Different concept Scamp 13 closet AC Install?

[Bill Nolen]

Since I have ordered a 5,000 BTU Frigidaire from Amazon, I've started bugging everyone that I can find about what would be a good way to install the AC in my 1978 Scamp 13.

My thanks to everyone who responded. Dan (youhauler) installation of his AC under the front seat of his trailer is a great installation, using marine deck plates for the ventilation of the AC.

The use of deck plates interests me because of the size of the plates comparied to the vents normally used with closet Ac installations.

So, I started thinking, which is always a very dangerous condition, that since Dan has had good cooling and is pleased with the amount of ventilation with the two open deck plates in his install, why wouldn't that system work with a AC installed in a closet?

Here is a rough drawing showing what I'm talking about. I'm thinking two each 4-inch deck plates for the cool air intake, and one 6 or 8 inch deck plate for the hot air discharge.



Click on drawing twice to see a larger image.

What do you think? All comments will be appreciated.

Bill

[Darnelle]

Your cool air intake is above the hot air exhaust? Then you would be pulling in warm air. Can you pull cool air in from under the trailer, thus getting the coolest air possible as well as avoid a couple holes in the side?

[Bill Nolen]

Originally Posted by Darnelle

Your cool air intake is above the hot air exhaust? Then you would be pulling in warm air. Can you pull cool air in from under the trailer, thus getting the coolest air possible as well as avoid a couple holes in the side?

Hi Darnelle, having the cool air intake above the hot air discharge is something that has bothered me from day one!

Most of the closet installs on Scamp 13's that I have viewed has the cool air intake above the hot air discharge, using large aluminum home vents, or the more expensive RV fridge vents.

People with Scamp 16's have enough room in the closet area to have a opening in the closet floor.

It may be possible to run one or two flexible air hose(s) into the side of the rear dinette seat and then into the floor under the seat.

Thanks for you comments,

Bill

[Johnny M]

Originally Posted by Darnelle

Your cool air intake is above the hot air exhaust? Then you would be pulling in warm air. Can you pull cool air in from under the trailer, thus getting the coolest air possible as well as avoid a couple holes in the side?

I agree with Darnelle, to get the most efficient cooling of your a/c unit I would pull cooler air in from a different spot. Remember hot air rises and will be also pulled back in by the vacuum created of the intake air.

I put our a/c under our son's lower bunk with the cool air intake pulling in air from underneath the trailer and pushing hot air out the driver side vent I installed. Another reason for my choice is it gets very hot and humid in the south, and the coolest spot to pull in cool air would be the shaded ground underneath.

[Johnny M]

Also, my Boler being a 13'er like your scamp presents a challenge with mounting an a/c there because of the wheel well. That is another reason I chose to put our a/c under our son's bunk, however his bunk is along the drivers side of the Boler rather than under the front window as I moved it there and got rid of the kitchenette to make a front bath with shower. You could put a vent on top of the wheel well and pull air in there and around the a/c as I seen a similar mod here where someone did that but I was worried about mud, muck, tar, etc. being thrown up against any vent here thus blocking air flow.

[Keaner]

I put a heater/AC/dehumidifier over the wheel well. It works perfectly. It sits on a wooden base I made and is attached to outside wall to a mount I glassed to the inside. I used plenums I found at Rona for exhaust/intake. I also cut a vent in either side of the closet for airflow. Drain is a hose to a hole in the floor. If you'd like more info or pics let me know.
Cheers

[Bill Nolen]

Originally Posted by Johnny M

Also, my Boler being a 13'er like your scamp presents a challenge with mounting an a/c there because of the wheel well. That is another reason I chose to put our a/c under our son's bunk, however his bunk is along the drivers side of the Boler rather than under the front window as I moved it there and got rid of the kitchenette to make a front bath with shower. You could put a vent on top of the wheel well and pull air in there and around the a/c as I seen a similar mod here where someone did that but I was worried about mud, muck, tar, etc. being thrown up against any vent here thus blocking air flow.

Thanks Johnny M for your comments. There is no doubt that pulling in hot air would be a problem with my suggested install. The mfg's of these "window type" AC have tried to keep the cool air intake as far as possible from the hot air discharge.

Yet, the cool air intakes vents are only about 12-inches from the hot discharge opening on most 5,000 BTU models.

Just for discussion only, because I do agree with both you and Darnelle, let's look at a window mounted unit actually mounted in a window of a home.

First of all if the AC unit is mounted where it is in the sun most of the time, the metal case will become very hot in Oklahoma's 100-degree summer heat. With the hot air discharge only 12-inches from the top and side cool air intake vents, I'd think that some of that heated air would be sucked into the cool air vents, from both the hot metal surfaces of the unit, and the hot discharge air.

I guess what I'm trying to say is that I believe that in normal home use there will be hot air entering the cool air intake. Whether or not it would be more or less than my suggested venting is open to question.

But, enough about that...Johnny M, did you use air fans or blowers in you AC installation? How did you prevent trash, etc. from being sucked up in your cool air intake? Do you have any photos of your AC install?

Here is a photo showing "youhauler's" simple air intake and discharge install on his trailer, with his under front seat AC install. He has placed rain shield in the marine deck plate' openings to illustrate rain protection is possible.





Bill

[Bill Nolen]

Originally Posted by Keaner

I put a heater/AC/dehumidifier over the wheel well. It works perfectly. It sits on a wooden base I made and is attached to outside wall to a mount I glassed to the inside. I used plenums I found at Rona for exhaust/intake. I also cut a vent in either side of the closet for airflow. Drain is a hose to a hole in the floor. If you'd like more info or pics let me know.
Cheers

Hi Joe, that sounds very interesting!

Yes, i'd love more information and photos. Can you post the data here or provide a link to the data?

Bill

[wbullivant]

Bill
I have also purchased a 5kbtu Frigidaire unit to install in my Promaster Van conversion. Right now I plan to mount it under one of the twin beds with 4" intake and exhaust going through the floor. I plan to have 90 elbows to direct intake and exhaust in opposite directions (with screen over the openings). You've probably noticed that there is no place to connect a condensate drain. I think that they intend for the condensate to go out with the condenser airflow after it drips from the evaporator. I plan to waterproof my intake and exhaust plenums and provide pitch for moisture to drain. The instructions say to have the unit tilting 2 to 4 degrees to the back presumably so that condensate will run in that direction. In your sketch you appear to have your unit tilted the opposite way.
Bill in NC

[Johnny M]

Originally Posted by Bill Nolen

But, enough about that...Johnny M, did you use air fans or blowers in you AC installation? How did you prevent trash, etc. from being sucked up in your cool air intake? Do you have any photos of your AC install?
Bill

Bill, no I did not use a fan for the intake or the exhaust. The vent for the exhaust is the same size as the hot air discharge area of the condenser but I did build a box around to isolate it from the cool air intake. This also allows it to pressurize to some degree assisting in expelling the hot air out the vent which helps counter any resistance of the vent obstructing the air flows path of least resistance. For the intake vent I cut an opening large enough to move enough air to supply the 3 vents on the side and top of the a/c unit so nothing is obstructed...I have taken some photos of it for you to see. I have not finished with the trim work so its not pretty yet and I still have to seal the plywood I cut with some fiberglass resin and put some hardware cloth over it to keep any critters out. It is well in front of the wheel well so I don't think i will have any issues of water splashing up in it or road tar, etc. but I did make a drain pan using 1x2's around the bottom of the ac with a drain hole in the floor and encased all the wood under the a/c with 3 thick coats of resin so any condensation wouldn't rot the floor. there was not enough room for a paint pan to go under the a/c like some use and this was easier than fabricating something else to work...it cooled great last summer at Jekyl Island, Georgia

[Darnelle]

Bill, the difference between a window AC installed in a window versus a camper closet is air flow. In a closet the flow is restricted making the AC work harder. Also my window AC install instructions indicated a shaded window is the best location so cooler air is the best option. Your plans will work, but you won't know how well until you try. It would be sad to have those additional openings in your shell only to find it doesn't work so well. Better to plan for cool air and good air flow right from the start.

[Bill Nolen]

Originally Posted by wbullivant

Bill
I have also purchased a 5kbtu Frigidaire unit to install in my Promaster Van conversion. Right now I plan to mount it under one of the twin beds with 4" intake and exhaust going through the floor. I plan to have 90 elbows to direct intake and exhaust in opposite directions (with screen over the openings). You've probably noticed that there is no place to connect a condensate drain. I think that they intend for the condensate to go out with the condenser airflow after it drips from the evaporator. I plan to waterproof my intake and exhaust plenums and provide pitch for moisture to drain. The instructions say to have the unit tilting 2 to 4 degrees to the back presumably so that condensate will run in that direction. In your sketch you appear to have your unit tilted the opposite way.
Bill in NC

Bill, thank you for the reply. i'm still waiting on delivery of my AC. Should get it today.

You are right about the drawing showing the AC tilting the wrong way! I'm a terrible artist!

Bill

[Bill Nolen]

Originally Posted by Johnny M

Bill, no I did not use a fan for the intake or the exhaust. The vent for the exhaust is the same size as the hot air discharge area of the condenser but I did build a box around to isolate it from the cool air intake. This also allows it to pressurize to some degree assisting in expelling the hot air out the vent which helps counter any resistance of the vent obstructing the air flows path of least resistance. For the intake vent I cut an opening large enough to move enough air to supply the 3 vents on the side and top of the a/c unit so nothing is obstructed...I have taken some photos of it for you to see. I have not finished with the trim work so its not pretty yet and I still have to seal the plywood I cut with some fiberglass resin and put some hardware cloth over it to keep any critters out. It is well in front of the wheel well so I don't think i will have any issues of water splashing up in it or road tar, etc. but I did make a drain pan using 1x2's around the bottom of the ac with a drain hole in the floor and encased all the wood under the a/c with 3 thick coats of resin so any condensation wouldn't rot the floor. there was not enough room for a paint pan to go under the a/c like some use and this was easier than fabricating something else to work...it cooled great last summer at Jekyl Island, Georgia

Johnny, it looks like you have done a great job of installing your AC!

The fact that you have had success using it is proof that your design and efforts worked out!

Thanks for the information and photos. Photos are just priceless and help me understand installs so much better.

Bill

[Bill Nolen]

Originally Posted by Darnelle

Bill, the difference between a window AC installed in a window versus a camper closet is air flow. In a closet the flow is restricted making the AC work harder. Also my window AC install instructions indicated a shaded window is the best location so cooler air is the best option. Your plans will work, but you won't know how well until you try. It would be sad to have those additional openings in your shell only to find it doesn't work so well. Better to plan for cool air and good air flow right from the start.

Darnelle, after reading everyone's very welcomed comments, I am going to take some more time, and look at other AC installations before I actually start cutting fiberglass.

I wondered if my "porthole type vents" might look better than the larger louvered vents I have seen, but, it was just one of many wacky thoughts that float around in my mind.

After all, more than 400 messages appear when searching "Scamp AC Install" ! There are so many interesting ways to install cooling air in our fiberglass trailer, and i have viewed only half of the messages! .


Thanks Darnelle for you comments,

Bill

[Darnelle]

You're welcome Bill. I, too, have considered an AC install, but, for various reasons have stuck with sticking it out the rear window when needed!

[Keaner]

Originally Posted by Bill Nolen

Hi Joe, that sounds very interesting!

Yes, i'd love more information and photos. Can you post the data here or provide a link to the data?

Bill

Bill, here's a couple pics. I found the unit on kijiji for $60. It's 11000btu. Works great and I think it's an easier install than a window banger. It exhausts at chest height rather than floor level. I used the floor vent covers cut into either side of the closet so it wouldn't starve for air. The outside plenums were cut to match the exhaust/intake on the back of the unit. I put an inch or two of foam insulation tape around each and pushed the unit against the inside of the wall and it makes a perfect seal for airflow. I glassed an 18in long 2x2 on the inside wall and connect my strapping to it to spread out the force on the mounting bolts when it bounces down the road. All in about $75.

[Lee Senn]

Joe Congrats ! Your's is about the best looking AC install I have seen. I bounce back and forth about AC for our trailer as we live in Idaho, are generally mountain campers, gone exploring daytime and usually cool, or maybe cold, at night for sleeping. Having said all of that if AC is in our future your install will be our template ! Thanks Lee and Norma

[Keaner]

Originally Posted by Lee Senn

Joe Congrats ! Your's is about the best looking AC install I have seen. I bounce back and forth about AC for our trailer as we live in Idaho, are generally mountain campers, gone exploring daytime and usually cool, or maybe cold, at night for sleeping. Having said all of that if AC is in our future your install will be our template ! Thanks Lee and Norma

Thanks Lee. I looked at the window type but I found this type lent itself to keeping the exhaust and supply separate a lot easier. I also like that it's a dual heat/cooling. I gave up some cupboard space but it was worth it. It get's very hot and humid in Ontario and this unit keeps me cool and dry. The heater can warm up the inside in about 5 min. I took it up north this winter ice fishing and while my buddies froze their butts off I was warm as toast.
Those exterior plenums have covers that screw in - you can see the threaded hole in the centre - and they seal water tight.

[Bill Nolen]

Joe, I certainly agree...that is one great A/C installation!

The outside air openings really look good. Would you happen to have the manufacture's name and model number of the unit?

I may have to re-think what I'm going to do for a A/C!

Bill

[Keaner]

Danby DPA110DHA1CP

..if I could do it different I would make the filter on the back of the unit more accessible. I can get to it but it's a pain.