Egg Camper half closet - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-30-2011, 01:54 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by rgrugg View Post
The plug to the micro has to be behind it. Ours came from the factory as standard equipment along with a one burner hot plate.
Mr. 2Yax said it could also be in the cabinet.

Back to the shelves.

I want shelves in the half-closet in our Scamp. Mr.2Yax is working on a self supporting design similar to my slide together plywood pantry and step stool.

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Or the one he put in over the fridge:

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(hope that worked)

That way we can remove it if we feel like we need hanging space.
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Old 04-30-2011, 04:42 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by 2yax2go View Post
Thanx, Bill....one ?.....where's the wiring? I see no visible plug.

I love the clean lines and color scheme of your Egg.
Thanks Josie - - we really like it as well! It is designed and built in Michigan by a man who designs, builds and sells experimental aircraft -and- who owned an auto repair (think fiberglass) shop for many years. He designed it to be light, durable, low center of gravity, highly efficient and to allow people (like he and I) who are 6'3" or more ;-) It is like a combination of a camper, boat and an aircraft. Easy to look at, easy to clean and moves down the road like an arrow.

Sssoooooo - - you wonder where the micro plugs in? Actually, it doesn't - we use it to store paper plates and paper towels, etc.

Gotcha - - the duplex GFI is mounted in the bottom of the top cabinet - in the back - very close to the micro - behind the light. Even in the camper is is difficult to see it. Has a place to plug in our Euro burner hot plate for those rare occasions when we decide to cook inside. Look at the center circle in the pic...

Bill
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Old 04-30-2011, 09:30 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by 2yax2go View Post
Mr. 2Yax said it could also be in the cabinet.

Back to the shelves.

I want shelves in the half-closet in our Scamp. Mr.2Yax is working on a self supporting design similar to my slide together plywood pantry and step stool.
...That way we can remove it if we feel like we need hanging space.
Sorry - - I didn't intend on hijacking the site. I know there are many FRV members interested in and have many questions regarding EggCampers.

Back to closet shelves... ;-)
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Old 04-30-2011, 09:45 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Bill Robison View Post
Sorry - - I didn't intend on hijacking the site. I know there are many FRV members interested in and have many questions regarding EggCampers. ;-)
It's easy enough to do and I was in danger of doing the same thing asking about your microwave.

Regarding that half-closet...I'd like to have Mr. 2Yax the Handyman shave some off the bottom lip of the frame to make a mite more room for access to the bottom inside the closet. We just want to make sure we don't hamper the integrity of the support to the wall itself.

Some of the storage mods will come over time as we assess what we will really need for long haul travel. I'd love to store the clothes in some sort of orderliness in the bottom closet and maybe linens in the cabinet above. We'll just have to see what works. I love looking at what others have done with theirs and appreciate the pix they share. One of the many things I really like about this site as a whole.
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Old 05-02-2011, 05:53 AM   #33
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Our favorite modification is making the table 6 1/2 inches longer. It still doesn't get in the way and we don't feel quite so cramped when we eat now. After buying our Eggcamper two years ago I suggested to Jim Palmer raising the latch on the inside closet and putting a bumper on the door where it hits the sharp corner of the awning bracket. I'm glad to hear he has raised the latch, do any of you know if he has done anything about the door hitting the awning bracket?
Ray,
Within a month of owning our EggCamper, I left the door open without latching it to hold it open and the wind took the door and dinged it against the awning bracket. I got a plastic door knob protector at home depot ( Prime-Line Products 3-1/4 in. White Wall and Door Knob Stop - U 9243 at The Home Depot ) and with some 3M 4200 stuck it to the door, right where the bracket hits. Problem solved.

I love 3M 4200 Quick Cure. But don't get the big tube unless you're going to do a lot of sticking stuff. Once you open the tube, it cures in the tube within a couple of days.

Ron
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Old 05-02-2011, 06:21 AM   #34
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Our new Egg Camper came from the factory with a "doodad" to hold the door open against the trailer body.
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Old 05-02-2011, 06:53 AM   #35
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Our new Egg Camper came from the factory with a "doodad" to hold the door open against the trailer body.
Yes, ours came with a door holder too, similar to this Rv Designer Collection - Entry Door Holder - Stainless Steel, 3 3/4 Inch - Entry Door Hardware - Camping World but white plastic. The problem happened when I didn't fasten the holder and the wind just slammed the door back into the awning bracket.

What does your doodad look like?

Ron
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Old 05-02-2011, 07:28 AM   #36
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I have no intentions of hijacking this thread, BUT, since there are 2-3 Egger's here I have a question that pertains only to Egg Campers. Where does the a/c condensate drain into or from? I see no tubes underneath. Again, sorry for changing the subject, but wanted to ask this question, Thanks.
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Old 05-02-2011, 07:45 AM   #37
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Jim Palmer told me that the ac drains to the outside but, if the trailer is unlevel with the curbside lower, the condensate may drain on the floor.
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Old 05-02-2011, 08:04 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
I have no intentions of hijacking this thread, BUT, since there are 2-3 Egger's here I have a question that pertains only to Egg Campers. Where does the a/c condensate drain into or from? I see no tubes underneath. Again, sorry for changing the subject, but wanted to ask this question, Thanks.
Since there are several EggCampers on board I will give a quick answer to AC drain question...

Like all of you, I'm a bit crazy or I wouldn't have an RV. When I first got my Egg I knew we were going to use it for 3 season camping - so I began sealing potential cold air leaks to the cabin. I removed the AC exterior grid and found lots of very large openings allowing outside air into the cabin - around the rear of the the AC unit. Here comes the Gorilla Duct Tape - I taped top, sides and bottom edge of the rear of the AC behind the ext grill. [time] ...camping in the summer AC work well, but after a while I noticed condensate water from under the AC coming into the cabin on the floor - hhmmm. [time] ...this winter I was at the EggCamper shop and asked Jim where the AC drain was located (I too thought there would be a drain tube). He showed me a new Egg in the shop with the ext grill removed - the AC unit sits on a piece of molded fiberglass, which has a flat bottom, raised edges (1 1/2") and designed to slope to the exterior. Apparently, condensate drips from the bottom of the AC unit onto the tray - runs toward the ext grill and sits there to evaporate with exit air?? I plan to keep mine sealed with tape until summer - then revamp the 'drain' set-up in some fashion?

I don't like the idea of circulating exterior air back into the AC so it has to work harder nor the idea of water 'sloshing' in the 'tray' when you hit the road. We need to begin a new topic for EggCampers to discuss possible mods to address this before summer. I would like to do more than drill drain holes in the bottom edge of the grill to allow water to trickle down the outside of the Egg... Sorry I don't have pix yet - and that the post is so long-winded.

Thanks for the question - it was a good one, Jim.

Bill
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Old 05-02-2011, 11:05 AM   #39
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I'm going to start a new thread= let's continue there...
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:30 AM   #40
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Wire shelving for closet

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Originally Posted by Bill Robison View Post
This is what I did for the larger closet - same concept will work for the smaller closet. Simple, quick and light - - all the things I aim for in mods ;-)
Bill, where did you buy the wire shelving and plastic end tips? How much weight will the shelves support. (I put canned goods in my closet so want to ensure if I replace the wood with metal, they won't buckle.
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Old 09-24-2012, 11:23 AM   #41
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B & C -

We love Ontario - we are neighbors from Michigan ;-)
'Bill, where did you buy the wire shelving and plastic end tips? How much weight will the shelves support. (I put canned goods in my closet so want to ensure if I replace the wood with metal, they won't buckle.'

All good questions about my shelves...

I bought the wire shelves at Menards - similar to Lowes & Home Depot. The wire shelf is about twice as heavy material as a standard closet unit - so they will hold a lot of weight. I think I used 30" x 24" ? and could easily support 100# - 150# each, if you provide the strong 'hangers'. You should be able to put canned goods in baskets similar to what we used to keep the cans from rattling and gives you easier access to your food. Also, if canned goods are in baskets any chance of 'buckling' shelves is nearly zero, since the weight is distributed over a wide area on each shelf. These wire shelves are designed for garage use so they are very strong - nearly 3/16" diameter as compared to 1/8" for std white closet shelving.

For the plastic tips - you can get different sizes in packages displayed near the white metal closet shelves. Concerning the supports - my experience would say to use a 12mm or 1/2" multi-ply wood strip - very strong, won't split, can paint, quieter, paintable and easier to cut and fasten to. My weakest 'support leg' was red oak 'doorstop' - about 1.5" x 3/8" and it would have been marginal to support a lot of canned goods. Since the shelves were round, I secured them with Delron (or nylon) horseshoe type fasteners that allowed two screws at each support point - much lighter than wooden shelf supports.

Bill
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Old 09-24-2012, 11:48 AM   #42
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Wire shelves 3/16" from Menards (designed for garage)

Thank you Bill. I copied your entire response and made it into a jpg to pass along to my DH. I am working on the principle that if I add weight I need to reduce weight (or in computer terms "garbage in/garbage out).

As I sift through all the wonderful renovations and modifications I found your shelves to be the ones I would most like to have. If I don't get them before we go away, we'll hopefully either bring the drill and a small saw or make it a winter storage project.
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