Different concept Scamp 13 closet AC Install? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-01-2016, 02:10 PM   #15
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Name: Darnelle
Trailer: 13 ft Scamp
Minnesota
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You're welcome Bill. I, too, have considered an AC install, but, for various reasons have stuck with sticking it out the rear window when needed!
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Old 04-03-2016, 04:51 PM   #16
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Trailer: 1973 13' Boler
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Originally Posted by Bill Nolen View Post
Hi Joe, that sounds very interesting!

Yes, i'd love more information and photos. Can you post the data here or provide a link to the data?

Bill
Bill, here's a couple pics. I found the unit on kijiji for $60. It's 11000btu. Works great and I think it's an easier install than a window banger. It exhausts at chest height rather than floor level. I used the floor vent covers cut into either side of the closet so it wouldn't starve for air. The outside plenums were cut to match the exhaust/intake on the back of the unit. I put an inch or two of foam insulation tape around each and pushed the unit against the inside of the wall and it makes a perfect seal for airflow. I glassed an 18in long 2x2 on the inside wall and connect my strapping to it to spread out the force on the mounting bolts when it bounces down the road. All in about $75.
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Old 04-03-2016, 05:26 PM   #17
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Name: lee
Trailer: trailswest campsterl, 1996 Scamp 16 foot
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AC

Joe Congrats ! Your's is about the best looking AC install I have seen. I bounce back and forth about AC for our trailer as we live in Idaho, are generally mountain campers, gone exploring daytime and usually cool, or maybe cold, at night for sleeping. Having said all of that if AC is in our future your install will be our template ! Thanks Lee and Norma
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Old 04-03-2016, 05:42 PM   #18
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Joe Congrats ! Your's is about the best looking AC install I have seen. I bounce back and forth about AC for our trailer as we live in Idaho, are generally mountain campers, gone exploring daytime and usually cool, or maybe cold, at night for sleeping. Having said all of that if AC is in our future your install will be our template ! Thanks Lee and Norma

Thanks Lee. I looked at the window type but I found this type lent itself to keeping the exhaust and supply separate a lot easier. I also like that it's a dual heat/cooling. I gave up some cupboard space but it was worth it. It get's very hot and humid in Ontario and this unit keeps me cool and dry. The heater can warm up the inside in about 5 min. I took it up north this winter ice fishing and while my buddies froze their butts off I was warm as toast.
Those exterior plenums have covers that screw in - you can see the threaded hole in the centre - and they seal water tight.
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Old 04-03-2016, 06:31 PM   #19
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Joe, I certainly agree...that is one great A/C installation!

The outside air openings really look good. Would you happen to have the manufacture's name and model number of the unit?

I may have to re-think what I'm going to do for a A/C!

Bill
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Old 04-03-2016, 07:49 PM   #20
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Danby DPA110DHA1CP

..if I could do it different I would make the filter on the back of the unit more accessible. I can get to it but it's a pain.
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Old 04-04-2016, 04:30 PM   #21
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Danby DPA110DHA1CP

..if I could do it different I would make the filter on the back of the unit more accessible. I can get to it but it's a pain.
Thanks Joe, I'll check it out!

Bill
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Old 04-04-2016, 05:34 PM   #22
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It looks like that Danby will adapt well to small FG RV install but does come a little dear for price. Cost is better than $400. Some parts of the country AC is pretty much mandatory. Other places AC is nice but not required. I guess which place you camp or reside in helps determine the amount of use you will get from the purchase of AC.


It does seem high but if you think about it a fantastic fan or maxx air powered roof vent runs around $150 on up to over $300. That sort of puts the AC cost of the Danby into a different perspective.
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Old 04-04-2016, 07:18 PM   #23
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It looks like that Danby will adapt well to small FG RV install but does come a little dear for price. Cost is better than $400. Some parts of the country AC is pretty much mandatory. Other places AC is nice but not required. I guess which place you camp or reside in helps determine the amount of use you will get from the purchase of AC.


It does seem high but if you think about it a fantastic fan or maxx air powered roof vent runs around $150 on up to over $300. That sort of puts the AC cost of the Danby into a different perspective.
RogerDat, you are right. Paying the full retail price would be far out of my present budget for my 13' Scamp!!

However, not so many years ago I paid almost that much to replace the auto electrical steps for my motor home! Different times...different budgets....different RV's!

Yet, a few years ago, a person could buy a fan kit that would attach to any 14" top vent for very little money. You didn't have to spend a ton of money to have a fan to exhaust hot air.

Maybe those fan kits are still available?

Bill
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Old 04-05-2016, 12:47 PM   #24
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I have seen inexpensive fans on amazon, cost less than $50 the two issues often mentioned are noise and power draw. I think a fantastic fan on high draws about 3 amp. So running it even on high for 8 hours of sleeping is only 24 amp hours. Well within the capacity of a 100 watt solar panel On low even less amp draw for the 8 hours.

In a small FGRV that vent fan is never going to be far from the bed or active living space so noise is a consideration, especially if one wanted to use it when sleeping. I think some of the cheaper models are essentially bathroom vent fans in larger RV's

The higher priced ones have one other huge advantage for our FG shells, you can call the manufacturer and they will send you an adapter that works with our roof.

The default kit may only include the installation hardware for a stick built roof that has thickness of framing. We want a "ring" that accommodates the 1/4 inch thick roof of our eggs.

With our older scamps our roof opening is smaller than the "modern" opening that vents a vent fans are designed for. I have heard of folks running a line to the 12 volt feeding the end of overhead cabinet light. Putting the on/off switch there at the cabinet. Then just setting a larger computer 12 volt fan on or in the existing vent.
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Old 04-05-2016, 07:09 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by RogerDat View Post
I have seen inexpensive fans on amazon, cost less than $50 the two issues often mentioned are noise and power draw. I think a fantastic fan on high draws about 3 amp. So running it even on high for 8 hours of sleeping is only 24 amp hours. Well within the capacity of a 100 watt solar panel On low even less amp draw for the 8 hours.

In a small FGRV that vent fan is never going to be far from the bed or active living space so noise is a consideration, especially if one wanted to use it when sleeping. I think some of the cheaper models are essentially bathroom vent fans in larger RV's

The higher priced ones have one other huge advantage for our FG shells, you can call the manufacturer and they will send you an adapter that works with our roof.

The default kit may only include the installation hardware for a stick built roof that has thickness of framing. We want a "ring" that accommodates the 1/4 inch thick roof of our eggs.

With our older scamps our roof opening is smaller than the "modern" opening that vents a vent fans are designed for. I have heard of folks running a line to the 12 volt feeding the end of overhead cabinet light. Putting the on/off switch there at the cabinet. Then just setting a larger computer 12 volt fan on or in the existing vent.
Thanks Roger for the information. I didn't know that there was a "ring" available for our thin roofs. That would make installation so much neater, and faster. I have had to build a 2 x 2 inch ring around a 14-inch square in a sailboat cabin roof, and I was not happy with the end results.

Your message reminded me that I have several new 14-inch RV vents left from the dozen or so that I bought several years ago at a RV Store sell-out. One of them is a new 12-volt powered Surflo Model 275-G1004 or something like that. I'll have to check and see if the fan motor works!

Problem is that unit weighs 12 pounds as compared to a non-power vent weigh of only 3 pounds. I'd guess that the small metal vent on my 1978
Scamp weighs less than 2 pounds.

I'm not sure adding 10 more pounds to the roof of my Scamp would be wise. What do you think?

Bill
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Old 04-06-2016, 12:02 PM   #26
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The SHURflo fan seems to work just fine. It has a variable speed motor control, and a reversible air flow control.

It's still on sale at Amazon for $140, but the few owner reviews were TERRIBLE!

I have asked for owner information on a new thread.

Bill
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Old 04-08-2016, 03:01 PM   #27
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Name: Sharon
Trailer: 1995 16 ft Scamp
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Just found this thread. We're getting ready for attempt #2 at re-installing an A/C in the closet of a 16 ft. Scamp (long story). We bought sheet metal to try to fabricate a box for the back of the A/C heat exhaust, but it's not easy to work with. Is there some sort of flexible, lightweight material that would work better than a rigid piece of sheet metal? If we have to use the rigid sheet metal, maybe it would be easier to have 4 pieces cut out and use metal tape to form them into a box? Trying to precisely bend the sheet metal isn't going well.

Also, interesting point about the heat exhaust vent being directly below the cool air intake... Would it make sense to cut a hole through the floor and install a rear-facing screened vent to allow for another fresh air entry? Just having a small space on each side of the A/C unit and the small vent above the heat exhaust vent just doesn't seem that it would allow enough cool air to come in....

Pic of our outside vent and pic of the inside of the closet:

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Old 04-08-2016, 03:57 PM   #28
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Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
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Originally Posted by artrageous View Post
Just found this thread. We're getting ready for attempt #2 at re-installing an A/C in the closet of a 16 ft. Scamp (long story). We bought sheet metal to try to fabricate a box for the back of the A/C heat exhaust, but it's not easy to work with. Is there some sort of flexible, lightweight material that would work better than a rigid piece of sheet metal? If we have to use the rigid sheet metal, maybe it would be easier to have 4 pieces cut out and use metal tape to form them into a box? Trying to precisely bend the sheet metal isn't going well.

Also, interesting point about the heat exhaust vent being directly below the cool air intake... Would it make sense to cut a hole through the floor and install a rear-facing screened vent to allow for another fresh air entry? Just having a small space on each side of the A/C unit and the small vent above the heat exhaust vent just doesn't seem that it would allow enough cool air to come in....

Pic of our outside vent and pic of the inside of the closet:
Have you thought about some light gauge aluminum or tin? Easy to work with but not sure of the price...I built a wood frame enclosure using 1x2's and some 2x4's, thin luan plywood and 1/2" sheet styrofoam insulation. Inexpensive and worked great.
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