Covering or replacing twisted iron bars? - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-06-2012, 01:17 AM   #29
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Name: Russ
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Dylan,
I too wanted a minimalist look and proceeded to remove the twisties. I replaced the ironwork with a single 3/4" square aluminum tube. I used 1/8" inch wall thickness which provides adequate rigidity to hold up my roof and cabinet loads. I tig welded a tab onto the top which fits under the cabinet flange at the top, and is held in place by a 3/16" diameter pop rivet which was removed from the original installation and re-installed to sandwich the new tab, cabinet flange and roof together. At the bottom I welded a similar tab screwed to the floor OSB. I cut out the fiberglass seat to accommodate the tube. (I actually removed the seat entirely to make the installation so the tab would fit thru without over cutting. I stroke sanded the aluminum tube to give a clean modern look. It came out great. I will try and post some pics when I get back home. PS. I did install temporary shoring to ensure the roof wouldn't sag while I removed the old supports. A weight savings was achieved with this mod too.
Russ
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Old 07-06-2012, 02:42 AM   #30
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Actually the things are called Newels or Balusters:

Newels | Newel Post | Beautiful Newel Posts for Stairways - StairSupplies™
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Old 07-07-2012, 06:22 PM   #31
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Trailer: 2001 Scamp 13'
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Originally Posted by Gilda View Post
Am I the only one who actually LIKES the black twisty bars? My 2011 Scamp came with the white twisty bars. When I asked Jim (at Scamp) if I could get black bars he said they don't make them anymore and I could paint the white ones black. I generally find that home paint jobs are not successful. As time goes by I suspect that the black will chip and reveal the white underneath. If anyone wants to swap out their black twisties for white ones I'd like to talk with you. I would prefer that you live in Northern California (SF Bay Area) for ease of swapping.
Gilda, you are welcome to my black ones once removed (I have some 1 1/4" dowels cut I'll be painting white). Perhaps you pay shipping? Or, at some point in the next few months I'll be rolling through Marin, Sausalito/San Rafael ish areas. Maybe you could pick it up? I'd love for it not to end up in landfill!

I guess it all depends on the style your going for. The twists, seem "homey", wrought iron, especially black just has a vintage vibe to it to me. But I'm going for simple and modern. But my major issue with the black twists from an aesthetic point of view is there is nothing else on my Scamp in that style. But don't mind me, I have a strong personal design sense, and it's not always appreciated by the masses.
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Old 07-07-2012, 06:30 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by ruscal View Post
Dylan,
I too wanted a minimalist look and proceeded to remove the twisties. I replaced the ironwork with a single 3/4" square aluminum tube. I used 1/8" inch wall thickness which provides adequate rigidity to hold up my roof and cabinet loads. I tig welded a tab onto the top which fits under the cabinet flange at the top, and is held in place by a 3/16" diameter pop rivet which was removed from the original installation and re-installed to sandwich the new tab, cabinet flange and roof together. At the bottom I welded a similar tab screwed to the floor OSB. I cut out the fiberglass seat to accommodate the tube. (I actually removed the seat entirely to make the installation so the tab would fit thru without over cutting. I stroke sanded the aluminum tube to give a clean modern look. It came out great. I will try and post some pics when I get back home. PS. I did install temporary shoring to ensure the roof wouldn't sag while I removed the old supports. A weight savings was achieved with this mod too.
Russ
I'd love to see pics! Sounds rather complex and awesome, I'd love an fabricated aluminum part!

But for now I have pine dowel from Lowes, 1 1/4" I think. Seems round and smooth. I'll be painting a bunch of woodwork white (hopefully glossy and somewhat matching the fiberglass gel coat) so I'll have the dowels painted then. I'll just put some wooden reinforcements behind the fiberglass above and below the dowels so they don't just end up punching round holes in my kitchen furniture! Then just bolts from top and bottom.

I was thinking brushed metal would be ideal, so who knows, I'm not committed to the dowels. Brushed metal to match the sink would really be nice. I hope to swap the stove for brushed metal or a flush mounted one with the glass cover if I can fit it. Now it's tan which other than the rat fur, nothing else in the trailer is.
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Old 07-07-2012, 06:32 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Roy in TO View Post
Looks too tall. Here is one currently on ebay that is 19" tall. Currently @ $1.00 and located on the west coast.

Attachment 48649

Or you could just use a fiberglass mannequin leg.
OK, someone do this!!! It's not in keeping with my modern look. But someone with a more whimsical theme for their trailer really should incorporate the leg lamp!!!
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Old 07-07-2012, 08:05 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by AbitWhitty View Post
I just took mine off. I don't think if you put anything crazy heavy in the upper cabinet you are going to have trouble. My dad is an engineer and said they are mostly there for looks. If you load up the cabinets, then yes, they might help a bit he said. Otherwise, just remove them. I did. I doubt the roof will cave in.
Not sure I'm comfortable doing that. Probably would be ok, but one big crack in roof would be very, very unpleasant to deal with. Not feeling like taking that chance.
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Old 07-07-2012, 09:42 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by AbitWhitty View Post
I just took mine off. I don't think if you put anything crazy heavy in the upper cabinet you are going to have trouble. My dad is an engineer and said they are mostly there for looks. If you load up the cabinets, then yes, they might help a bit he said. Otherwise, just remove them. I did. I doubt the roof will cave in.
Whitney take a look at post #16 that trailer belong to a long time fiberglass trailer owner who said the same thing..... he is not the only one that I know of that has happened to...... there was nothing in the upper cabinets when the roof caved....
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Old 07-07-2012, 09:48 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Carol H View Post
Whitney take a look at post #16 that trailer belong to a long time fiberglass trailer owner who said the same thing..... he is not the only one that I know of that has happened to...... there was nothing in the upper cabinets when the roof caved....
Thinking about just how flexible (or put another way, WEAK) I found my roof to be when I took off the old roof vent I think I'll take all the reinforcement I can get.

This describes the added roof support I put in to help take the flex and sag out.
New Fantastic Fan going in...
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Old 07-07-2012, 09:52 PM   #37
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I'm curious what they use for reinforcement on roof AC equipped Scamp 13s. Because I sure hope those roofs are dramatically stronger than mine.

I'm curious is perhaps I have a factory second. My roof vent was very unstraight, the sag was pronounced when the vent was removed. I wonder if there was a weak spot in my roof and the strange vent angle was done to make the best of that defect. I'm happy with my reinforcement, but wonder if all Scamps have roofs that uneven and flexible.
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Old 07-07-2012, 11:01 PM   #38
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I live in sunny Northern California and only camp in mild weather (no snow for me). Mostly beach camping. I'll take my chances...but thanks for the feedback. If the entire roof of the Scamp is held up by two twisted metal bars I've got more to worry about than I thought. Lol! If you don't live on the edge...you are taking up too much room. .
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Old 07-08-2012, 10:47 AM   #39
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LOL Whitney the issue is that the fiberglass on most makes of fiberglass trailers is that its not very thick so it bends, so if you decide you need to fix something on the roof or wax the roof be sure not to put any weight on it. Also dont forget to tell who ever you sell it to in the future that you have removed them so they know not to put anything on the roof or take it anywhere near snow.

Here is another thread with photos of a cracked Bigfoot and a Scamp.

I am all for living on the edge - I help people do it 100 plus days a year check out this video which was made of the last time I did it, go to the 4:45 min mark to see just how far on the edge ...some of them are totally blind.... interestingly the first 4:45 min of the video is actually dedicated to those who help to make sure those who are living on the edge do it safely so they can live to do it another day.
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Old 07-08-2012, 12:53 PM   #40
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Nice work! Between my rat fur and twisted bar removal you must think I'm a real Scampin' Rebel!
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Old 07-08-2012, 05:56 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AbitWhitty View Post
Nice work! Between my rat fur and twisted bar removal you must think I'm a real Scampin' Rebel!
LOL trust me as you can see from my world it takes a bit more to be a rebel but always happy to see a rebel reach their goal
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Old 07-08-2012, 07:50 PM   #42
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Thankfully, we can make all our own decisions on the level of risk we want to take.

I don't like risking the considerable time and money I have in my Scamp. I don't particularly trust my roof's strength. I think I can make a support that I don't find visually objectionable.
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