converter ? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-14-2013, 01:12 PM   #15
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Hey guys i have a 1978 Trillium 4500 it seems to have a 10amp converter it is not hooked up to a battery it is use just with Shore power (came this way and that's fine for our needs) i would like to up grade to 30amps and looking for something that's plug and play for the most part is their any thing on the market that will fit my needs ? size i no problem as i'm very handy and can make it fit. all the wires seem to have been updated with in the last 10 years and are in good shape.
If what you have meets your needs why "upgrade"? Is it an upgrade if what you have already meets your needs?
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Old 11-14-2013, 01:31 PM   #16
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The converter, in the thread that I posted, I see more as a battery charger that supplies 12VDC to the trailer as well. It comes in three flavors, 55, 45, and 35 Amp. They are all the same size. I personally don't see a need for more then 35 Amp, but I guess it depends on what you want to do.

I gotta agree with Byron, If what you have works, why change? Also, the 10 amps that you refer to is the 120VAC breaker rating on the converter. I think the actual 12VDC current output is lower then that. The documentation that I found shows a 6 A or 9 A DC output, ~ 100W. Enough for the lights, not much more.
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/d...rConverter.pdf

I suspect that at the prices for this unit, a solar install will come before any converter upgrade for me. All of my Trillium trailers, that have a converter, have the same one as in your picture.
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Old 11-14-2013, 01:34 PM   #17
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We will see soon if it meets our needs. But I don't think it will as it has a dorm room fridge and I will be using a 5000 btu ac will need laptop charge phones, TV
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Old 11-14-2013, 01:57 PM   #18
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James, I think you are mixing up the 12 VDC and the 120VAC.

The 5000 btu air conditioner that I found was a little over 500 watts. The starting current will be higher, but a circuit breaker should tolerate more for a short period. The bar fridge should be no more then 150 watts. A total of 650 watts divided by the voltage, 120 VAC gives around 5.5 amps. This is well under the 10 amp capacity of the breaker. My 1500 W ceramic heater sets off the breaker, but I can just run a 12/3 extension cord in the bottom of the door. This gives me the full 15 amps that can be supplied from the current bush.

The DC side of things might include a car charger for your electronics, lights, a roof vent fan, electric blanket ...... I have yet to overload the 12 DC output of the converter.
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Old 11-14-2013, 02:56 PM   #19
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Since you read it, why the comment about it fitting in SOME converters?

What are the dimensions of a PD4045?

Where in a 4500, which the OP owns, do you propose to put such a large panel?
------------------------------------------------------------------

1. The comment about "some" converters is from the PD web site. The 4645 was dimensioned to fit certain families of early converter enclosures, but won't fit in all due to size restraints in one or more directions.

2. The PD website lists all dimensions and specifications.

www.progressivedyn.com/power_converters

3. I see in the same thread referenced above, Post #5, that Normand installed a PD-4045 in his Trillium. If I had images and dimensions of the op's Trillium I am sure a solution could be found to do the job. That said, I wouldn't install any electrical equipment directly under the furnace anyway.
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Old 11-14-2013, 04:06 PM   #20
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Yes Dave i'm talking about 120VAC the only 12 VDC we have in the camper is a fan( and lights ?). we have not yet gone camper with the Trillium so i'm just checking it all out before we do. We wont be using to much stuff but i would like to run an ac, tv and fridge at the same time.
guess i can always use a 30amp pigtail on the camper for Shore power and plug the ac in to a extension cord and plug in to the 15 amps of Shore power. I'm new to camping so don't know the in's and out's yet. Thanks guys.
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Old 11-14-2013, 04:21 PM   #21
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Yes Dave i'm talking about 120VAC the only 12 VDC we have in the camper is a fan( and lights ?). we have not yet gone camper with the Trillium so i'm just checking it all out before we do. We wont be using to much stuff but i would like to run an ac, tv and fridge at the same time.
guess i can always use a 30amp pigtail on the camper for Shore power and plug the ac in to a extension cord and plug in to the 15 amps of Shore power. I'm new to camping so don't know the in's and out's yet. Thanks guys.
The converter (key word convert) converts 120 Volt AC to 12 Volt DC. Normally it's only purpose it to charge the battery and provide 12 Volt DC when plugged into 120 Volt AC. It does nothing more, nothing less.
All the 120 Volt stuff runs directly from the 120 Volt AC source (A/C, TV, dorm refrigerator). Which means you'll have to be plugged to run those things.
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Old 11-14-2013, 04:30 PM   #22
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Yes Byron 120 Volt AC source what would you need to upgrad the AC source from 10amp to 30amp ?
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Old 11-14-2013, 04:43 PM   #23
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Yes Byron 120 Volt AC source what would you need to upgrad the AC source from 10amp to 30amp ?
Where did this 10 amp thing come from? If I knew where you got that number I might be able help clarify your issue.
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Old 11-14-2013, 05:24 PM   #24
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I posted the photo of my converter it says 115 VAC 10amp max
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Old 11-14-2013, 05:30 PM   #25
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I posted the photo of my converter it says 115 VAC 10amp max

That what I thought. The 10 Amp is the 12 Volt DC output the converter. Since you have very little 12 Volt stuff don't worry about it. Your trailer's 120 Volt system is probably wired for at least 20 Amps. The starting current of your AC unit should be around 10 to 12 amp maximum. So you're good to go.
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Old 11-14-2013, 06:56 PM   #26
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That what I thought. The 10 Amp is the 12 Volt DC output the converter. Since you have very little 12 Volt stuff don't worry about it. Your trailer's 120 Volt system is probably wired for at least 20 Amps. The starting current of your AC unit should be around 10 to 12 amp maximum. So you're good to go.
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Old 11-14-2013, 06:58 PM   #27
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Actually Byron, the converter has a 10 amp 120VAC breaker in it, as well as a single receptacle. The other three duplex receptacles all are wired through it. I am not sure why, kinda bothersome when trying to run a 1500W, (12.5A) ceramic heater. When it was really cold and the heater was on the kitchen cupboard it worked fine. When I put the heater on the floor, the temperature difference was enough to trip the breaker. I guess it is a thermal breaker. Now, I just use a 12/3 extension cord for the heater.
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Old 11-14-2013, 07:19 PM   #28
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1. The comment about "some" converters is from the PD web site. The 4645 was dimensioned to fit certain families of early converter enclosures, but won't fit in all due to size restraints in one or more directions.
That is correct, but not relevant to the install in the thread, it was not installed in any other converter. In fact he used a cold air return as a face plate. He may have violated his CSA with that non CSA approved face plate, but if I install a new converter, I plan to do exactly that.

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3. I see in the same thread referenced above, Post #5, that Normand installed a PD-4045 in his Trillium. If I had images and dimensions of the op's Trillium I am sure a solution could be found to do the job. That said, I wouldn't install any electrical equipment directly under the furnace anyway.
Well, perhaps you would not, but Trillium did. That is where the converter is installed in every Trillium 4500 I have. In later years, they installed a slightly larger converter in the side of the kitchen, facing the dinette. A rather awkward place in my opinion.

I also would like to see Normands install. There are not many good places for a converter on a Trillium. The original converter uses a space that would otherwise be wasted, (well, maybe a breaker panel could go there). Almost any other place would require sacrificing space that is used otherwise. Even the later side of the kitchen converter install required moving a drawer.
Trillium 4500 Kitchen Variations

I assume that you wouldn't install under the furnace due to concerns about getting the converter hot. I suspect that the gravity furnace doesn't emit much heat down. In fact, I am not sure the furnace produces much heat at all. It is OK down to freezing, but any lower then that, an electric blanket is a good idea.
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