Complete lil Bigfoot reno - Page 4 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-01-2016, 08:46 PM   #43
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Today was a very productive day. I redid and installed front and back windows and got to finish vinyl headliner inside including ceiling lights. Than got euro frameless side windows in and exterior lighting. Now it's getting to look like a trailer again Happy Birthday to me!!!
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Old 08-01-2016, 11:02 PM   #44
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I called interlux and they said to absolutely not use any water. They said it would fail if i did. It is no brainer to do that on automotive paint tho. Also no buffing so last coat has to be perfect.
Getting a chuckle out of the concept of a paint for boats not holding up to water.
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Old 08-08-2016, 10:55 AM   #45
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Interlux is non water based paint. It does great with water after it cures. If you introduce water during finishing process to any oil or epoxy based finish you will have a big problems. That is a basic knowledge on finishing. What makes Interlux hard to work with is it requires dry sanding unlike automotive paints that can be wet sanded and buffed after last finish coat. Shooting finish is really tricky as you have to dial all of your equipment just right and apply it in right temp. On top of that manufactures do change formulas of finis all the time to meet new laws and sometimes your favorite finish becomes a sanding week nightmare. My 5 cent advice with interlux would be to apply it very thin and let it dry for 2 days before sanding and re coating.


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Getting a chuckle out of the concept of a paint for boats not holding up to water.
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Old 08-09-2016, 11:41 AM   #46
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and holes for angle steel bracket inside bumper above tail lights. I still have to do those. I had a really bar caulking job on this trailer so I have spend few hours removing old one and taping and redoing it before pair job.
Thanks for posting these. So on your trailer, after the bumper is attached and riveted, there is also some caulking to seal it to the shell? That's what we have right now, although on mine it somehow does not look right.
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Old 08-09-2016, 10:29 PM   #47
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Looks great! Did you go with headliner fabric with foam backing or the more carpet like hull liner? Can you share the process you used to attach it to the interior walls? Also did you leave or replace the original layer of insulation material on the interior walls?
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Old 08-10-2016, 10:58 AM   #48
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How to remove false bottom in cabinets?

This trailer is looking beautiful!

I have a question about your upper rear cabinets. The rear left side of mine is drooping, and investigation shows the support screw has completely missed the wooden cleat glassed to the shell.

I think I could boost the cabinet up and properly attach it, but can't see how to get the false bottom out of the cabinet. Is there a trick to this? How did you do it (get to the screws to remove the cabinet)?
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Old 08-10-2016, 01:36 PM   #49
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I removed all old caulking and recaulked it all with few coats of new paintable caulking before i painted the shell. Use blue tape to make nice lines and moist cotton rag to wet the seam before u apply water based caulking.

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Thanks for posting these. So on your trailer, after the bumper is attached and riveted, there is also some caulking to seal it to the shell? That's what we have right now, although on mine it somehow does not look right.
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Old 08-10-2016, 01:45 PM   #50
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I left original pink open cell foam insulation. Some panels where loose so i regaled it Taking off old liner that was 1/4''foam backed took lots of time. I had to sand old foam off with 36grid paper too. First I used 3M headliner contact cement in spray can from amazon to attach new headliner, it worked great but can is $16 and i calculated that it would be min 30 cans after I applied one panel and used up 5 cans. Then I started looking for upholstery supplier in my area. I ended up buying a HVLP gun for this application ($50) and 2 gallons of upholstery contact cement from them( $80). Used almost 2 gal. Headliner I used was rat fur from Scamp. They do sell it if u call them directly.

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Looks great! Did you go with headliner fabric with foam backing or the more carpet like hull liner? Can you share the process you used to attach it to the interior walls? Also did you leave or replace the original layer of insulation material on the interior walls?
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Old 08-10-2016, 01:53 PM   #51
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All upper cabinets in my trailer are attached with 2 bolts each that go thru upper cabinet frame ( u can see it when u open cabinet and look up) and your roof shell. U should have nuts on the roof. I took nuts off on the roof and cabinets where free. side upper and front cabinets are screwed together so if you dropping front upper you have to undo side first. You should have 6 nuts and washers on your roof that hold all upper cabinets. In addition cabinets are attached with wooden screws on the inside to wooden blocking that is hidden behind headliner. If u pop bottom of your upper cabinet on the inside you will see the screws and some electrical wires.

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Originally Posted by Ellpea in CA View Post
This trailer is looking beautiful!

I have a question about your upper rear cabinets. The rear left side of mine is drooping, and investigation shows the support screw has completely missed the wooden cleat glassed to the shell.

I think I could boost the cabinet up and properly attach it, but can't see how to get the false bottom out of the cabinet. Is there a trick to this? How did you do it (get to the screws to remove the cabinet)?
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Old 08-11-2016, 08:15 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by Toykiter View Post
All upper cabinets in my trailer are attached with 2 bolts each that go thru upper cabinet frame ( u can see it when u open cabinet and look up) and your roof shell. U should have nuts on the roof. I took nuts off on the roof and cabinets where free. side upper and front cabinets are screwed together so if you dropping front upper you have to undo side first. You should have 6 nuts and washers on your roof that hold all upper cabinets. In addition cabinets are attached with wooden screws on the inside to wooden blocking that is hidden behind headliner. If u pop bottom of your upper cabinet on the inside you will see the screws and some electrical wires.
Everything seems solid and well-attached, and I don't want to remove the cabinet, I just want to secure the lower screw on the left side, which is currently not screwed into the wooden blocking.

I can see that screw, because the cabinet is drooping away from the shell in that area, but I can't get to it to deal with it because I can't get the false bottom out of the cabinet. The head of the screw is under the false bottom (along with the electrics.

So the question is, what is the trick to getting the false bottom out so I can get to the screws? (Thanks again)
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Old 08-11-2016, 01:08 PM   #53
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False bottom is 2 pieces dropped onside cabinet. Just pry it in the middle.

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Originally Posted by Ellpea in CA View Post
Everything seems solid and well-attached, and I don't want to remove the cabinet, I just want to secure the lower screw on the left side, which is currently not screwed into the wooden blocking.

I can see that screw, because the cabinet is drooping away from the shell in that area, but I can't get to it to deal with it because I can't get the false bottom out of the cabinet. The head of the screw is under the false bottom (along with the electrics.

So the question is, what is the trick to getting the false bottom out so I can get to the screws? (Thanks again)
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Old 08-11-2016, 06:28 PM   #54
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Removing false bottom of cabinets

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False bottom is 2 pieces dropped onside cabinet. Just pry it in the middle.
OK, I'll give this another try. I've "pried" a little without success, but these have been painted in and out, so maybe they've been stuck a bit with just paint alone.
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Old 08-23-2016, 06:50 PM   #55
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How much headliner fabric did you need/use?
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Old 04-02-2017, 06:19 PM   #56
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How much headliner fabric did you need/use?
I think I got 13yards from Scamp.
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