Dan Passmore's Winter Mods - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-04-2008, 01:12 PM   #15
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I have to echo everyone's sentiments and say 'Wow'!

I love the front table mod. How much trouble was it to remove the bathoom and then patch over the floor, wall, etc.? Were you able to remove the bathroom intact or did you destroy it upon removal.

We've got an '89 16' and depending on usage patterns this season, I may attempt something like what you've done with the bathroom in order to open it up. Brilliant job.

Todd

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Old 03-04-2008, 05:25 PM   #16
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I have to echo everyone's sentiments and say 'Wow'!

I love the front table mod. How much trouble was it to remove the bathoom and then patch over the floor, wall, etc.? Were you able to remove the bathroom intact or did you destroy it upon removal.

We've got an '89 16' and depending on usage patterns this season, I may attempt something like what you've done with the bathroom in order to open it up. Brilliant job.

Todd
I appreciate all of the wonderful response from everyone. I hope that all of the pics we post will help everyone who owns or is thinking about buying one of these eggs to understand that they don't come without consequences, or that it's not impossible to do the kind of work/mods that we did on our own. I may be a bit more mechanically inclined than the average owner, but this kind of work still isn't that hard, just time intensive. For the most part I think that most of the people here would look at it the way we did, it's a labor of love, not an investment. We hope that this camper will last at least another 20 years.

Here's a shot of the cabs after they were removed. Getting the bathroom out was a little difficult and resulted in a little bit of cracking, but it's repairable. I don't think I could ship it so if anyone wants it they would have to come and get it.


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The next two shots are a view of the inside with the fiberglass patching on all of the rivet holes that we decided we didn't want in the hull anymore. Note the white powder appearance in the second picture along the vertical rivet line for the bathroom cab. That's water stains from where there was water intrusion past the rivets. The white powder around the upper cab overhead rivet line was dust from a regrind after glassing the holes shut. we wanted to provide as smooth of a surface as possible for reattachment points later.

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The pic here shows how we cut the bathroom floor back to match with the cabinet floor profile of the stove. We built up a stub wall between the stove cab and the front couch cab to create the base for the new couch/seating area.

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This pic shows the closet cab after it was glued in with 3m 5200 marine adhesive.We used the original rivet holes to bolt the cab to the hull with the adhesive in place. We gave the adhesive a full week to ensure complete cure, and then we fiberglassed the cabinets to the hull on both sides of the attachment point (inside the cabinet and out). This method made the insulation and rat fur installation a bit difficult but it allowed for a mostly rivet free camper. We figured the fewer holes the less likely there would be leaks down the road.

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Old 04-13-2008, 07:48 AM   #17
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We've got most of our pictures sorted out now and I put together a slideshow of sorts.

Slideshow
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Old 04-13-2008, 03:38 PM   #18
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Looks outstanding, Dan! I'm not even going to try to think about all the work involved.
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Old 04-13-2008, 03:45 PM   #19
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Did you use handy-panels for your doors or did you glue them up yourself? I have had trouble with pine cabinet doors wanting to warp. How did you avoid that? The cabinets are beautiful. Do you know how much weight you added by going with wood instead of the fiberglass?
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Old 04-13-2008, 05:16 PM   #20
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Well done and a joy to watch.

Bonnie
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Old 04-13-2008, 09:55 PM   #21
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Looks outstanding, Dan! I'm not even going to try to think about all the work involved.

Rough guess...... between myself and the wife we've got around 1500-2000 hrs.


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Did you use handy-panels for your doors or did you glue them up yourself? I have had trouble with pine cabinet doors wanting to warp. How did you avoid that? The cabinets are beautiful. Do you know how much weight you added by going with wood instead of the fiberglass?

Russ... We used edge-glued panels that are pre-planned from the local Menards. Cut to size, sand, and varnish. These panels are well dried but you have to pick through the stacks to get good flat ones. A complete seal coat of spar varnish was my choice. Actually it's 4 total coats on the doors on all sides. The pine on the cabs got one coat with a spray spar before installation, and then there's 2 coats of hand spar, and 3 coats of spray spar, Helmsmans clear gloss on the exterior face.
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