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03-31-2014, 09:24 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Name: Denny
Trailer: Lil Snoozy
Michigan
Posts: 552
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Night Sailor
I am not sure if the blanket works on a timed duty cycle or reduced power at lower settings. It will be interesting to find out.
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Most hearing element gizmos like this turn off and on to achieve medium and low power. A 1500w hot plate I was fooling around would turn on for perhaps one second then be off for three or four seconds on "low".
You can watch the current display on the battery meter to see if the blanket works this way. I bet it does.
Is the caution not to use with inverter because it's so easy to wake up in the morning with a dead battery? Even a plain old square wave inverter should run a resistance heater just fine.
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03-31-2014, 09:40 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Night Sailor
[COLOR=Blue] I have a down comforter that I would use when it gets really cold, still, I'd like to at least warm things up before climbing in.
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Hot water bottle will do that for you! Or make the dogs go to bed first.
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03-31-2014, 09:42 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Night Sailor
Memory foam is to hot for me too.
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I have heard people say that but I have never noticed it even when in very hot weather. I put a mattress cover over mine though which may be why I don't notice it.
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03-31-2014, 10:44 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Name: Conrad
Trailer: Bigfoot 3000 & Barth "slide-in" truck camper
Connecticut
Posts: 958
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D.
Conrad, consider a hotwater bottle to pre-warm your bed. It's cozy down by the feet!
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My feet are toasty. The vendor said that these should not be used if you have cold feet, diabetes, etc. I have cold feet and need the warmth.
I am using it right now on the high setting on shore power as my current battery could not handle the last many days of overcast. I broke down and plugged in. Both dogs are right up against me, on my side. Preferring heat to soft pillows. I dare not move as I am the pillow. In any event, I love the heat. I hope crawling on the blanket doesn't ruin it.
Nevertheless, a hot water bottle is a fine idea.
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03-31-2014, 10:44 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Name: Gilda
Trailer: 2011 Scamp 13'
California
Posts: 1,445
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As far as insulation below your mattress you might want to consider using 1/2" thick closed cell foam mats that are used for backpacking. Here's one from Amazon Amazon.com: Stansport Pack-Lite Pad (72X19X3/8-Inch, Blue): Sports & Outdoors. I have commonly found these without straps in sporting supply stores.
__________________
The Gleeful Glamper
Gilda (Jill-da)
"Here we go again on another amazing adventure"
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03-31-2014, 10:52 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Name: Carl
Trailer: 2013 Lil Snoozy #161 (SOLD)/2010 Tacoma
NE Oklahoma
Posts: 2,358
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04-01-2014, 07:06 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Name: Deborah
Trailer: Prius camping - want an Oliver
Virginia
Posts: 351
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Actually, this radiant floor might be better (I know Roy was kidding). I'm thinking about putting it under the floor in my Snoozy. Cheap enough to give it a try.
InfraFloor - Radiant Floor Heating Systems
__________________
I don't get lost, I go on interesting side trips.
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04-01-2014, 07:07 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
Name: Ron
Trailer: Trillium 13 ft (green grape)
Ontario
Posts: 442
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The joys of camping! Trying to make it more like home all the time ??
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04-01-2014, 07:36 AM
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#30
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 5,185
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A FYI post
After thinking about it I don't think the control on your blanket is a thermostat but rather an SCR or triac based control similar to a light dimmer only with preset levels. Like pulse width modulation with DC, these devices vary the duty cycle of the AC wave. As such they work best with a pure sine wave. While the blanket will work with a square wave, the controller will not. Raz
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04-01-2014, 09:53 AM
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#31
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Member
Name: Leslie
Trailer: Alto R1723
North Carolina
Posts: 91
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I can't comment on amps used etc., but I find a heating pad does a nice job of warming up a chilly bed. Newer models also turn themselves off after a half hour or so.
Leslie
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04-01-2014, 10:03 AM
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#32
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Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: 2018, 21ft escape— 2019 Ram 1500 Laramie
NW Wisconsin
Posts: 4,500
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The expense of adding 400 watts of solar and an additional battery plus the additional weight added to the trailer , seems a high price to pay for being able to run an electric blanket .
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04-01-2014, 10:33 AM
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#33
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 5,185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve dunham
The expense of adding 400 watts of solar and an additional battery plus the additional weight added to the trailer , seems a high price to pay for being able to run an electric blanket .
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Hi Steve. I've seen folks run microwaves, coffee pots, refrigerators, and one fellow, a room air conditioner, off batteries. I've seen stuff over wired, over designed, large solar arrays, expensive monitoring systems of questionable accuracy, expensive charging systems of questionable value, and batteries you need a fork lift to move. The way I look at it, there is a lot of learning going on, it puts money into the economy, and they're having fun. Besides, if you ever want any of this stuff it will show up on ebay, cheap, sooner or later. Each to his own , Raz
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04-01-2014, 10:44 AM
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#34
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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My plan is to put on the order of 700 to 900 watts of solar on the roof. This should be enough to run a small air conditioner, 12/120 volt compressor fridge and the LED lights.
The way I see it, there are four levels of solar power.
1. LED Lights, and your cell phone - ~40W
2. Fridge - ~100W
3. Air conditioner - ~700W
4. Propulsion, (at a brisk walking pace) - ~2000 to 4000W
I got wheel chair motors, and controls from my brothers company for $50. The bigger ones are $80. They get wheel chairs that are not worth repairing, and strip off the electrical components.
I plan to use them to get the trailer into the camping spot. In theory they could propel the trailer 40 to 50 km a day.
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04-01-2014, 11:28 AM
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#35
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Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: 2018, 21ft escape— 2019 Ram 1500 Laramie
NW Wisconsin
Posts: 4,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P. Raz
Hi Steve. I've seen folks run microwaves, coffee pots, refrigerators, and one fellow, a room air conditioner, off batteries. I've seen stuff over wired, over designed, large solar arrays, expensive monitoring systems of questionable accuracy, expensive charging systems of questionable value, and batteries you need a fork lift to move. The way I look at it, there is a lot of learning going on, it puts money into the economy, and they're having fun. Besides, if you ever want any of this stuff it will show up on ebay, cheap, sooner or later. Each to his own , Raz
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You have a valid point . When I taught electrical control and design , I tried to teach my students not to under or over design a project . Making electrical systems overly complicated usually leads to more problems than it solves. It is a balancing act between function and cost and in the real world cost usually wins out!!
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04-01-2014, 11:44 AM
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#36
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 5,185
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Think of it as tuition. In fact, cheaper. The text for the first year course in DC and AC I taught must be over $200 by now. Raz
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04-01-2014, 12:46 PM
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#37
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Moderator
Trailer: 2009 19 ft Escape / 2009 Honda Pilot
Posts: 6,230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston
My plan is to put on the order of 700 to 900 watts of solar on the roof. This should be enough to run a small air conditioner, 12/120 volt compressor fridge and the LED lights.
The way I see it, there are four levels of solar power.
1. LED Lights, and your cell phone - ~40W
2. Fridge - ~100W
3. Air conditioner - ~700W
4. Propulsion, (at a brisk walking pace) - ~2000 to 4000W
I got wheel chair motors, and controls from my brothers company for $50. The bigger ones are $80. They get wheel chairs that are not worth repairing, and strip off the electrical components.
I plan to use them to get the trailer into the camping spot. In theory they could propel the trailer 40 to 50 km a day.
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Have you looked into a Mack or a Freightliner to tow all this stuff for you. I really think then a solar powered hot tub should be considered.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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04-01-2014, 02:02 PM
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#38
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett
Have you looked into a Mack or a Freightliner to tow all this stuff for you. I really think then a solar powered hot tub should be considered.
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I think you misunderstand. The idea is to require no tug, just a lot of patience .
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04-01-2014, 02:14 PM
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#39
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Moderator
Trailer: 2009 19 ft Escape / 2009 Honda Pilot
Posts: 6,230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston
I think you misunderstand. The idea is to require no tug, just a lot of patience .
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LOL!
*pictures Dave towing his solar array down the highway with an electric chair*
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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04-01-2014, 02:46 PM
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#40
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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One more try.
The trailer would have the motors and steer like a wheel chair, (or tank) by spinning one wheel faster than the other. The tongue jack would have a large castor wheel. The back becomes the front.
Use the generator when power runs low.
For winter, substitute something like Mattracks https://www.mattracks.com/ , and a ski on the tongue.
It would get you to some difficult to reach camp sites, slowly. I am thinking across a frozen lake, or a road that is closed in the winter.
Since it would go at a quick walking pace, auto pilot is an option.
Art vehicle for Burning Man.
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