Enhancing small kitchen work surfaces - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-26-2016, 04:23 PM   #1
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Enhancing small kitchen work surfaces

Many others have posted variations on both these mods, so nothing new here. In the interest however of adding more to the collective database, I'll post these two.

Although we prefer cooking and eating out of the scamp, sometimes when the weather or travel schedule dictate, we're cooking and eating inside. Kitchen work surface in a 13 footer is a challenge. Here are two solutions I've worked on to fill the winter months.

The cutting board cover for the sink that came with our scamp looks wonderful but we find it to be too unstable to use for cutting or safely putting a pot on. I modified a larger standard cutting board by gluing strips cut from an old cutting board on the bottom. It makes a tight fit with the sink and works well for cutting or as a surface for parking a pot.

The second project was a folding shelf off the stove end of the "kitchen" - it extends over the front couch. I cut down a piece of melamine shelf from Home Depot and used these folding shelf brackets Amazon.com: RV Designer H505 Folding Shelf Bracket, (Pack of 2): Automotive

Here a few pics of both.
Attached Thumbnails
board top.JPG   board bottom.JPG  

shelf down.JPG   shelf up.JPG  

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Old 03-26-2016, 04:46 PM   #2
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David, the modifications are very nice!

Thanks for the link for the folding-shelf hardware. I've been wondering where I could locate such hardware!

Bill
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Old 03-26-2016, 05:59 PM   #3
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David, the modifications are very nice!

Thanks for the link for the folding-shelf hardware. I've been wondering where I could locate such hardware!

Bill
Bill,
These did work for me but the quality control leaves more than a bit to be desired. They come in pairs and one of mine was close to square, but the second one off by enough degrees from 90 to be a problem. I had to do a bit of buggering with it to get it squared up.
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Old 03-26-2016, 06:35 PM   #4
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Bill,
These did work for me but the quality control leaves more than a bit to be desired. They come in pairs and one of mine was close to square, but the second one off by enough degrees from 90 to be a problem. I had to do a bit of buggering with it to get it squared up.
Thanks David for the additional information on the quality of the hardware!

Since I'm not in a hurry...I'll look around a bit more.

Thanks again,

Bill
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Old 03-26-2016, 07:09 PM   #5
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Bill.....these brackets are also available online thru Lee Valley Tools. They sell an amazing assortment of hardware. And they stand behind their quality.
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Old 03-26-2016, 08:18 PM   #6
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Thank you for sharing these mods Dave. Very nicely done! I just searched my phone but don't have a pic of mine. I used left over cedar plywood from my closet shelves and made a little top for the silverware drawer when it's slid out. I can set things there or use little cutting boards if I need to work.

For Scamps cutting board over the sink, I put little bumpers on the underside to stabilize it. My stovetop cover is a baking sheet. Cheap and cheerful!

Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByFiberglass RV1459041499.588439.jpg
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Size:	29.8 KB
ID:	93726Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByFiberglass RV1459041535.544076.jpg
Views:	50
Size:	43.6 KB
ID:	93727


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Old 03-26-2016, 09:47 PM   #7
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Bill.....these brackets are also available online thru Lee Valley Tools. They sell an amazing assortment of hardware. And they stand behind their quality.
Thanks Theresa, I'll check their site out.

Bill
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Old 03-26-2016, 10:57 PM   #8
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I'm totally new to making a simple modification which requires drilling. How do you attach the bracket to the fiberglass for the side folding counter? Do you remove the drawer in order to access the screw and put a lock nut on the end? How do you drill the fiberglass accurately and without cracking it?
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Old 03-27-2016, 02:40 AM   #9
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I'm totally new to making a simple modification which requires drilling. How do you attach the bracket to the fiberglass for the side folding counter? Do you remove the drawer in order to access the screw and put a lock nut on the end? How do you drill the fiberglass accurately and without cracking it?
Drilling through FG won't crack it. You may want to use masking tape to mark the center of the hole as that will help to keep the drill bit from "traveling". You may well have to remove something to get at the back side for any washers and nuts. Sometimes I have to have someone else give me a hand for those long reaches.......I don't bend the way I used to, dang <_<.
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Old 03-27-2016, 08:14 AM   #10
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I'm totally new to making a simple modification which requires drilling. How do you attach the bracket to the fiberglass for the side folding counter? Do you remove the drawer in order to access the screw and put a lock nut on the end? How do you drill the fiberglass accurately and without cracking it?
Gilda, I drilled the fiberglass for the screws (you could use small bolts if you prefer), starting with a small pilot hole and worked up the the final diameter for the screws. I removed the silverware drawer to gain access to the inside of the fiberglass panel where I placed a short piece of 1x2 pine to take the screws (use a smaller diameter bit to drill your holes in the wood if you are using screws) to and provide a larger bearing surface. On my scamp five of the six screws for the two brackets worked this way. The bottom screw on the back bracket however comes through the fiberglass in the exterior refrigerator vent compartment (I needed a second pair of hands for this one). Take your time. It's not too difficult.
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Old 03-27-2016, 08:16 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gilda View Post
I'm totally new to making a simple modification which requires drilling. How do you attach the bracket to the fiberglass for the side folding counter? Do you remove the drawer in order to access the screw and put a lock nut on the end? How do you drill the fiberglass accurately and without cracking it?
Gilda, it appears that David had a drawer under the stove, so I'd think he did remove the drawer to reach the back side of the screws to attach lock nuts.

It would also be possible to use sheet-metal screws to hold the brackets to the fiberglass. Not the best way to attach items to fiberglass, but IMHO better than removing the stove to reach the back side of screws or bolts!

Sometimes when drilling holes in fiberglass, it helps if you start the hole with a smaller drill bit, then go to a larger drill bit. Dave's suggestion about using masking tape is very good. It's also much easier to mark the needed hole location on tape instead of smooth fiberglass.

Bill
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Old 03-27-2016, 09:06 AM   #12
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Great Idea Wendy

Quote:
Originally Posted by CampyTime View Post
Thank you for sharing these mods Dave. Very nicely done! I just searched my phone but don't have a pic of mine. I used left over cedar plywood from my closet shelves and made a little top for the silverware drawer when it's slid out. I can set things there or use little cutting boards if I need to work.

For Scamps cutting board over the sink, I put little bumpers on the underside to stabilize it. My stovetop cover is a baking sheet. Cheap and cheerful!

Attachment 93726Attachment 93727


Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV
WENDY...

Where did you get the bumpers for the cutting board? Did you drill all of the way through?
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Old 03-27-2016, 10:28 AM   #13
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Gilda, it appears that David had a drawer under the stove, so I'd think he did remove the drawer to reach the back side of the screws to attach lock nuts.

Bill
correct - no need to remove the stove if you have the drawer.
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Old 03-28-2016, 10:03 PM   #14
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Thanks for the tips, everyone! :-)
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