Completely rewiring my 85 Scamp. - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-30-2013, 06:35 PM   #1
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Completely rewiring my 85 Scamp.

Completely rewiring my 85 Scamp.

I have decided to completely rewire my 85 Scamp.... I have been doing a lot of "primitive" camping and have no batteries or even a way to use batteries as of now. This Scamp was completely rebuilt by me a few years ago after I bought it totaled.

Right now it just has the standard 4 wire plug going in that controls the running lights and brake lights. I use 110 for the inside and installed a little 110 - 12V convertor under the sink that I have run the few 12 volt lights I have in it to.

What I would like is to be able to run the power for lights off of my Yukon, have some batteries for non-powered camping, and have a way to charge my camper batteries with my Yukon.

Where do I start?
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Old 03-30-2013, 07:10 PM   #2
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First start by printing out the Scamp wiring digram from the Scamp Website, no need to reinvent the wheel. This diagram is set up for using a converter. You can adapt it to a fuse box set up if you wish.
For the trailer order a 7 pin pigtail and 7 pin junction box. You will need a battery, battery box and in line fuseholder and fuse for the battery. In a S13 I usually install a Blue Sea fuse panel it's about $100 cheaper than going the converter route.
For your tow, if pre wired E- trailer has most everything you need to wire your truck. If it is not pre-wired they also sell a kit with everything you need for a complete install from scratch.
Eddie
Wiring Diagram
http://www.scamptrailers.com/Portals...nersManual.pdf
Junction box
http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-...tro/38656.html
7 pin pigtail
http://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Hopkins/H20046.html
Fuse panel
http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syste.../dp/B000THQ0CQ
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:41 PM   #3
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There's stuff in the Document Center here to help you too.

Fiberglass RV - Document Center - Electrical
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Old 04-01-2013, 03:54 PM   #4
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Thanks for the input. I ordered the pigtail and the junction box.

I am a bit lost with the Blue Sea thing... It already has a small breaker box under the sink. Will this replace that, be used with that, or what?

Break it down for me like I'm a kindergartner... I am new to electrics. I ripped out the old wires that ran to where the battery box used to sit. The only wires that go into the camper now are from the 4-way plug.
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Old 04-01-2013, 04:15 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Joe Steadman View Post
Thanks for the input. I ordered the pigtail and the junction box.

I am a bit lost with the Blue Sea thing... It already has a small breaker box under the sink. Will this replace that, be used with that, or what?

Break it down for me like I'm a kindergartner... I am new to electrics. I ripped out the old wires that ran to where the battery box used to sit. The only wires that go into the camper now are from the 4-way plug.
You need two sets of breakers or fuses (same function). One set is for the incoming 110 volts AC, the second set is for the 12 volt accessories. The 12 volt fuses are in the Blue Sea box.

You have a 110 volt cord running into the trailer. This goes into a box with a breaker or breakers (under your sink now). Power from the breakers goes to the 12 volt converter, 110 volt outlets and maybe some 110 volt lights.

The converter is connected to the battery. From this connection at the battery, power goes to the fuses (in the Blue Sea box). From each fuse, a wire runs to a circuit for the fan, a light or a pump, etc.

To power off your tow vehicle you need to run power from the + battery terminal to a 30 amp circuit beaker then to a relay, then back to the 7 pin connector that will replace your 4 pin connector. It needs to be at least 10 gauge. You then run a wire from a circuit that is hot when the key is on to the relay. That way you don't run down your tow vehicle battery when you are camping. The trailer end of the 7 pin connector hooks to the battery (plus the tail lights, etc).

To run just off the tow vehicle you have to leave the key on. Unless you only use a tiny bit of juice, this is not a good way to go - the tow battery will go flat.

http://www.marxrv.com/12volt/12volt.htm
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Old 04-01-2013, 05:42 PM   #6
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I am just going to cut it all out... except the breaker box and 100 cord.
1. Run the pig tail in
2. Connect that to the junction box.
3. ground the junction box.
4. re-connect the brake lights and running lights to the junction box
That is where I get lost.....

SO, I connect the battery to the junction box?
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Old 04-01-2013, 05:53 PM   #7
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Joe, it sounds like what you are looking for is a good basic article on RV electrics. This link may provide you with the info you need.

Check out the 12 volt side of life, parts I & II.

RV Technical Articles
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Old 04-01-2013, 06:00 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Joe Steadman View Post
I am just going to cut it all out... except the breaker box and 100 cord.
1. Run the pig tail in
2. Connect that to the junction box.
3. ground the junction box.
4. re-connect the brake lights and running lights to the junction box
That is where I get lost.....

SO, I connect the battery to the junction box?
You really want to keep the tail light wiring separate from the interior wiring. It should be spliced in its own junction box, maybe on the tongue or somewhere else in the trailer.

I linked the 12 volt side of life in my above post - it is a good place to start.
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Old 04-01-2013, 06:02 PM   #9
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wow, I am in over my head... Ugh.

I need:
Pig Tail
Junction box
Charger or invertor
a fuse for 12 volt
a breaker box for 110
at least one deep cycle 12 volt battery


I want to be able to boondock it and be able to charge my battery with my truck.
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Old 04-01-2013, 06:39 PM   #10
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So I should buy two junction boxes?
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Old 04-01-2013, 06:53 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Steadman View Post
wow, I am in over my head... Ugh.

I need:
Pig Tail Yes, for the 7 pin connector
Junction box Yes, also for the 7 pin connector
Charger or invertor You want a converter. I thought you already had one
a fuse for 12 volt Yes, the Blue Sea box
a breaker box for 110 Don't you have one under the sink, now?
at least one deep cycle 12 volt battery Yes


I want to be able to boondock it and be able to charge my battery with my truck. I've got that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Steadman View Post
So I should buy two junction boxes?
You only need the one junction box for the trailer light wiring. If you don't have a converter now, it makes more sense to buy a converter that includes an integral 110v breaker box and a fuse panel. Called a power center. Here is an example:

PD4045 45 Amp Inteli-Power Mighty Mini Power Center
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