Complete lil Bigfoot reno - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-20-2016, 01:07 AM   #29
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Finally got shell on the frame and fitted resized and painted door. Looking forward to finish electrical this week and put liner back on the walls.
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Old 07-20-2016, 06:36 AM   #30
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Very nice...

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Old 07-24-2016, 11:08 PM   #31
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curious if you cut your floor out. By that i mean cutting the fiberglass edged plywood sub floor out to replace it. I am just in the process of getting ready to do that. Great pictures, keep em coming.
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Old 07-25-2016, 11:53 AM   #32
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I was lucky to have floor sub in perfect condition with no real water damage. Only place that was a little dry root was in front where one frame bolt penetrate shell and it wasn't sealed under the trailer.I mixed penetrating epoxy ( restore it) to make it solid as a rock. I do plan to glue down 1/2'' teak fllooring on top of plywood after I put cabinets in place. Already removed linoleum and sanded sub floor. If you have to remove plywood I would cut out only damaged section and replace it with new marine ply and soak it with epoxy and one coat of fine fiber.

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curious if you cut your floor out. By that i mean cutting the fiberglass edged plywood sub floor out to replace it. I am just in the process of getting ready to do that. Great pictures, keep em coming.
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Old 07-25-2016, 01:28 PM   #33
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And whole shell shoot. Whole body work and painting process took me 3 weeks almost everyday with some major interlux kote primer drying problems and countless hours of sanding. But in the end it was worth it. Super stoked with the outcome.
I'd love to hear more about the paint process. We are looking at painting our scamp and just starting to do some research.
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Old 07-25-2016, 02:43 PM   #34
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I went with Interlux bright side. It was actually not as easy as I hoped for. I do spray my woodworking projects with HVLP gun and since instructions called for brush I did their Prekote thinned primer with brush. It applied to thick using roller and brush method and it took 2 weeks of sanding just 2 coats or primer. I went thru lots of paper that would clog up super fast. After that I went to local boat works yard and talked to pros. They said that they spray everything with HVLP even tho Interlux told me it's not the way to go. I did try airless gun as this is what Interlux recommend and it was still to thick. After sanding and trying all ,,factory recommended methods,, i went with HVLP and 1.7 tip for great final results. BTW do not fallow their wipe with thinner before applying another coat recommendation. It just bubbled up my last coat. Good tack cloth ,, Ideally with no wax'' is all you need after sanding every coat. If I had to do it all over again I would go with automotive finish since you can't buff Interlux and primer is terrible to sand. Prep work is key to any finishing project. Take time to take off all parts off the body and mask tape what you can't.
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Old 07-31-2016, 12:07 AM   #35
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I went with Interlux bright side. It was actually not as easy as I hoped for. I do spray my woodworking projects with HVLP gun and since instructions called for brush I did their Prekote thinned primer with brush. It applied to thick using roller and brush method and it took 2 weeks of sanding just 2 coats or primer. I went thru lots of paper that would clog up super fast. After that I went to local boat works yard and talked to pros. They said that they spray everything with HVLP even tho Interlux told me it's not the way to go. I did try airless gun as this is what Interlux recommend and it was still to thick. After sanding and trying all ,,factory recommended methods,, i went with HVLP and 1.7 tip for great final results. BTW do not fallow their wipe with thinner before applying another coat recommendation. It just bubbled up my last coat. Good tack cloth ,, Ideally with no wax'' is all you need after sanding every coat. If I had to do it all over again I would go with automotive finish since you can't buff Interlux and primer is terrible to sand. Prep work is key to any finishing project. Take time to take off all parts off the body and mask tape what you can't.
Wet sanding is the key factor for good results.

I thought all was lost for my paint job until the light bulb went off in my brain to use water as a cutting fluid for sanding the primer. As in it really likes be wet sanded and when you do it that way it does not clog up the sand paper. Once I figured that out the job was much easier. It would be even easier if I had a "wet random orbital sander" except that the surface of my Campster is far from being flat and buying a decent quality power sander is not in my budget but at least my elbows, shoulders and wrist still rotate randomly for now with the help of some Ibuprofen .

For some reason the primer directions don't state to wet sand, I guess they figure they are selling to professionals who have that knowledge and equipment. That is how they do it at boat yards and also in automotive shops where they need to keep the dust under control.

The paint also likes to be wet sanded.

So know that you know the secret for sanding it you won't have to be nearly so frustrated with the process.
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Old 07-31-2016, 11:52 AM   #36
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Simply gorgeous. I would love to see photos of how your rear bumper attaches to the body. I think mine has not been done well, and would like ideas about what to do!
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Old 08-01-2016, 10:20 AM   #37
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I called interlux and they said to absolutely not use any water. They said it would fail if i did. It is no brainer to do that on automotive paint tho. Also no buffing so last coat has to be perfect.


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Wet sanding is the key factor for good results.

I thought all was lost for my paint job until the light bulb went off in my brain to use water as a cutting fluid for sanding the primer. As in it really likes be wet sanded and when you do it that way it does not clog up the sand paper. Once I figured that out the job was much easier. It would be even easier if I had a "wet random orbital sander" except that the surface of my Campster is far from being flat and buying a decent quality power sander is not in my budget but at least my elbows, shoulders and wrist still rotate randomly for now with the help of some Ibuprofen .

For some reason the primer directions don't state to wet sand, I guess they figure they are selling to professionals who have that knowledge and equipment. That is how they do it at boat yards and also in automotive shops where they need to keep the dust under control.

The paint also likes to be wet sanded.

So know that you know the secret for sanding it you won't have to be nearly so frustrated with the process.
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Old 08-01-2016, 10:36 AM   #38
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Headliner almost installed and all wired. Sorry for crappy pics.
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Old 08-01-2016, 10:40 AM   #39
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Simply gorgeous. I would love to see photos of how your rear bumper attaches to the body. I think mine has not been done well, and would like ideas about what to do!
I'll snap some later. There is lots of rivets and in area behind spare you have about 6 screws. On top of the bumper there are 2 rivets on L & R side that are attaching to a bracket inside the bumper.That bracket is attached to body but you would have to take bumper off to see it.
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Old 08-01-2016, 09:34 PM   #40
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OK here is side shot of rivets

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Simply gorgeous. I would love to see photos of how your rear bumper attaches to the body. I think mine has not been done well, and would like ideas about what to do!
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Old 08-01-2016, 09:35 PM   #41
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and screws that hold it to body on back


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OK here is side shot of rivets
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Old 08-01-2016, 09:39 PM   #42
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and holes for angle steel bracket inside bumper above tail lights. I still have to do those. I had a really bar caulking job on this trailer so I have spend few hours removing old one and taping and redoing it before pair job.

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and screws that hold it to body on back
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