Cheap 12 volt LEDs - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-31-2011, 11:53 AM   #29
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"Not replacing running lights for the major reason cited by Bryan K.--no draw on house battery"
There is some flawed logic here, yes the exterior lights are not affected while camping. But how many times has someone here pulled their camper, stopped for the night and had a dead trailer/starting battery next day. Some tow vehicles, particularly cars do not have high capacity alternators. While towing with your lights on there is a large drain from your trailer for the exterior lights, charging the battery, running your refer as wells your tow vehicle light demands. By eliminating a substantial draw with LED's there is more juice left to handle the other demands. With 4 tail lights and 4 running lights you may save 10 a/h which will be put back into your battery.
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Old 07-31-2011, 12:44 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
"Not replacing running lights for the major reason cited by Bryan K.--no draw on house battery"
There is some flawed logic here, yes the exterior lights are not affected while camping. But how many times has someone here pulled their camper, stopped for the night and had a dead battery next day. Some tow vehicles, particularly cars do not have high capacity alternators. While towing with your lights on there is a large drain from your trailer for the exterior lights, charging the battery, running your refer as wells your tow vehicle light demands. By eliminating a substantial draw with LED's there is more juice left to handle the other demands. With 4 tail lights and 4 running lights you may save 10 a/h which will be put back into your battery.
Jim, while you may be right about the total draw at nite, it's not my habit (I actually don't have habits as haven't trailed long enuf to have) to run with lights in bright sunlight and I haven't had occasion to run for extended periods at nite, so I'd say it's a special case of mute flawed logic for me. There could be other possible reasons for dead towmotor battery in the light of morn--for instance dome lights turned on to enable getting something out of tug and left on. Even a neophyte like myself is aware of the draw on vehicle battery if left connected to trailer system when not running. Is it only neophytes who forget to unplug? Do all old pros always run with a starter battery in tiptop condition? Almost any continuous draw is enuf to kill a weak starter battery so all occurences of dead batt wouldn't be automatically attributable to combination of refer and running light load. It could be bad sleeping habits that broke the camel's back. Logic generally leads to most probable cause and a number of additional bugs can take shelter under that cabbage leaf.


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Old 07-31-2011, 12:48 PM   #31
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Actually I meant the trailer battery being low since the t/v did not charge it enough, sorry about the vagueness, I'll correct it now. Actually on second thought, you brought up a valid point, if the draw is too high, you may not be charging the starter battery either. Without a battery isolator installed this could be also happening. I wonder how many of us have one of those?
Either way, either battery, if you reduce the draw, you are better off. JMHO...
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Old 07-31-2011, 01:58 PM   #32
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1141

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I got the other two 1156s. Sold out on that critter. I also purchased (4) 36 smd LEDs from another epeddler for 36.99. Those are for the hooded swivels in the back (PO was running 1156 incandescents rather than the 1141s called out on the shield; lot of heat). The other two are for dome lights up front. Not fiddling with shower dome as PO sealed it shut; likewise exterior "porch" light. I hope real longevity is close to "theoretical"!
jack
I just checked my Scamp and the light fixtures have 1141s. Are these the same base as the 1156? You mention heat. Does one generate more heat than the other?
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Old 07-31-2011, 02:06 PM   #33
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Ken, yes they go into the same fixture, I actually had 1141's in my Scamp also.
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Old 07-31-2011, 02:43 PM   #34
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Thanks Tim.

I'm considering LEDs for interior lights and yard light (not for running lights) and see some 1156 LEDs with 102 SMD, some with 68 SMD. I'm assuming that 102, 68, etc. are the number of diodes. Any thoughts on these options? Should one get 102 or are 68s (or less) doing the trick?
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Old 07-31-2011, 02:46 PM   #35
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Charging Trailer Battery

We regularly charge the trailer battery from the tow vehicle though it is not our primary battery charging method, that's the role of our converter.

Our toad charging process is simple. I put a lighted dashboard switch in series with the wire going to charge the trailer's battery.

I only turn the switch to on after we're traveling down the road and turn it off before we stop. The switch, when on, is not easy to overlook because it has a bright BLUE LED. We have never left it on when stopped.

Even though we always use the switch, we always unplug the trailer from the tow vehicle at night, just a good habit.

We do not run the fridge on 12 VDC when driving; powering the fridge from 12VDC requires way too much current.

A battery killer when camping are the lights. Traditional incandescent trailer lights require a different philosophy than home lights. I've seen RVers who at night always have all their lights on. Our trailer contains 6 single bulb lights, that represents a 12 amp draw on a battery, sufficient to significantly drain your batteries. Definitely the reason incandescents are being replaced by LEDs.

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Old 07-31-2011, 02:48 PM   #36
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Thanks Tim.

I'm considering LEDs for interior lights and yard light (not for running lights) and see some 1156 LEDs with 102 SMD, some with 68 SMD. I'm assuming that 102, 68, etc. are the number of diodes. Any thoughts on these options? Should one get 102 or are 68s (or less) doing the trick?
The pics James posted are 68's- they look pretty bright to me!
Brighter than my incandescents, anyway
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Old 07-31-2011, 03:28 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by kdhanso View Post
Thanks Tim.

I'm considering LEDs for interior lights and yard light (not for running lights) and see some 1156 LEDs with 102 SMD, some with 68 SMD. I'm assuming that 102, 68, etc. are the number of diodes. Any thoughts on these options? Should one get 102 or are 68s (or less) doing the trick?
The ones I bought were the 68, that refers to the # of LEDs on the bulb, and yes the 68 are plenty bright. I just posted some other alternatives. It's funny the shipping on the 1157s was $2.59 but the shipping on the virtually identical 1156s is like $3.79, there is no weight difference, maybe the seller would be willing to reduce shipping if contacted prior to a purchase.

I might also take a shot on these bulbs which I though might distribute/diffuse the light better, they have the lenses over the diodes.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1156-...d=251707611552
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Old 07-31-2011, 03:40 PM   #38
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Hi, James
Thanks again!

Re. shipping and handling...
One bulb probably costs the seller more to buy than the other, and his total charges reflect that.
I think it's a bit of e-bay semantics, really- not that it matters to me!
They're still the best and cheapest option out there.
This "explanation" of charges is at the very bottom of the seller's pages.

As there are weight and cubage restrictions on international order, we are unable to offer you any discount or combined shipping for multiple items. All items are shipped separately. There is no local pickup service, no third party shipping carrier will be used.

Francesca
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Old 07-31-2011, 03:50 PM   #39
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The ones I bought were the 68, that refers to the # of LEDs on the bulb, and yes the 68 are plenty bright.
Thanks. I just ordered some 68s.
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Old 07-31-2011, 04:13 PM   #40
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Ken, I would think that the 68's will do you just fine. In fact I have some with less, so I would think 68 should be nice and bright. Let us know when you get them.
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Old 07-31-2011, 04:15 PM   #41
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Ken, I would think that the 68's will do you just fine. In fact I have some with less, so I would think 68 should be nice and bright. Let us know when you get them.
Thanks. Will do.
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Old 07-31-2011, 04:29 PM   #42
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I just checked my Scamp and the light fixtures have 1141s. Are these the same base as the 1156? You mention heat. Does one generate more heat than the other?
IIRC (a big IF), the 1141 is rated 18w and the 1156 28w. There's also an 1139 which is even lower wattage. Same 20mm base which I think is referred to as a BA19s. Maybe the wattage on the filament bulbs is academic if the LEDs are becoming affordable. I have no idea how many of these little lightning bugs it takes for parity with a particular incandescent. I do know that the "Superbright" internet seller replied to me that his 36smd was higher lumens than his 45smd. I made this make sense to ignorant me by noting that the itty bits on the 36 are larger than those of the 45 so total light-emitting area should mean more light. I don't if bigger is better or more of them is better; merely guessing. It's a crap shoot as I haven't seen these cylindrical "tower" LEDs locally and it's hard to buy just one of each from Hong Kong.

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