Cheap 12 volt LEDs - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-30-2011, 11:07 PM   #15
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Byron -

Is it just me or is it time for you to move to Washington, D.C. and join the Boener team? ...Post a question - get straight answers, reject all constructive comments and conventional wisdom?

Can't speak for everyone, but next time I may hesitate to respond...

BTW - my tail lights are safely bright - not 'too bright' and they are DOT certified.

Happy trails!
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Old 07-30-2011, 11:18 PM   #16
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woow doggie. I think Byron asked a valid question.. why? All the lenses on my trailer are original and old. His trailer is only five years old and he keeps it spotlessly clean. So do I, but not so the previous owners.... at least not the cloudy lenses. I can, and will, only answer for MYSELF. For somewhere around $50-60 I can change everything on the outside to LEDs. Will that mean my trailer is safer to tow? Maybe not, but I can afford it and want to be seen, especially in that "just before the sun goes down" time. Pitch black, nearly any light is bright... not so late afternoon, early evening. YMMV
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Old 07-31-2011, 01:30 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
I guess manufacturers of tugs are changing to LEDs because there's very little gain? Check out the new crop of vehicles, most have all gone to LEDs for tail lights. If you don't want to change your trailer to LEDs, then don't. The newer LEDs have a much longer life. I wouldn't compare OLDER truck trailers to anything that's been made in the last couple of years.

I'm looking to change the tail lights and markers to sealed units... waterproof. Since they're manufacturered as tail lights and markers, it's doubtful they'd be too bright for DOT.
The newer vehicles also have electronic circuitry to control brightness according to ambient light. Not quite the same thing as replace incandescent with very bright LEDs.
LEDs have an indefinite theoretic life. With manufacturing flaws they don't achieve that, but the newer one last a very long time. Another reason they're using them in newer vehicles reduces copper usage. They can use smaller wire.
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Old 07-31-2011, 01:31 AM   #18
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My original post had nothing to do with brake lights, I am referring to using them to replace INTERIOR bulbs, i.e. ambient light, the pros are as bright if not brighter than incandescent bulbs, whiter light, longer life, and much lower power consumption. The post I made had nothing to do with brake or turn signal lights although you could replace them as well but I won't do that unless mine start to burn out.
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Old 07-31-2011, 01:44 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Bill Robison View Post
Byron -

Is it just me or is it time for you to move to Washington, D.C. and join the Boener team? ...Post a question - get straight answers, reject all constructive comments and conventional wisdom?

Can't speak for everyone, but next time I may hesitate to respond...

BTW - my tail lights are safely bright - not 'too bright' and they are DOT certified.

Happy trails!

Simple answer it's you...

A bit about my background and a suggestion that you keep negative comments until you have the full story

First.. My question was to Tim as to his reasoning. I got a lot of other responses. I tried to answer each response with factual information.

Second.. My background. Retired Electronic Engineer that spent several years working with automotive electronics and electrical systems. Mainly in the heavy duty trucking. I designed several electrical parts that are now on the road in some trucks. One was an LED readout that had a light detector that dimmed the readout when it got darker. Otherwise it would blind the driver at night.

Your apology is accepted.
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Old 07-31-2011, 01:45 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Panoz77 View Post
My original post had nothing to do with brake lights, I am referring to using them to replace INTERIOR bulbs, i.e. ambient light, the pros are as bright if not brighter than incandescent bulbs, whiter light, longer life, and much lower power consumption. The post I made had nothing to do with brake or turn signal lights although you could replace them as well but I won't do that unless mine start to burn out.
Yup, and my question was originally to Tim who said he was replacing exterior lights.
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Old 07-31-2011, 01:48 AM   #21
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There are several reasons to switch to LED exterior lights for tail,brake,marker. First is safety, a LED set up will be brighter and more importantly will ignite or turn on quicker. There are no bulbs that need to turn on and although it is only a millisecond, sometimes that millisecond can mean avoiding an accident. In addition with LED's, your alternator in your tow will not have to work as hard and you will have more juice available for charging your batteries. Finally, remember you should use LED's that are the same color of the lens in the light. Red for red, yellow for yellow. You should not use white led's in these lights.
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Old 07-31-2011, 07:29 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
I seen people doing and never asked. Would you mind answering what the reason is for changing taillights and marker lights to LEDs?
Byron, Just so I don't have to go around every now and then , pulling the lens off and moving the bulb around to get a good contact. To me its worth it not having to tweak these things, and to know that they are working while driving and not off or flickering . I had led's on a truck camper I had and I loved them for those reasons.
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Old 07-31-2011, 08:32 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
FYI.. Not all diodes are created equal. If they're not ruggedized they won't last as long as incandescent. Look as some of the older truck trailers with dead LEDs.
Maybe you could explain how a LED is "ruggedized". They make incandescent light bulbs more rugged by increasing the strength or thickness of the filament or supporting the filament better or using a filament rated for higher voltage at a slightly lower voltage. This works because the filament is supported in a cavity and can move when bumped or shaken. LED's are not made that way, they do not have parts that can be shaken around, and do not have a filament to burn out. They work by movement of electrons within a solid semiconductor material. Short of cracking or breaking the plastic semiconductor material from impact, shaking will not break anything in the LED. Vibration could affect the connection of the LED to the trailer wiring, the same as with an incandescent bulb, but that would not have anything to do with the LED being "ruggedized".

I see lots of LED traffic signal lights at intersections with some of the LED's not working and they do not go over bumps and get shaken like truck tail lights.

Interior LED lights are attached to the trailer just like exterior LED lights and would be subject to the same vibrations, why do they not need to be "ruggedized"?
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Old 07-31-2011, 10:18 AM   #24
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Bought LEDs

I just bought 8 1156s.

One question, do you know how much current the bulbs draw?

Norm
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Old 07-31-2011, 10:24 AM   #25
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Norm,
this info is from SuperbrightLEds website, current draw is in milliamps
24-LED 1156/1157 Bulb
SPECIFICATIONS

Part NO Emitting Color Operating Voltage Range
Unit: VDC Current Draw @ 12 Volts
Unit: mA Luminous Flux
Unit: lumens Dominant Wavelength / CCT*
UNIT: nm / K Beam Pattern
Unit: degrees Price Each**
Unit: USD
1156-W24 Cool White 9~14.8 75 30 8500 18/100 12.99
1157-W24 Cool White 9~14.8 24/ 61 15 / 45 8500 18/100 12.99
1156-R24 Red 9~14.8 120 40 628 18/100 7.49
1157-R24 Red 9~14.8 28/82 20 / 60 628 18/100 7.49
1156-A24 Amber 9~14.8 90 50 593 18/100 7.49
1157-A24 Amber 9~14.8 24/82 22 / 66 593 18/100 7.49
Operating Temperature Range: -30Cto+85C --- Storage Temperature Range: -40C to +100C --- Up to 10,000 hour life span
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Old 07-31-2011, 10:47 AM   #26
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The complete units are sealed moisture tight and don't corrode.
The above may not apply to retro fit bulbs. When retrofitting, clean the vehicle electrical connection then apply a dielectric grease to the connection and bulb contacts to prevent corrosion.

They R Especially perfect for boat trailers.

Harbor freight has inexpensive units.
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Old 07-31-2011, 11:17 AM   #27
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Well my thanks to you, James, for the heads up to a really good deal on the bulbs.
You've pulled me back from the brink of discarding the perfectly sound fixtures in my trailer!
Since lights are the only electricals in my trailer, I don't worry much about current draw. But the heat put out by incandescents is sure hard on the plastic covers on my lights.I thought cooler lights would be better.
I'd just "missed out" on an E-bay listing for whole replacement fixtures that were "cheap" at $15.00 apiece.
First time I ever won by losing!


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Old 07-31-2011, 11:42 AM   #28
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Hi Norm and Ginny:

I got the other two 1156s. Sold out on that critter. I also purchased (4) 36 smd LEDs from another epeddler for 36.99. Those are for the hooded swivels in the back (PO was running 1156 incandescents rather than the 1141s called out on the shield; lot of heat). The other two are for dome lights up front. Not fiddling with shower dome as PO sealed it shut; likewise exterior "porch" light. I hope real longevity is close to "theoretical"!

Not replacing running lights for the major reason cited by Byron K.--no draw on house battery. As for bayonet bulbs jiggling loose, it's the base and not filament vs. diode that causes this so a retrofit with just bulbs won't cure the off with the lens and check routine. I don't feel I can afford dedicated fixtures and bulbs for a few milliseconds of early warning on brake lights which won't do a thing to fend off the inebriate, over-the-limit sumbitch ready to punch my ticket.

jack
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