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Old 11-14-2013, 04:21 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by cheenyc View Post
Yes Dave i'm talking about 120VAC the only 12 VDC we have in the camper is a fan( and lights ?). we have not yet gone camper with the Trillium so i'm just checking it all out before we do. We wont be using to much stuff but i would like to run an ac, tv and fridge at the same time.
guess i can always use a 30amp pigtail on the camper for Shore power and plug the ac in to a extension cord and plug in to the 15 amps of Shore power. I'm new to camping so don't know the in's and out's yet. Thanks guys.
The converter (key word convert) converts 120 Volt AC to 12 Volt DC. Normally it's only purpose it to charge the battery and provide 12 Volt DC when plugged into 120 Volt AC. It does nothing more, nothing less.
All the 120 Volt stuff runs directly from the 120 Volt AC source (A/C, TV, dorm refrigerator). Which means you'll have to be plugged to run those things.
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Old 11-14-2013, 04:30 PM   #22
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Yes Byron 120 Volt AC source what would you need to upgrad the AC source from 10amp to 30amp ?
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Old 11-14-2013, 04:43 PM   #23
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Yes Byron 120 Volt AC source what would you need to upgrad the AC source from 10amp to 30amp ?
Where did this 10 amp thing come from? If I knew where you got that number I might be able help clarify your issue.
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Old 11-14-2013, 05:24 PM   #24
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I posted the photo of my converter it says 115 VAC 10amp max
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Old 11-14-2013, 05:30 PM   #25
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I posted the photo of my converter it says 115 VAC 10amp max

That what I thought. The 10 Amp is the 12 Volt DC output the converter. Since you have very little 12 Volt stuff don't worry about it. Your trailer's 120 Volt system is probably wired for at least 20 Amps. The starting current of your AC unit should be around 10 to 12 amp maximum. So you're good to go.
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Old 11-14-2013, 06:56 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
That what I thought. The 10 Amp is the 12 Volt DC output the converter. Since you have very little 12 Volt stuff don't worry about it. Your trailer's 120 Volt system is probably wired for at least 20 Amps. The starting current of your AC unit should be around 10 to 12 amp maximum. So you're good to go.
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Old 11-14-2013, 06:58 PM   #27
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Actually Byron, the converter has a 10 amp 120VAC breaker in it, as well as a single receptacle. The other three duplex receptacles all are wired through it. I am not sure why, kinda bothersome when trying to run a 1500W, (12.5A) ceramic heater. When it was really cold and the heater was on the kitchen cupboard it worked fine. When I put the heater on the floor, the temperature difference was enough to trip the breaker. I guess it is a thermal breaker. Now, I just use a 12/3 extension cord for the heater.
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Old 11-14-2013, 07:19 PM   #28
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1. The comment about "some" converters is from the PD web site. The 4645 was dimensioned to fit certain families of early converter enclosures, but won't fit in all due to size restraints in one or more directions.
That is correct, but not relevant to the install in the thread, it was not installed in any other converter. In fact he used a cold air return as a face plate. He may have violated his CSA with that non CSA approved face plate, but if I install a new converter, I plan to do exactly that.

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3. I see in the same thread referenced above, Post #5, that Normand installed a PD-4045 in his Trillium. If I had images and dimensions of the op's Trillium I am sure a solution could be found to do the job. That said, I wouldn't install any electrical equipment directly under the furnace anyway.
Well, perhaps you would not, but Trillium did. That is where the converter is installed in every Trillium 4500 I have. In later years, they installed a slightly larger converter in the side of the kitchen, facing the dinette. A rather awkward place in my opinion.

I also would like to see Normands install. There are not many good places for a converter on a Trillium. The original converter uses a space that would otherwise be wasted, (well, maybe a breaker panel could go there). Almost any other place would require sacrificing space that is used otherwise. Even the later side of the kitchen converter install required moving a drawer.
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ons-53368.html

I assume that you wouldn't install under the furnace due to concerns about getting the converter hot. I suspect that the gravity furnace doesn't emit much heat down. In fact, I am not sure the furnace produces much heat at all. It is OK down to freezing, but any lower then that, an electric blanket is a good idea.
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Old 11-15-2013, 07:08 AM   #29
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For what it's worth, the current versions put the converter under the front seat, as suggested, taking up storage space. Raz
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Old 11-15-2013, 08:56 AM   #30
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Older converters, which usually only consisted of a step down transformer, a couple of large diodes and a few filter caps, could easily take the heat from a nearby furnace. Modern electronics are not always so forgiving, with even modest heat being the #1 enemy of semiconductors.

At over $200 + a lot of work, I still wouldn't put a PD-4645 under the furnace, regardless of where Trillium had been installing earlier, (and since moved ?) components.



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Old 11-15-2013, 10:17 AM   #31
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What work? Take out the old converter, don't cut any new holes, don't cover the old hole, don't run any new wire. Putting the new converter back in the same place as the old one has to have some advantages over a new location.

I suspect Trillium moved the converter because they could no longer get one so small. The one they put in the kitchen was much larger then the one they put under the furnace.

As for the cost delta, the difference is $20 at Best Conveter:
PD4045 45 Amp Inteli-Power Mighty Mini Power Center
4600 series Upgrade Kits

Neither includes AC breakers.
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Old 11-15-2013, 12:03 PM   #32
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Work?
When using the PD-4645 as a stand alone converter I think that you will also have to cobb up some sort of DC fuse panel and an A/C breaker panel and find a space for that somewhere as well.

Cost:
As I mentioned a few weeks back, the PD 4045 is available from www.teardroptrailerparts.com for about $155, even less than the Best Converter price.

Features and Benefits:
The PD-4045 comes with a 12 position 12VDC fuse panel built in with leads attached, as well as space for up to 6 a/c circuits, all safely and neatly enclosed behind an easy access front panel.

And, when it's time to sell, you have an added value feature of a modern power center that a pieced together power center can't provide to interested buyers.

I'm Done.....



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Old 11-15-2013, 12:27 PM   #33
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Bob, I think you meant Teardrop Trailer Parts. I went to that site and did not see any converters, so price comparison is a bit difficult. I suspect their price delta would be comparable to Best converter. If I ever upgrade my converter, I will ask them for a quote on the PD-4645. Assuming I don't find one on kijiji first.

The PD-4645 comes with a 12 terminal DC fuse board as shown in this post:
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post325467
It is necessary to find a place near the converter to mount it, hence the bubble gum and bailing twine comment of mine previously. What I would actually do is fibreglass a piece of 3/4" plywood to the wheel well. Then I would mount a small NEMA 4 box to it. This box is likely where I would mount a few panel mount 120 VAC breakers with a physical separation between the 12 and 120 V sections. I would probably connect the whole assembly using liquid tight flex conduit. Kinda overkill, but that is how I role. I don't foresee any resale problems, because all of my Trillium 4500's are going to my kids, except the front dinette model I will keep for my wife and I. I am still looking for that trailer.

I understand your dedication to the PD-4045. In the end I think the PD-4045 may be the best solution for an RV that has the room. It would be nice to have the AC breakers and the DC fuses all in the same place. For a Trillium 4500 that has a converter that is already under the furnace, the PD-4645, or any of it's variants, is a better fit.
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Old 11-15-2013, 01:48 PM   #34
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My Bad.... contact Frank Bear at www.teardroptrailerparts.com 269-665-9060 and tell him what you want. He quoted one to me about 3 weeks ago and, as mentioned, I have bought at least 6 of them from him in the past. They don't list everything they have on the website.

The fuse board included with the PD-4645 is designed as a replacement for the stock 4 or 5 fuse panel in the original converter chassis.

PD also makes a very nice external fuse panel with about 15 fuse positions. I put one of those,and a 9200 converter in a FGRV



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Old 11-15-2013, 01:55 PM   #35
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Here is a link to the PD power distribution panels for those that, due to space limitations, may have to have a seperate converter and power dist panel:
RV AC/DC Power Distribution Panels from Progressive Dynamics



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Old 11-17-2013, 11:59 PM   #36
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Bob,
I had not seen those stand alone distribution panels. In my case the Scamp side dinette has very little space to work with. The PD 5000 distribution panel is actually wider than the 4045 by over an inch, and lower by 1 3/4". That may help it fit the side of the bench, but space would still be needed inside for the converter.
I was thinking that the trailer tongue would be a better spot. A suitable WP enclosure would need to be mounted between the propane bottles and the front wall of the trailer. Some ventilation would need to be provided such as louvers.
The performance of the charger would be enhanced due to it being mounted next to the batteries. That charger only provides 13.4v after bulk which some would say is over a volt too low. Subtract the voltage drop of 10' of the 10 ga. wire Scamp put in the trailer and you get poor charging. The drawback is that the DC circuits would have to be extended from the old location to up front, and the AC also fed to the input and all AC circuits extended. Voltage drop there would not be so critical. The exterior enclosure box would be expensive too. I may just do mine that way. No fan noise under the bunk either.
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Old 11-18-2013, 12:05 AM   #37
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I ran 4 gauge to mine. It puts out up to 45 amps, 10 gauge isn't sufficient anyway. The fan isn't silent, but its very quiet.
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Old 11-18-2013, 07:31 AM   #38
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We installed a PD-4045 in our 13' Scamp in the same place as the original converter, under the rear dinette seat, without problems, certainly nothing like "Poor Charging" would suggest. I think that the whole distance/voltage drop issue is being overrated. But then, I get blamed for saying things like "Don't worry, Be Happy".

As far as putting the entire power chassis/dist panel in the tongue, first consider getting out in the rain/snow/dark to fix a blown fuse/blown ac breaker.

I posted the link to the Dist Panels primarily for the smaller DC Dist Panel. Basically, if someone has room for the larger ac/dc panel they should have room for the PD-4045. I think that the larger panel is more intended for those using stand alone converters.

Considering the lack of real world complaints, I think that the entire issue of charging rates and voltage drops, esp when using the PD series products, is waaaaay over discussed.



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Old 11-18-2013, 08:17 PM   #39
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We installed a PD-4045 in our 13' Scamp in the same place as the original converter, under the rear dinette seat, without problems, certainly nothing like "Poor Charging" would suggest. I think that the whole distance/voltage drop issue is being overrated. But then, I get blamed for saying things like "Don't worry, Be Happy"..
Bob,
Putting it in the stock location is certainly the easiest. It would take rehanging the storage compartment door, and would be crowded, but possible. Due to the PD's conservative charging voltages I wouldn't skimp on the output wiring. To each his own. I'm trying to fix a system that doesn't work to my satisfaction. The original panel still works probably as good as it ever did, but it is so slow to get the charging done, and doesn't have multi stage ability like the PD.

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As far as putting the entire power chassis/dist panel in the tongue, first consider getting out in the rain/snow/dark to fix a blown fuse/blown ac breaker..

That is a good point. My home panel is outside and I have had to go out a couple of times to reset a breaker in the last 15 years.

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I posted the link to the Dist Panels primarily for the smaller DC Dist Panel. Basically, if someone has room for the larger ac/dc panel they should have room for the PD-4045. I think that the larger panel is more intended for those using stand alone converters..

Yes, that is what I thought. Buying the stand alone and combining with the distribution panel may fit better than the whole load center. The height measurement is more favorable, so it may install just above the hinges for the storage door. Installing the load center would require removing the hinges and spreading the spacing of them to allow the face plate to fit between them. Thanks for the link.

[QUOTE=Bob Miller;431755]
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Considering the lack of real world complaints, I think that the entire issue of charging rates and voltage drops, esp when using the PD series products, is waaaaay over discussed.
You may be right, but it makes for some colorful posts. There is probably something to be learned from it.
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Old 11-18-2013, 08:42 PM   #40
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I ran 4 gauge to mine. It puts out up to 45 amps, 10 gauge isn't sufficient anyway. The fan isn't silent, but its very quiet.
Jared,
4 gauge only loses .22v per 10 length with the charger at full tilt, so you're probably topping up pretty good. With 10 gauge the drop would be 1v. The ground return would also add some resistance depending on whether you used the trailer frame for the return or another length of 4ga.
The fan in my stock American converter is really pretty quiet too. It never bothers us.
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