Connecting Converter and Battery - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-31-2012, 03:38 PM   #1
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Connecting Converter and Battery

I'm having trouble finding a proper diagram or instructions for installing my Converter.

I purchased an Iota dls-45 converter and charger
IOTA Engineering DLS-45 12VDC Battery Charger and Power Converter - 45 Amps

I'm struggling on how to connect it to my 12v fridge and battery.

It has a cord and plug to plug into an AC socket, and has a + and - and ground terminal on the back. How would the connection go though.

AC plug----> + battery, - battery, ground to trailer or common ground, and then connect my fridge +/- cables to my battery?

Also, would it be possible to connect the fridge directly to the converter without a battery?
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Old 05-31-2012, 04:09 PM   #2
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Do you have a fuse panel? Normally power is input to the fuse panel from both the converter and the battery at a single input point. Power is taken out through a series of fuses (or circuit breakers) for power consumers like the refrigerator, lights, etc.

You will probably not want to run your refrigerator off the battery alone, unless you have an efficient compressor type refrigerator.
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Old 05-31-2012, 04:14 PM   #3
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I have my 110v Breaker box, but I don't have a 12v fuse box. Is that what I need also? My fridge is a Waeco RPD-50, DC fridge.
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Old 05-31-2012, 04:31 PM   #4
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I have my 110v Breaker box, but I don't have a 12v fuse box. Is that what I need also? My fridge is a Waeco RPD-50, DC fridge.
OK, that is a high efficiency compressor refrigerator. If you only want to run the refrigerator, you can hook up an inline fuse to the + output of the converter and then hook this fused wire to the refrigerator.

If you want a battery in the circuit, hook up an inline fuse to the + terminal of the battery, then connect this wire to the wire going to the refrigerator.

All DC grounds would be connected together. Use 12 gauge wire and 10 amp fuse for the fridge, or less according to refrigerator manufacturer's recommendations. Use a 20 amp fuse for the battery.

Amazon.com: In-line ACT Water-resistant Fuse Holder - 10 AWG: Automotive

If you are going to have more things run off the battery / converter, I'd use a fuse panel rather than inline fuses.
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Old 05-31-2012, 06:04 PM   #5
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Thanks Thomas. Right now it'll just be the Fridge running off the battery.
Question:

If I connect the + outputs, where do I connect the - outputs to?
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Old 05-31-2012, 06:31 PM   #6
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Thanks Thomas. Right now it'll just be the Fridge running off the battery.
Question:

If I connect the + outputs, where do I connect the - outputs to?
Connect the negatives (DC grounds) from the converter, the battery and the refrigerator all together.
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Old 05-31-2012, 07:31 PM   #7
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I'm having trouble finding a proper diagram or instructions for installing my Converter.
The instructions can be seen by selecting the tab on the left of the page you referred to - that says "INSTALLATION MANUAL" which opens this PDF.

If you are using it to charge your battery, use the dual voltage jack as that will bump your charging voltage up and increase the % of charge you can obtain. The 13.6 Volt output will never fully charge your battery. You may want to look at the DLS-45/IQ4 because it provides for better battery charging.

The specs for your fridge can be found here. It uses 3.3 amps when running, 20-32 amps per 24 hr period, avg 0.83 -1.33 amps per hour. Those numers will help you decide which battery you need and any solar requirements if you are going to be off the grid.
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Old 05-31-2012, 08:01 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Roy in TO View Post
The instructions can be seen by selecting the tab on the left of the page you referred to - that says "INSTALLATION MANUAL" which opens this PDF.

If you are using it to charge your battery, use the dual voltage jack as that will bump your charging voltage up and increase the % of charge you can obtain. The 13.6 Volt output will never fully charge your battery. You may want to look at the DLS-45/IQ4 because it provides for better battery charging.

The specs for your fridge can be found here. It uses 3.3 amps when running, 20-32 amps per 24 hr period, avg 0.83 -1.33 amps per hour. Those numers will help you decide which battery you need and any solar requirements if you are going to be off the grid.
Yeah, I have the DLS/IQ4, the installation manual for Iota isn't very helpful, and there isn't really a diagram for how it should go to my appliance. I was thinking of just getting a small AGM battery or group 24 as it'll just have to run off battery during transit. We camp primarily at sites with power.
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Old 05-31-2012, 08:06 PM   #9
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You could switch to a 7 pin cable and charge from your tow vehicle while in transit. Or a single solar panel for about the same cost.
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Old 05-31-2012, 08:09 PM   #10
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You could switch to a 7 pin cable and charge from your tow vehicle while in transit. Or a single solar panel for about the same cost.
I was thinking about Solar, but I don't really know how big a panel I'd need. Right now, I'm just trying to get the converter and fridge installed properly!

I haven't really thought about 7 pin, as both the Boler and my TV are already wired for flat4.
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:05 PM   #11
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Amps per hour is kind of misleading. Something draws a fixed number of amps at a certain voltage. Amps specify current. What you want is watts per hour ... That's power.
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:50 PM   #12
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Think of it as the fridge (and lights, etc) taking power out of the battery and the iota charger putting power back into the battery. The big plus and minus terminals connect to + and - on the battery. Use big enough wire to handle the current. 45 amps is a lot, you probably need 2 or 4 gage cable.

Also be sure your battery can take 45 amps charging current. If you are using one small battery like a group 24 you probably need an AGM to take the current.
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Old 06-01-2012, 12:10 AM   #13
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Amps per hour is kind of misleading. Something draws a fixed number of amps at a certain voltage. Amps specify current. What you want is watts per hour ... That's power.
OK, maybe I'm dumb. I read the specs for his fridge and got the avg amps per hour.

If I've got a battery rated at 100 amp hours and I don't want it to go below 50%, my understanding is that I can use 50 amp hours. Given that his fridge consumes about 1 amp per hour. Should I not be able to run his fridge by itself for about 2 days before I need to recharge the battery?
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Old 06-01-2012, 06:53 AM   #14
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................I haven't really thought about 7 pin, as both the Boler and my TV are already wired for flat 4.
You could add a small second connector just for charging the battery. It wouldn't be standard, but would be a little easier to install. Amazon.com: Hopkins 47965 2-Pole Flat Extension: Automotive

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........... Use big enough wire to handle the current. 45 amps is a lot, you probably need 2 or 4 gage cable. Also be sure your battery can take 45 amps charging current. If you are using one small battery like a group 24 you probably need an AGM to take the current.
You are not going to be hitting the battery with the full 45 amps. That charger capacity is to run accessories.

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OK, maybe I'm dumb. I read the specs for his fridge and got the avg amps per hour.

If I've got a battery rated at 100 amp hours and I don't want it to go below 50%, my understanding is that I can use 50 amp hours. Given that his fridge consumes about 1 amp per hour. Should I not be able to run his fridge by itself for about 2 days before I need to recharge the battery?
The overall amp hour rating is a simplification - it is maximum with a small load and less with a large load. The battery supplier should have a capacity chart based on load. This explains it.: Deep Cycle Battery FAQ


Quote:
Because of something called the Peukert Effect. The Peukert value is directly related to the internal resistance of the battery. The higher the internal resistance, the higher the losses while charging and discharging, especially at higher currents. This means that the faster a battery is used (discharged), the LOWER the AH capacity. Conversely, if it is drained slower, the AH capacity is higher. This is important because some manufacturers and vendors have chosen to rate their batteries at the 100 hour rate - which makes them look a lot better than they really are.
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