Crimping Battery Cable Lugs

[Carl G]

Has anyone used one of the crimpers that employes the use of a hammer to achieve the crimp? I am going to have to make 4/0 AWG cables that will run from the exterior battery compartment on my Lil Bigfoot, through Anchor wire seals and into the cabin of the trailer, where they will be connected to my converter. Therefore, the lugs will have to be crimped at the trailer. I cannot afford to purchase the larger, 360 degree hydraulic crimpers. I've read mixed reviews online from boat owners, welders, etc. Some say that good crimps can be made with this type of tool and show pictures of what look to be good results, but others say to stay away from this type of tool.

Thanks,
Carl

[Rick n]

Originally Posted by Carl G

Has anyone used one of the crimpers that employes the use of a hammer to achieve the crimp? I am going to have to make 4/0 AWG cables that will run from the exterior battery compartment on my Lil Bigfoot, through Anchor wire seals and into the cabin of the trailer, where they will be connected to my converter. Therefore, the lugs will have to be crimped at the trailer. I cannot afford to purchase the larger, 360 degree hydraulic crimpers. I've read mixed reviews online from boat owners, welders, etc. Some say that good crimps can be made with this type of tool and show pictures of what look to be good results, but others say to stay away from this type of tool.

Thanks,
Carl

If the crimp is done correctly and you heat shrink it, it will last for 20 years and more.
The key as with any build or repair is to follow instructions of the tool and don't rush it. If you're not happy with the first or second try cut the pieces off and try again.

I've been using these kinds of crimps on electric forklifts for 25 years and I've yet to see one done correctly fail, if you're not sure stop into a forklift company in your area and ask one of the shop guys for help my guess is they'll be happy to give you a demonstration or do the crimping for you.

GL.

[Carl G]

Thank you Rick,

What are your thoughts on a crimping tool for 10-20 AWG wire. Will a good crimping tool from Greenlee, Chanellock, Knipex etc do the job or does one need one of the more expensive ratchet style tools like the one from Ancor.

Thanks,
Carl

[Roy in TO]

Or you can simply get it done through ebay,
Genuinedealz items - Get great deals on Custom Cable Assembly items on eBay Stores!

Though I have not ordered from them, the prices seem reasonable. They have a 100% positive feedback rating with over 23,000 transactions.

[Bill K]

I have the ratchet crimper from Ancor and it sure is easier to use and does a good job.
My hands are not as strong as they use to be.

Bill K

Originally Posted by Carl G

Thank you Rick,

What are your thoughts on a crimping tool for 10-20 AWG wire. Will a good crimping tool from Greenlee, Chanellock, Knipex etc do the job or does one need one of the more expensive ratchet style tools like the one from Ancor.

Thanks,
Carl

[Darwin Maring]

Harborfreight.com sells both the hydraulic crimper and a smaller Ratchet crimper for smaller wires.

They have items On Sale all the time so you should be able to find what you want for a lower price.

The Ratchet crimper is the absolute best crimper you will ever use because it ratchets and does not release until the crimp is complete. Other crimper that do not ratchet will loosen when you release your grip to get a better grip thus not giving a precise crimp.

The rule of crimping: Crimp only once because a second crimp may loosen the first crimp. This right out of the Milspec book. Never (Tin) with solder because should the wire get hot it may melt the solder and loosen the crimp, Milspec also.

Heat Shrink will enhance the project. I always heat shrink.

Search results for: 'hydraulic crimper'

Ratcheting Crimping Tool

[Steve C.]

Originally Posted by Carl G

Has anyone used one of the crimpers that employes the use of a hammer to achieve the crimp? I am going to have to make 4/0 AWG cables that will run from the exterior battery compartment on my Lil Bigfoot, through Anchor wire seals and into the cabin of the trailer, where they will be connected to my converter. Therefore, the lugs will have to be crimped at the trailer. I cannot afford to purchase the larger, 360 degree hydraulic crimpers. I've read mixed reviews online from boat owners, welders, etc. Some say that good crimps can be made with this type of tool and show pictures of what look to be good results, but others say to stay away from this type of tool.

Thanks,
Carl

I used a hammer crimper on my heavy gauge cables then heated the lugs with a propane torch and flowed rosin core solder into the joint. Seems very secure to me - the crimp provides mechanical connection and the solder fills and seals any voids. Heat shrink was applied as well.

Several years have passed and all the connections look like new.

Steve.

[Perry J]

Hi Carl,
I'm curious as to what is going to create such a large draw on you battery that would require such heavy gauge wire?
I moved the battery from the tongue to the inside of my Scamp and as I remember the line to the converter was only 10 gauge.
In the past 5 years I have refurbished 8 or 9 Fiberglass trailers and have never seen such heavy gauge wire used.
Several of them I had to completely rewire the entire 12V system.
John

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by Perry J

Hi Carl,
I'm curious as to what is going to create such a large draw on you battery that would require such heavy gauge wire?
I moved the battery from the tongue to the inside of my Scamp and as I remember the line to the converter was only 10 gauge.
In the past 5 years I have refurbished 8 or 9 Fiberglass trailers and have never seen such heavy gauge wire used.
Several of them I had to completely rewire the entire 12V system.
John

Maybe he's motorizing his Scamp and needs it to start? )

Byron

[Byron Kinnaman]

WOW! What in world are you doing that requires that much current. That wire is capable of 380 Amps. Enough to do some pretty good welding.

Byron

[RSchleder]

Why not a smaller, more appropriate sized wire, crimped then soldered?

[Carl G]

My error - I am using 4 AWG wire, not 4/0. Sorry for the confusion. This is the minimum gauge I need to avoid problems with voltage drop between the converter/charger and the battery.

[Perry J]

Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman

Maybe he's motorizing his Scamp and needs it to start? )

Byron

John

[Joe MacDonald]

measure off the length you need, get the crimp ends and go to any large electrical contractor or wholesale outlet, they should be willing to do a few crimps with the hydraulic crimper for little or nothing. Most wholesalers would consider this a demo, and you might buy a roll or two of tape or some heat shrink or even the crimp ends while you're there.

Joe

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by Carl G

My error - I am using 4 AWG wire, not 4/0. Sorry for the confusion. This is the minimum gauge I need to avoid problems with voltage drop between the converter/charger and the battery.

I would suggest that you really look at voltage drops vs length vs wire size. The difference between 4 AWG and 10 or 12 AWG I doubt is worth the difference in cost.

I just made the calculations for you 4 AWG with 10' wire you'll drop about 50 milivolts. 12 AWG about 300 milivolts. With 10 AWG it about 100 milivolts.
Not worth the additional cost. That's assuming a 20 amp current flow. I doubt you ever get more than 4 amps flowing between the converter and the battery so you can divide those number by 5 to a more realistic voltage drop.

Absolutely nothing in your trailer is that sensitive to voltage drops.

Byron