made a dent in it. I was originally shooting for a waterproof coating that I would eventually put some other flooring over but I will probably keep it for a while now.
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Old 03-02-2007, 07:42 PM   #27
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Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
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I used the Rustoleum Tintable Epoxy Basement floor coating.
Rob, That's EXACTLY what I want I so badly want some color in my trailer and I've seen websites that sell the chips in many, many different colors

What problems did you run into? Would you do it again? Is the floor now, hard to maintain?

oooooh, it's exciting to know someone has already done this
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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Old 03-03-2007, 01:56 PM   #28
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Name: Rob
Trailer: 1980 Bolar 1700
Posts: 92
Rob, That's EXACTLY what I want I so badly want some color in my trailer and I've seen websites that sell the chips in many, many different colors

What problems did you run into? Would you do it again? Is the floor now, hard to maintain?

oooooh, it's exciting to know someone has already done this

Hey Donna,

There really were no big problems. As I mentioned previously, since the garage floor paints are specifically designed for concrete. Concrete in a trailer you say??? Well most floor leveling compounds are Portland cement based. I used the 10 lb. box of Henry 547 Universal Patch and Skimcoat. Instead of water use the 546 FeatherEdge Additive this makes the mix more flexible and provides better adhesion to flexible surfaces like wood, vinyl, etc. I then started in the back corner and laid down about a 1/8-1/4" layer with a finishing trowel. I let it dry for about a week and then went in with a disk sander to knock off any edges I missed when toweling. Vacuum clean and then mix up the Epoxy according to the instructions. You will only need to mix half of the batch so you might want to convince someone else to do their trailer as well and split the cost. Roll out about a 3' x 3' area and throw on the chips then move on. The key is to keep a wet edge and really lay on the epoxy thick. The vinyl chips sink into the surface of the epoxy but if you are too thin they won't bond well. Once the whole thing cured for a week I went over the whole floor with a 6" putty knife to knock off any edges and loose chips. I then put down three coats of semi-gloss water based polyurethane. This really sealed the chips in and gave the floor a soother feel under foot.

Would I do it again? Sure it worked out really well and I am now in the process of prepping my basement for the same treatment.

Maintenance is no different than a poly'ed wood floor. Damp mop and you're done.

Things to remember:

Before skimcoating make sure the floor is free of loose material, soaps, waxes, etc.

When skimcoating, make small batches. You start with pudding and lay it down but your real smoothing comes when it starts setting up and if itís setting on the floor, its setting in your bucket. Also if you get too far ahead of yourself then you have to get into the wet material to smooth the back.

Take your time when smoothing and blending edges. You can sand it smooth but it is a lot of work and itís much easier to smooth it when itís wet.

When you do the epoxy, make sure the trailer floor is level. I put a four foot level on the floor inside. This will ensure that the epoxy doesn't run.

When putting the chips down its kind of a sidearm broadcast throw I concentrated on the major traffic areas and put less down in areas that would be hidden by cabinets.

Regrets, My only regret is that they didn't have the tintable base epoxy kit when I did mine. Because all of the cabinets are wood toned I put the grey down which came with blue and white chips. It looks nice but in an ideal world it would have been nice to have some choices. If you go to the Rustoleum website you can see the 20 different tints.

That's about it. This is not the cheapest solution out there but it was what I wanted for my trailer. And for those of you concerned with weight, the leveling compound and epoxy combined is about half of what the same square footage in vinyl flooring weighs.

Good luck.


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