I have to echo everyone's sentiments and say 'Wow'!
I love the front table mod. How much trouble was it to remove the bathoom and then patch over the floor, wall, etc.? Were you able to remove the bathroom intact or did you destroy it upon removal.
We've got an '89 16' and depending on usage patterns this season, I may attempt something like what you've done with the bathroom in order to open it up. Brilliant job.
I appreciate all of the wonderful response from everyone. I hope that all of the pics we post will help everyone who owns or is thinking about buying one of these eggs to understand that they don't come without consequences, or that it's not impossible to do the kind of work/mods that we did on our own. I may be a bit more mechanically inclined than the average owner, but this kind of work still isn't that hard, just time intensive. For the most part I think that most of the people here would look at it the way we did, it's a labor of love, not an investment. We hope that this camper will last at least another 20 years.
Here's a shot of the cabs after they were removed. Getting the bathroom out was a little difficult and resulted in a little bit of cracking, but it's repairable. I don't think I could ship it so if anyone wants it they would have to come and get it.
The next two shots are a view of the inside with the fiberglass patching on all of the rivet holes that we decided we didn't want in the hull anymore. Note the white powder appearance in the second picture along the vertical rivet line for the bathroom cab. That's water stains from where there was water intrusion past the rivets. The white powder around the upper cab overhead rivet line was dust from a regrind after glassing the holes shut. we wanted to provide as smooth of a surface as possible for reattachment points later.
The pic here shows how we cut the bathroom floor back to match with the cabinet floor profile of the stove. We built up a stub wall between the stove cab and the front couch cab to create the base for the new couch/seating area.
This pic shows the closet cab after it was glued in with 3m 5200 marine adhesive.We used the original rivet holes to bolt the cab to the hull with the adhesive in place. We gave the adhesive a full week to ensure complete cure, and then we fiberglassed the cabinets to the hull on both sides of the attachment point (inside the cabinet and out). This method made the insulation and rat fur installation a bit difficult but it allowed for a mostly rivet free camper. We figured the fewer holes the less likely there would be leaks
down the road.