Escape 17 furnace model number? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV



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Old 12-11-2018, 11:38 AM   #15
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Suburban NT-16SQ (ducted)

Found another furnace, the Suburban NT-16SQ ducted furnace that wouldn't have the NT-16SEQ problem of being too short to reach the exhaust tube. It has no vented front cover, but instead a left and a right duct port, and both must be used to achieve the required airflow. Thoughts??
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Old 12-11-2018, 12:15 PM   #16
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Found another furnace, the Suburban NT-16SQ ducted furnace that wouldn't have the NT-16SEQ problem of being too short to reach the exhaust tube. It has no vented front cover, but instead a left and a right duct port, and both must be used to achieve the required airflow. Thoughts??
You might listen to one. Much louder than the Dometic AFSAD12. I don't kn ow if the input end of the Dometic works in your situation, but the front can be extended and a directional grill added.
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Old 12-11-2018, 12:43 PM   #17
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Dometic AFSAD12 with the directional grill added (as shown in Escape 17 pic at Escape vendor website) would probably work. Jon, what do you mean about the input end?
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Old 12-11-2018, 12:45 PM   #18
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Dometic AFSAD12 with the directional grill added (as shown in Escape 17 pic at Escape vendor website) would probably work. Jon, what do you mean about the input end?
The connections from the back of the furnace to the outside (intake & exhaust) I don't believe it is a good idea to extend them.
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Old 12-11-2018, 01:28 PM   #19
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nt16sq furnace

John,you have to remove your fridge & shelf to access furnace compartment because you will need to construct platform for furnace to sit on, I believe you will not have sufficient space to install ducting(converter & wheel well in way)you also need to install ball valve shut off switch & have access to it,nt16 also has on/off switch which needs to be accessed through same access panel. I would suggest you remove above and see what space is available before purchasing unit. I also agree as Jon stated to not alter intake/exhaust max. distances,adding A bit to the front is not hazardous (in my opinion).
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Old 12-11-2018, 02:09 PM   #20
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Interesting discussion folks. Thanks for the additional info. I'm replacing the converter with a much smaller unit (PD4135), so that should help. I've already removed the old converter.
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Old 12-12-2018, 11:24 AM   #21
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Larry, I found it easy to remove, and have removed everything except the fridge. I will probably need to remove the fridge at some point in order to straighten and reinforce the sagging cabinet. Have you removed your Boler 17 fridge? If so, please tell me how you did it. Always easier if someone else has already done it and can describe how they did it. Thanks.
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