Darwin ?... LP Detector - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-07-2016, 10:55 PM   #1
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Name: Ginny
Trailer: '09 Scamp 13' w/ Bath
Oklahoma
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Darwin ?... LP Detector

So, I am not trying to get myself blown up... so forgive this Darwin-Award level question.

If a LP Detector were so needed/recommended, why wouldn't Scamp install them @ the factory? It requires hard wiring to the trailer (not something simple like a smoke or Co2 detector than can be added using 9v batteries).

There are many many Scamp owners who are not on this forum, and/or are not 'handy' enough to do something like hard wire a detector.

Do I need one? I really don't feel comfortable getting into that level of wiring. I have happily added a smoke and Co2 detector.

What gives?? If it is such a scary, necessary thing... don't you think they should come standard?

Any insight is appreciated.
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Old 08-08-2016, 01:43 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by fieldphoto View Post
So, I am not trying to get myself blown up... so forgive this Darwin-Award level question.
Do I need one? I really don't feel comfortable getting into that level of wiring. I have happily added a smoke and Co2 detector.
What gives?? If it is such a scary, necessary thing... don't you think they should come standard?
Any insight is appreciated.
MMM, my '06 Casita came with a factory installed hard wired LP monitor. I have installed a switch to turn it off when the TT is not being used to save the battery draw. There are battery powered LP units out there if you don't want to do any wiring. No idea if they are required in RVs but certainly a good item to have working in your favor. It wasn't that long ago that CO monitors were required in homes.
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Old 08-08-2016, 01:56 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fieldphoto View Post
So, I am not trying to get myself blown up... so forgive this Darwin-Award level question.

If a LP Detector were so needed/recommended, why wouldn't Scamp install them @ the factory? It requires hard wiring to the trailer (not something simple like a smoke or Co2 detector than can be added using 9v batteries).

There are many many Scamp owners who are not on this forum, and/or are not 'handy' enough to do something like hard wire a detector.

Do I need one? I really don't feel comfortable getting into that level of wiring. I have happily added a smoke and Co2 detector.

What gives?? If it is such a scary, necessary thing... don't you think they should come standard?

Any insight is appreciated.
If you don't feel comfortable installing one yourself any RV shop can do it. I doubt it's very expensive. Call around to get quotes.
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Old 08-08-2016, 07:01 AM   #4
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Trailer: Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
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Originally Posted by fieldphoto View Post
...

If a LP Detector were so needed/recommended, why wouldn't Scamp install them @ the factory? ...
$$$$$ pure & simple.

But they absolutely should offer it as an option. Trouble is... if they did, then people would start asking why a safety item was not standard equipment. Then they would have to put them is all the campers and raise the price ~$75-100.


This is the one I got:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FLLWGA

It really is pretty easy to install so perhaps you have a friend or family member who can help if you don't want to pay a shop to do it. It takes so little power you can pretty much tap in anywhere although I put it on it's own fuse from the panel to reduce the chance of wiring problems.
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Old 08-08-2016, 08:48 AM   #5
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Name: Ginny
Trailer: '09 Scamp 13' w/ Bath
Oklahoma
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Thanks for the replies.

I don't mind re-wiring and upgrading things, but I haven't done a lot of 'new' wiring before- thus my hesitation. For example, I am replacing my headlights with LED, but I am just connecting new lights to existing wiring, I am not running NEW wiring.

Dave,
You mention battery powered ones, I assume you mean powered by the 12v battery... not a 9v disposable? I can't find any ones that are set up like smoke/co2 detectors.

If I am wiring this, just to understand, I will have to find a panel/empty space on the fiberglass where there is some wiring behind the panel. Drill a hole, splice in some wires, and then mount the unit. Correct? (I know that is an oversimplification- I just want to start with the basics!)

I will call my local RV shop and see what they would charge as well, just to know my options.
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Old 08-08-2016, 09:06 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by fieldphoto View Post
..

If I am wiring this, just to understand, I will have to find a panel/empty space on the fiberglass where there is some wiring behind the panel. Drill a hole, splice in some wires, and then mount the unit. Correct? (I know that is an oversimplification- I just want to start with the basics!)..

Basically that is it. There are both flush mount and surface mount varieties. I think there is a flush mount that is meant to replace some preexisting, but expired, built-in (flush mount) ones. That is to say that the rough-in hole is the same size. If you are doing a new install you would need to do the larger rough-in cut.

I choose the surface mount. It is an easier first time install. It does stick out a little more but it's only 1.5 inches. The surface mount only requires a small hole for the wires and is screwed down but maybe could be attached with VHB tape. The manual is here. Pay attention to location (near the floor - see the manual!).

If you don't have a master battery switch then you could add a switch to stop the detector from slowly but surly discharging your battery. But then you might forgot to turn it on when it is most needed. A master battery switch is a better idea (provides other benefits also), and anytime you have the valve on the propane tank on, then also have the battery master on and the propane detector powered on.
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Old 08-08-2016, 09:52 PM   #7
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Ok, alternate solution?

Under my sink there is a recepticle. One of the plugs is occupied with what I assume is the fridge. The other plug is empty.

What if I purchased a plug in unit like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-KN-COEG...p+gas+detector

Could I just plug it in, and run the cord right outside the door, and velcro it to one of the small doors that sits under the sink?

Only issue I see here is that it would be very close to the fridge and heater. (Though honestly, EVERYTHING in a 13' scamp is close to the fridge and heater lol)

Thoughts?
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Old 08-09-2016, 01:50 AM   #8
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Name: Dave
Trailer: Casita SD17 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fieldphoto View Post
Thanks for the replies.

I don't mind re-wiring and upgrading things, but I haven't done a lot of 'new' wiring before- thus my hesitation. For example, I am replacing my headlights with LED, but I am just connecting new lights to existing wiring, I am not running NEW wiring.

Dave,
You mention battery powered ones, I assume you mean powered by the 12v battery... not a 9v disposable? I can't find any ones that are set up like smoke/co2 detectors.

If I am wiring this, just to understand, I will have to find a panel/empty space on the fiberglass where there is some wiring behind the panel. Drill a hole, splice in some wires, and then mount the unit. Correct? (I know that is an oversimplification- I just want to start with the basics!)

I will call my local RV shop and see what they would charge as well, just to know my options.

Ginny, guess I have egg on my face , after going back and digging deeper, the battery power is only as a back up to 110V plug in units. There may be a 9V battery detector out there like the smoke alarms but...........
Picking up the 12V house power to feed your detector should be easy, it's small gauge wire. Biggest thing is the proper location off the floor.
One demerit for me .
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Old 08-09-2016, 07:37 AM   #9
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fieldphoto View Post
Ok, alternate solution?

Under my sink there is a recepticle. One of the plugs is occupied with what I assume is the fridge. The other plug is empty.

What if I purchased a plug in unit like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-KN-COEG...p+gas+detector

Could I just plug it in, and run the cord right outside the door, and velcro it to one of the small doors that sits under the sink?

Only issue I see here is that it would be very close to the fridge and heater. (Though honestly, EVERYTHING in a 13' scamp is close to the fridge and heater lol)

Thoughts?
IMHO, you should get one that operates off 12 volts (shore power via converter AND / OR battery only). The one you linked to will ONLY work when plugged into 120 volt AC shore power (except maybe for a very short time before the battery backup is discharged). Its all in the Q&A for the product at Amazon.
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Old 08-09-2016, 10:13 AM   #10
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Name: Ginny
Trailer: '09 Scamp 13' w/ Bath
Oklahoma
Posts: 97
Gordon,
You are absolutely right. I didn't think that all the way thru! Obviously only shore power would mean it was on battery all the rest of the time... in my driveway, driving down the road... etc.

FWIW, Kidde says the battery backup will last 1 day

So I ordered this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

After I get the brakes and tail lights worked out I will talk to you all about how to actually do the wiring.
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