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11-08-2008, 09:48 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trails West Campster 1970
Posts: 3,366
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Quote:
Steve, Thanks for the picture. It IS A PAIN to lower the top and make sure the sides are tucked in. I think I could incorporate the bung cord inside the top. Thanks for the tip
Rick
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Same problem here... with the Campster. If you do figure out how to add the cord let us know. One of these days I might try to figure out a new top but the way it is attached in the Campster does not appear to lend itself to easy replacement.
Bobbie
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12-01-2008, 02:51 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
Posts: 3,008
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Quote:
Same problem here... with the Campster. If you do figure out how to add the cord let us know. One of these days I might try to figure out a new top but the way it is attached in the Campster does not appear to lend itself to easy replacement.
Bobbie
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I had remembered some kind of bungie-type system on the Puck I looked at (aluminum trailer with pop-top section), but hadn't taken any photos. So, when Tilden posted his Puck for sale yesterday I went to look at the photos to take a look at it. Luckily it shows up. I PMed him to ask what it was made of and he said it was like a thick piece of (metal) wire. That jogged my memory and I think that's what was on the Puck I saw as well.
I remember pulling the top down when I looked at it and I don't remember any big hassle with gathering it in, so this must work like a bungie. It's probably easier to do on a round top, of course.
Anyway, I thought I'd post photos in case they might be helpful to some Compact/Campster, etc. owners. I have larger file sizes if those would help anyone.
Raya
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12-02-2008, 12:19 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Compact Jr
Posts: 340
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I ran down to the fabric store today and picked up some 1/8" elastic cord, happened to be black (all they had), bought 24 feet of it (easily 4' overkill), wrapped it around the boot, pulled it tight and knotted the loop. Works so much better, but there's still one edge that wants to stick out. I suspect adjusting where the elastic sits might take care of this.
Steve - on your sisters', will you please check and see what keeps the elastic from creeping? Mine seems to tend toward the bottom of the boot when it's all set up. DOn't know how it'll travel. (CJ's in the garage for the holiday season.)
Jen
__________________
Jen
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"Nowhere to be and all day to get there." - The Bills
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12-05-2008, 02:51 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Trailer: Compact Jr
Posts: 274
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Quote:
Steve - on your sisters', will you please check and see what keeps the elastic from creeping? Mine seems to tend toward the bottom of the boot when it's all set up. DOn't know how it'll travel. (CJ's in the garage for the holiday season.)
Jen
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There's nothing keeping the bungee in place. However, her boot is kind of loose (baggy) and the elastic just naturally gravitates to the center. (Take another look at the picture and I think you'll be able to see what I mean.)
No reason you couldn't stitch a little loop on at each corner to keep the bungee in place. I don't imagine you'd have any leakage worth noticing, and if you did, you could get some of that seam-seal stuff the hikers use and put a bit on.
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08-19-2009, 02:16 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Compact Jr
Posts: 340
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Quote:
I ran down to the fabric store today and picked up some 1/8" elastic cord, happened to be black (all they had), bought 24 feet of it (easily 4' overkill), wrapped it around the boot, pulled it tight and knotted the loop. Works so much better, but there's still one edge that wants to stick out. I suspect adjusting where the elastic sits might take care of this.
Steve - on your sisters', will you please check and see what keeps the elastic from creeping? Mine seems to tend toward the bottom of the boot when it's all set up. DOn't know how it'll travel. (CJ's in the garage for the holiday season.)
Jen
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Seven months later and I'm happy to report the bungee/elastic cord around the outside works WONDERfully for getting my saggy old boot tucked in when I drop the top! I'd LIKE to replace the top, but for now, this is working well. And even once I replace it, I think I'll do the same thing, though incorporate it in a cleaner fashion. The cord has not crept into odd positions as I'd anticipated. A good quick solution. Thanks, Steve (and sister)!
__________________
Jen
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"Nowhere to be and all day to get there." - The Bills
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08-19-2009, 06:51 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Trailer: U-Haul CT13
Posts: 778
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Quote:
Cliff, Its a tuff call either way you deal with it, I'm not standing in front of the old frame to see what you are seeing. But I'm sure some others may have a good idea to help you out. If your like me you want to get away without breaking the bank, so maybe you can just replace some of the real bad pieces. It may not hurt to have a welding guy near you to stop by and take a look. I brought up the galvanized steel because that's what I was going to do when I thought about building a teardrop. Tim
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if you use galv steel for any build.you have to grind off the coating where you are going to be welding.and the you have burned spots that need treating with zinc or something...most galvanized products are galvanized after fabrication and welding.....so if you do make a trailer chassis or repair, it can be done later.......Bruce
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08-19-2009, 11:31 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Trailer: Compact Jr
Posts: 120
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Quote:
if you use galv steel for any build.you have to grind off the coating where you are going to be welding.and the you have burned spots that need treating with zinc or something...most galvanized products are galvanized after fabrication and welding.....so if you do make a trailer chassis or repair, it can be done later.......Bruce
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Bruce,
It's been a while since I posted updates. Frame surgery completed, body painted and mounted, floor installed with linoleum. While managing the floor into place... Crack went the front window, added expense, oh well. I had just installed it using a fresh framed window moldings on the inside.
I purchased the bungee cord to use on the canvas top when the time comes.
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08-19-2009, 11:56 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Trailer: 13 ft Scamp 1983 and 1972 Compact Jr (project)
Posts: 554
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Quote:
Bruce,
It's been a while since I posted updates. Frame surgery completed, body painted and mounted, floor installed with linoleum. While managing the floor into place... Crack went the front window, added expense, oh well. I had just installed it using a fresh framed window moldings on the inside.
I purchased the bungee cord to use on the canvas top when the time comes.
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Cliff--- now, that tongue looks a lot more respectable than what you started with. Good job- shouldn't flex now. Larry
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08-20-2009, 12:44 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
Trailer: Compact Jr
Posts: 120
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Quote:
Cliff--- now, that tongue looks a lot more respectable than what you started with. Good job- shouldn't flex now. Larry
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Larry,
Thanks, I followed your lead, and installed a truss underneath the front section, and the extra cross member support. You can't see it in the picture very well.
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