Day/Night window coverings? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-13-2018, 05:19 PM   #1
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Day/Night window coverings?

We want to replace our drapes and blackout shades with day/night window coverings, like this style.

https://www.recpro.com/interior-part...an-stitchbond/

Saw them for the 1st time in Durango, Co at the Casita gathering. I am looking for suggestions as to best brands and or manufacturers.Would rather take recommendations from fellow FG enthusiasts than believe online advertising.
Thanks,
Mark
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Old 06-13-2018, 07:04 PM   #2
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How do you look out the window with those? I don't see how they lift out of the way.
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Old 06-13-2018, 07:34 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Alex Adams View Post
How do you look out the window with those? I don't see how they lift out of the way.
The shades go up and down, top to bottom. if you want no shade you bring both up. if you want partial sight obstruction you bring the day 1/2 down. If you want complete sight obstruction ie black out, you bring the night shade down. I am no expert but have looked at a couple videos. I like the concept but don't want to buy crap.

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Old 06-14-2018, 11:52 AM   #4
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The installation video shows screwing fittings into the wall. How do you do that with a Casita?
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Old 06-14-2018, 06:49 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by wilyoung View Post
The installation video shows screwing fittings into the wall. How do you do that with a Casita?
I plan on doing business with a company that can hang the blinds on hardware that can attach to the current window frame. Casita has hardware that works with their stock blinds, I bet others can developed hardware that is adaptable. Just gotta find the right manufacturer.
I will let you know when I get the right answer to,my feelers.
Mark
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Old 06-14-2018, 07:48 PM   #6
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I've also seen day/night blinds where the light blind pulls down, and the blackout blind pulls up.

they are generally fully boxed so no light gets around the sides.
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Old 06-14-2018, 07:49 PM   #7
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Why don't you make your own adapter plates to hook the brackets to the window frame?

Watch a youtube video on how to bend aluminum sheet metal. It does not take a lot of tools and you don't have to go to trade school to learn how to do it. Watch this video. You don't even need the vise, you can just screw the 2 x 4 together, slip the metal in, tighten the screws and clamp the 2 x 4 s to a wood picnic table top.

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Old 06-14-2018, 10:30 PM   #8
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Hi Mark,
Gilda (Jill-da), the Gleeful Glamper here. There are more attractive, more functional, easier to do and less costly solutions to managing light in your camper. Personally, I like to look out my windows and to have privacy day and night. The solution I'll show you does all that and provides some insulation from cold and heat. Although I have a Scamp I think this window covering can work for your Casita as well.

The attached photos show a break-down of my combination of window shade (to keep out light and provide insulation) and curtains (which provide soft light). The shade is a simple rectangle of Roc-Lon (blackout fabric available at your local fabric store or online. You may also use a pre-made blackout curtain cut and sewn to size.) cut to the width of the space between your curtain rod brackets and longer than the length of your windows. Sew a "pocket" for the rod or dowel at the top end and a pocket with hook (Velcro) strap pieces at the bottom end. The Velcro hooks attach to the rat fur, keeping the shade close to the window. The rod or dowel should be at least one inch wider than the space between the curtain rod brackets as it rests on top of the two brackets. To roll up the shade, simply hand-roll up and place the rolled shade on top of the brackets. I roll out the shade at night while sleeping to block out most light. I often keep the shades rolled down during the day to keep the trailer cool in hot weather and insulated in cold weather while I am away. I also keep the shades rolled down while towing and while the trailer is stored thereby preventing fading of interior fabrics. Note: I have found that an adjustable spring-tension rod works well on the shorter side windows. The center back window has about a 45" span and needs a rod that is quite stiff so it will not bend. I have not, yet, found the best solution. A firm tent rod works reasonably well.

I kept the original creme-colored curtains, as they let in just enough soft light, and hang those between the curtain brackets. I made narrow curtain end panels of a fabric (or fabrics) to add a touch of beauty to the trailer decor. These panels are hung on the OUTSIDE edges of the curtain rod.
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SCAMP Interior October 2011 010.jpg   SCAMP Interior October 2011 019.jpg  

SCAMP Interior October 2011 012.jpg  
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Old 06-16-2018, 11:59 AM   #9
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I love seeing what everyone does in their trailers.

I made double-thick fleece flat curtain panels that go on a normal curtain rod (already installed in Peanut when we got it) and clip to the bottom of the window frame with magnets--one on each corner of the window frame area, one in each corner of the lower curtain hem. Then I have Velcro ties at the top and can roll them up out of the way, sort of fold them into "bowties" or Vs or half-window coverings...the curtain rods have enough iron in t hem that the magnets stick to them as well as the other magnets.

Simple photos:

rolled up, let down, and bowtie shown.

They insulate surprisingly well, are warm and dry on the inside even if the windows are icy. They dim the light from outside but do let us know when it's daytime.

We manage fine with our once cheap, thin fleece IKEA lap throws turned into curtains.

When they wear out or whatever, who knows?

Apparently our plexiglass windows are dark and act like privacy shields unless we have the lights on inside...


Good luck whatever you choose. These do look nice and up-to-date with current new trailer window covers...The video wouldn't show pictures for us, but the sound was good.

BEST
Kai
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Peanut 10 2015 to 6 2016 055.JPG   Peanut 10 2015 to 6 2016 085.jpg  

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Old 07-01-2018, 09:41 AM   #10
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Gilda, after I bought the Casita last Sept, I removed the Venetian blinds and installed yours. My wife did not like the look and the difficulty rolling the black out shades.

I ordered from American Blinds, Legacy Blackout Cellular Shade, custom made to our measurements and colors/material.

The blinds come with hook downs but I have not figured out how to attach to rat fur.

I used existing screw holes in window frame and added 1/2 spacers to allow window to open and close without hitting blinds. As you may see in pic there is a gap on side windows where the trailer body curves.

We try them on the road soon.

Thanks for all your comments and suggestions! You guys/gals are great!

Mark
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Old 07-01-2018, 10:16 AM   #11
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Perhaps any one or more of the following will help you with your project.

I have found success in using "upholstery twisty pins" screwed into the rat fur to use as a "bottom anchor". https://www.amazon.com/Twisty-Pins-U...31635749&psc=1

I threaded a thin (DIY) bungee cord through the bottom of my curtains, attached a bungee hook at each end and attached the ends to the "twisty pins". The cord is available by the foot at most hardware stores, as are the hooks. https://www.amazon.com/T-W-Evans-Cor...02984351&psc=1 https://express.google.com/product/9...FYGIZAodGTYN3A

I have also found that "cubicle clips", attached to the rat fur can hold many things with their spring clip. https://www.amazon.com/1InTheOffice-...=cubicle+clips
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Old 07-01-2018, 04:08 PM   #12
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Gilda, GREAT idea! The twisty pins. Gotta take a break from the back yard watering system.

Mark
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Old 07-01-2018, 04:59 PM   #13
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This picture shows the problem with most curtains.

The light shining at the sides and bottom which also is where cold air in the winter comes cascading in to the sleeping area.
What is needed is a channel along the sides and bottom as a shield from the light and draft.
Any ideas for this mod?
Perhaps bend some from light aluminum and attach with Velcro.
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Old 07-01-2018, 05:06 PM   #14
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My Escape has posts with strings attached that keep the blinds in place. But, then you get people complaining that the posts poke them in the back. I just don't lean against the wall where the posts are located.
The posts are screwed into wood blocks that are attached to the wall during the build.
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