Clever Scamp Mods - Fiberglass RV
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Old 02-27-2012, 07:29 PM   #1
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Name: Norm and Ginny
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Clever Scamp Mods

We're near Carlsbad, NM and the guy across the street has a 1989 Scamp 16 for sale. I posted it on the site and can provide his phone number. I will be posting pictures later.

He has made a number of interesting mods that I intend to copy and will post some of them.
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Old 02-27-2012, 07:33 PM   #2
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Black Tank Flush Mod

The Scamp vents it's black tank via a little vent on the side of the trailer that is riveted in place.

Mike removes all the rivets except the top rivet and replaces the bottom rivet with a screw and nut.

This allows him to turn the little vent and insert a hose to flush the black tank. Simple and clever
Attached Thumbnails
Black Flush.jpg  
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Old 02-27-2012, 08:14 PM   #3
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Now that is interesting Norm!!
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Old 02-27-2012, 08:18 PM   #4
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Hot Water Snack and Drinks table

This mod turns the hot water cover into a small table for drinks and snacks.

It takes the addition of four small holes to the hot water heater and 2 chains.

If the chains are mounted a little inside the cover they will fold inside the cover very neatly when the cover is closed.

If you like an insert can be made to fit inside the cover to eliminate the possibility of dropping something thru the vent hole.
Attached Thumbnails
Htwtr Table.jpg  
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Old 02-27-2012, 08:29 PM   #5
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Magnets

Most Scamp owners wish there was a place to attach things to a wall with a magnet.

On the outside of his bathroom wall he has a calendar held up by a magnet.

The trick is that he glued a like magnet to the inside bathroom wall. Simple and clever.
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Magnet.jpg  
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Old 02-27-2012, 08:37 PM   #6
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Storage Box

A large storage box was created under the rear floor of the Scamp.

The box requires you to get down on the ground to use it but it's functional never the less.

He purchased a large plastic box and lined it with a couple of wood pieces to stiffen it on both long edges.

He used to hinges to mount the box to the bottom of the floor. The box folds down near the bumper.

He uses two hooks to latch it near the bumper.

I know these pictures aren't great but I intend to install one and will provide more detail when I do.
Attached Thumbnails
Str box 1.jpg   Str box 2.jpg  

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Old 02-27-2012, 09:08 PM   #7
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Handle and dead bolt

I really like the handle.

He simply screwed it into the inner fiberglass panel with some fair sized wood screws that only penetrate the inner panel.

The dead bolt mounts in a painted wooden block that is also screwed to the inner fiberglass panel. The block simply provides the appropriate thickness for a normal home dead bolt.
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Handle and dead bolt.jpg  
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Old 02-27-2012, 09:20 PM   #8
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neat mods

Thanks for sharing these
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Old 02-27-2012, 10:56 PM   #9
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I really like the handle.

He simply screwed it into the inner fiberglass panel with some fair sized wood screws that only penetrate the inner panel.
Uhaul uses a plastic insert in the fiberglass wall to put a screw into. I just added two used Scamp wall lights in our Uhaul, and got those inserts in a few different sizes at my local auto parts stores. Bob
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Old 02-28-2012, 07:11 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by honda03842 View Post
This mod turns the hot water cover into a small table for drinks and snacks.

It takes the addition of four small holes to the hot water heater and 2 chains.

If the chains are mounted a little inside the cover they will fold inside the cover very neatly when the cover is closed.

If you like an insert can be made to fit inside the cover to eliminate the possibility of dropping something thru the vent hole.
Plus you can use it as a food warmer!!
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Old 02-28-2012, 08:39 AM   #11
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As to the handle screws and dead bolt screws, I have no idea what makes up the core of a Scamp door. I assume it's two fiberglass panels with foam in the middle.

I expect some one knows.....if soplease post.
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Old 02-29-2012, 10:49 AM   #12
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Norm,
I mounted a larger handle to my scamp door with no regard for backing placement. I think the door core is pretty solid stuff, like mdf or plywood. When I had the door removed to replace the hinge balls it was pretty heavy (dense).

Russ

It could be that the screws were only penetrating a fiberglass skin, but they took up tightly and felt secure.
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Old 02-29-2012, 05:34 PM   #13
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The Scamp door insides is like a press board material, my door was heavy also, from water in door, not from window but from outside latch, everything below that latch was a waterlogged mess.........which leads me to the question on removing or sliding black tank vent aside, what keeps water from finding its way in and onto the floor in that area? mine is riveted and sealed...
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Old 02-29-2012, 06:53 PM   #14
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As to the handle screws and dead bolt screws, I have no idea what makes up the core of a Scamp door. I assume it's two fiberglass panels with foam in the middle.

I expect some one knows.....if soplease post.
I'm planning on replacing the stock scamp latch with one from e-bay. When I peeled back the rat fur in that area the inner door material is 5/8" waferboard same as the floor and bench seats. Chuck
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Old 03-02-2012, 08:33 AM   #15
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As to the handle screws and dead bolt screws, I have no idea what makes up the core of a Scamp door. I assume it's two fiberglass panels with foam in the middle.

I expect some one knows.....if soplease post.
Here is a rebuild of an older model. It's a fun read.

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...oor-41288.html
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Old 03-02-2012, 11:35 AM   #16
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It looks like Scamp could resin coat the core pieces prior to bedding them to the outer skin. The edges may need 2 coats to prevent absorption. After the inner skin is bonded they could drill some drainage holes along the bottom of the inner skin. The door hardware could be bedded in a non-hardening caulking material. No more problems. Raise the price of the trailer $50.00 to cover the cost. Alternately they could substitute a dense closed cell polyurethane foam board which wouldn’t have to be coated, but would cost more than the wood based material.
The heaviness of the door actually aids in closing the door. The weather strip foam resists the closing action, so momentum is your friend. If you constructed a nice tubular aluminum frame you would find difficulty latching the door. Also you would have to add a crossbar to mount your pull handle and backing for latch and hinges. Your overall trailer weight would go down though, which is good.
Sorry for the hijack Norm! Yes, that is a nice door handle.
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Old 03-02-2012, 11:53 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by honda03842 View Post
The Scamp vents it's black tank via a little vent on the side of the trailer that is riveted in place.

Mike removes all the rivets except the top rivet and replaces the bottom rivet with a screw and nut.

This allows him to turn the little vent and insert a hose to flush the black tank. Simple and clever
This looks like a worthwhile mod. He should probably caulk the vent pipe to the trailer skin to keep water out. I wonder if a flexable toilet wand type thing with spray jets would feed down the vent? Rinsing the tank without going into the trailer would be a winner. It could save damage to the ball valve too.
Russ
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Old 03-02-2012, 03:32 PM   #18
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Here is a rebuild of an older model. It's a fun read.

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...oor-41288.html
its a fun read......... until you have to do the rebuild
Tom
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Old 03-02-2012, 05:44 PM   #19
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its a fun read......... until you have to do the rebuild
Tom
Norm asked what's in the door. It seems to cover that. If you have good information on rebuilding a scamp door by all means add to that post. I'm sure folks will appreciate it in the future. Thanks, Raz
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Old 03-02-2012, 07:59 PM   #20
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Norm asked what's in the door. It seems to cover that. If you have good information on rebuilding a scamp door by all means add to that post. I'm sure folks will appreciate it in the future. Thanks, Raz
Robert Johan's of the Egg Plant has posted several PDFs, that people who own Scamps may find helpful: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ods-40235.html Robert posted numerous PDFs in the topic. Check it out.
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