curtains - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-10-2013, 10:36 AM   #29
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If you can't use shades, then it is curtains for all of us.
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:16 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Gilda View Post
Deryk,
The new Scamps have Jalousie side windows with knob handles. I wonder if there is a way for you to replace the crank handle with a knob type.
Gilda
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Originally Posted by Ryan P R View Post
The issue is the crank handles. I can get these shades without cutout area for the handles, but they look bad and the pleats don't run parallel when a section of the fabric is cut out.
On our Boler 1700 we replaced all the jalousie window cranks and our vent cranks with the flat knob handles. They seem compatible with almost any crank out there. We got them at Escape trailers in Chilliwack, BC, but I have seen them at a few other RV dealerships/stores. They let our drapes stay flat and kept me from hitting my head on the vent!
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:29 PM   #31
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Perhaps I used the wrong word, I do have the "flat" round type of cranks on my windows. But they still project from the windows an inch or more.

Not the end of the world, but I would like something that lays perfectly flat over the window.

It seems I'll just have to notch out whatever I end up using to allow it sit flat against the window frame while the knob's shaft runs though the notch.

My kids are not early risers, they typically get up around 7/7:30, bed time is at 8pm. When we go camping they stay up late. They are excited to wake up and play, so as soon as they see daylight slipping from behind the shades the get out of bed. The result of staying THEM staying up late and waking up early is general grumpiness and unpleasantness. A 1" gap at the edge of a blackout shade is all it takes.

On our 24' stick trailer, I had to resort to swapping the room darkening shades out for black out shades, PLUS I had to Velcro them to the sides and bottom of the window. I also made thin wooden covers to Velcro to the 3 ceiling vents. Our big dinette window that only had a room darkening shade (not blackout) had to have a heavy quilt draped over it. It may seem extreme, but those of you that have children that only wake up early for "special days" should understand.
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:57 PM   #32
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I have found two shaft lengths on the six sided knobs. One is much shorter then the other.
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:48 PM   #33
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You can sew magnets into the edges of curtains that have a heavy liner on them to keep them close to the frame and reduce light creeping in as well.
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:08 PM   #34
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Sounds like you are getting some good ideas. In addition, some people cut bubble foil insulation(Reflectix, ARMAFoil, RadiantGuard, Polarlum, Ecofoil,) to the size of the inside frame of the window. If you combine that with a length of Ron-Loc (black out curtain liner) that extends over the window frame, held with velcro, you will have 100% light blockage.

I use "rubberized flannel" (think crib pad for a baby) with Velcro to block light from the ceiling vents.

Do keep in mind, though, when you block out all light you are also blocking out all air. I like to keep at least one window open a crack for air circulation.

If the children are sleeping in the bunk area you could put up black out curtains on the interior suspended from the ceiling or from the upper bunk and black out the front window, thereby allowing some air flow.

Good luck with your solution and...
Happy Camping!
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Old 03-20-2013, 12:32 AM   #35
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How big a difference is there between the room darkening and the blackout? From inside and from outside looking in?
In addition to "Black Out" shades over the windows, I have "5% Limo Dark" film on the glass. IF you can close the gaps around the edges, then with this combination the "Black Out" shades live up to their name. I literally cannot see my hand in front of my face in the bed area. I tested this in 5:00 afternoon daylight.

My old-school door has a tall skinny window in it, too skinny for roller shades; they don't make them 16" wide by 42" long. I had to settle for "Room Darkening" mini-blinds. Those combined with "5% Limo Dark" film on the glass only allow minimal light into the kitchen area. I can dimly see the window's light through the covering when standing in front of it. The refrigerator/pantry cabinet blocks sight lines between the pillow area of the bed and the door area, and so little light does get through the door-window that the bed area is totally black.

One additional thing:
When I installed my Fantastic Fan, I saved the 14" x 14" piece of fiberglass from the hole I cut in the Fiber Stream's roof. I installed cupboard door magnets to the Fan's "Garnish" and the metal plates and a cupboard door knob to the piece of fiberglass. I now have a solid cover for the inside of the fan that totally blocks that source of light too.

After nightfall I turned on every light in the trailer, closed the shades and blinds, and went outside to look at the trailer. All of the windows were black as if the trailer were unoccupied; no light from inside got through.
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Old 03-20-2013, 08:19 AM   #36
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WTG Fred! Its funny, I do like it dark like a tomb when I sleep... otherwise let the light in! I bought 2 sets of the blackout curtains at walmart. They are cut just need to stitch a few edges...got the clips for cubicle walls.

Going camping this weekend if the snow forcast upstate NY doesn't look too scary...if it does I might just go down to my friends place and hang with him for the weekend and get to run my generator lol... but want to test them out. Anything will be an improvement. The fantastic fan is right over my bed and bright and earlier then I want to be awake the sun shines in and says "Get the F up" LOL
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:58 AM   #37
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I forgot to say...

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Originally Posted by Frederick L. Simson View Post
In addition to "Black Out" shades over the windows, I have "5% Limo Dark" film on the glass. IF you can close the gaps around the edges...

My old-school door has a tall skinny window in it, too skinny for roller shades; they don't make them 16" wide by 42" long. I had to settle for "Room Darkening" mini-blinds. Those combined with "5% Limo Dark" film on the glass only allow minimal light into the kitchen area.
The kitchen window has the upper kitchen cabinet directly above it. The front window has the "Child's Bunk" directly above it. These act as light blocks for the gap behind the top of the roller shade. On the other side windows I added a 4" x 48" shelf over the windows that are hidden by the top hem of the closed curtains.

To hold the shades against the wall I added Command Picture Hanging Strips to the bottom of the shade and the wall below the window. These act like Velcro and don't fall apart like Velcro does after several years use.

I also have "Shade Screen" material in all of my window screens. This makes multiple layers to accomplish total black-out inside.
  • Shade cloth screens
  • 5% Limo Dark glass film
  • "Black-out" roller shades
  • Solid barrier over each window
  • Command Strips to hold shade against the wall
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Old 03-20-2013, 12:12 PM   #38
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Folks, a little off the subject of Black Out, but still about curtains... I have always tried to cover and protect my little camper because of leaks. Just found that the new curtains I have installed contain Mildew...UGH! So my line of thought for now is to use something washable, like plastic roll up shades or blinds. Figuring out how to install will be the trick. Just a thought.
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Old 03-20-2013, 12:47 PM   #39
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Have been thinking about roller shades and cutting something to velcro on the windows for extra darkening if I need it. I know I will need different hardware than the curtain rods that come with the Scamp. Will I need to rivet them in thru the fiberglass wall to attach them. Is there a secure way to fasten them when traveling so they aren't flapping? I have a whole lot of bounce to my trailer - which is another whole thread...
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Old 03-20-2013, 08:52 PM   #40
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Diane,
Because these little eggs do retain moisture and condensation at times the best curtains in this environment are 100% synthetic. The curtains that come in new Scamps are synthetic. You can often find print or solid color fabric curtains made for showers that fit the bill. Otherwise, this type of fabric is difficult to find in most home sewing stores. I have chosen to keep the original Scamp curtains, which are an off-white and let in light, in my Scamp and add a decorative touch with side panels made of cotton or a blend. Because I change up the side panels depending on my decorative theme frequently I expect that they will not deteriorate too badly. Note: I do line my curtain panels as well. You might just need to choose between decor (cotton) or strength (100% synthetic). See photos.
Happy Camping,
Gilda
Attached Thumbnails
SCAMP Interior October 2011 012.jpg   SCAMP Interior October 2011 019.jpg  

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Old 03-20-2013, 09:28 PM   #41
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Diane and Jan,
Please refer to my previous post to see photos of the black-out window "shade" that I use that requires no new hardware installation! I simply cut a piece of Ron-Loc (black out liner for curtains, available at most home sewing stores). The Ron-Loc is cut exactly the distance between the curtain rod supports. The length of the Ron-Loc is longer than the height of the window (you want overlap and space to make the casings) I sewed a 1" casing on the top and on the bottom. Through the top casing I put a wood dowel (or adjustable curtain rod, or an old camping tent bar, etc.) that is longer than the space between the curtain rod holders. On the bottom casing I sewed three, 3" pieces of the hook side of Velcro to attach to the "rat fur" walls. If you run the Velcro all the way across the bottom you will block out more light, but it will be more difficult to remove as it holds tight.

Put the dowel through the top casing. Place the dowel on top of the curtain rod holders. (It will be held in place by the curtains on the rods.) Attach the bottom of the "shade" with the Velcro. Place the curtains on the curtain rod.

When you want the windows open you open the "shade" by unlocking the Velcro on the bottom and rolling up the "shade" onto the dowel by hand. (There is no mechanism in these "shades".) The shade will stay in the upright position while you are camping in the parked position. When you want darkness unroll the shade, keeping the dowel on top of the curtain rod supports, and connect the Velcro to the rat fur. Keep the shade in the down position while traveling and they won't fall off.

You eliminate the major cause of discoloration of fabric by blocking out the sun with these shades. Therefore it is a good idea to keep them in the down (black-out) position when you store your camper trailer.

'Hope my description helps you.

Happy Camping!
Gilda
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Old 03-23-2013, 11:55 AM   #42
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Two thoughts here...I think the best solution to type of shade for a fiberglass interior wall is the "Baby" roll up sun blocker shades. Think about it. They are lightweight and are attached with suction cups. Have found some wider made for trucks. I think we should send the makers a note with our dimension requests.
The other thought is: You can take a can of spray glue and some material cut to fit any roller shade. Glue it on. Any shade can be a Black out shade. The black out shades cost more, just FYI.
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