Escape Trailer Sewer Hose Holder - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-10-2006, 08:50 PM   #1
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Name: Thane
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Because of the space available on the back bumper of a typical Escape trailer, an off-the-shelf sewer hose holder will not fit. Reace and the boys install a custom built PVC tube, but the inner diameter was too small for my sewer hose end fittings. Using a tip from another link, I installed a replacement hose holder fabricated from 5 inch square fence post.

I bought a damaged section of fence post and two end caps from a fencing store for $8, they were happy to find a buyer for the broken post. I cut the fence post couple inches longer than the original sewer hose holder to get a little more storage space.

The fence post had rectangular cutouts for the mating fence rail, so I cut a small rectangular piece from the scrap and covered the cutout that would otherwise be on top of the horizontally mounted hose holder. I glued the cover in place with PVC pipe cement. The lower cut out was left open for ventilation.

I moved the spare tire back an inch or so and inserted a shim between the spare tire rack and hose holder to protect both from chaffing. The square fence post rests on a cross frame and is bolted to the frame on the right hand end and the front left hand corner. It sits real nice on the frame and the spare tire rack adds support. The mounting allowed a 1/4 inch of clearance or so between the fiberglass trailer body and the hose holder. When I removed the standard hose holder I noted chaffing to the fiberglass, just cosmetic but I prefer no contact. I added a bungee cord loop and handle to the cover to make it easier to remove and use a 6 inch screw and stainless steel wing nut to hold the cover on. I trimmed the handle off the battery box to get an extra inch or so of space.

The following two pictures show the new sewer hose holder installed.


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I mounted the original hose holder under the frame, near the dump valves. I use it to store a helical, pre-coiled garden hose. I cut the tube in half so I could reach the far end and bolted that end piece to a cross beam. I added one screw to the top of the open end of the tube and attached it to the longitudinal frame. I used a slip fit coupling to reassemble the two tube pieces and used three hose clamps to attach the tube to the frame. I didn't glue the two tube pieces together, that's why it has a slight bow in the middle.


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Old 06-05-2013, 11:39 PM   #2
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I am looking to do something similar with my Scamp. Can you show more detail on how you engineered the end caps?
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Old 06-06-2013, 08:30 AM   #3
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Nice work Thane.
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Old 06-06-2013, 08:43 AM   #4
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I have not seen Thane around for a while, maybe you could email or PM him. His post was from 7 years ago.

I changed out my sewer tube like Thane's as well. What I did was but a stock tube holder, and build aluminum plates that adapted it to the frame.

I made four of these. The double holes got screwed to the metal frame of the trailer from below, and the single holes went matched to the holes on the holder.



The finished product.

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Old 06-06-2013, 08:46 AM   #5
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Thane had Last Activity: 04-28-2013 06:39 AM Hopefully he'll pop back in and answer your question Mike. If not, there are other workable solutions such as Jim provided.
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Old 06-06-2013, 08:51 AM   #6
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Yeah, maybe he gets notifications and will respond.
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Old 06-06-2013, 09:00 AM   #7
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I missed that date on the post, going to get some coffee!!
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Old 06-06-2013, 09:48 AM   #8
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You have to be a member of the CasitaForum to see this info, but I like this solution. Uses hinges to hold the end caps on, no rubber to deteriorate and nothing to lose: Plastic Fence Post Sewer Hose Holder - Caps
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Old 06-06-2013, 10:13 AM   #9
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I also added a square fence post to my Escape so I could fit a heavier hose & 90° elbow. I hope this photo shows enough of the end caps, but I'll explain them anyway - All fasteners are stainless. I put an eyebolt in the center of the cap, and a couple of flat head machine screws, threaded end out bolted to the sides of the post. I used a locking nut to hold one side of a short bungee cord and used the cord to hold the end cap in place. Has held up over the last 16K miles...
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Old 06-06-2013, 11:25 AM   #10
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I think the square post has a more custom look to it.
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Old 06-06-2013, 10:06 PM   #11
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Escape significantly improved the mounting for the sewer tube by the time I bought mine. They now use a welded plate on the frame with a bolt hole, and to that they through-bolted the sewer tube. They were still using the PVC tube, however, which I didn't like. I bought a standard tube from Camping World, and also through-bolted it. However, since it's much thinner material than the PVC tube, I added a 6" hose clamp around the tube and between the end of the bolt and the frame. I used a longer bolt than necessary to accomplish that. Into the tube goes a new Rhinoflex sewer hose with a 90 degree elbow. Still had to shave down the hose tabs just a bit, but it's a better hose, better fittings(all four tabs connect), and can be accessed from either end. The mounting plates on the tube itself go unused.
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Old 06-06-2013, 10:20 PM   #12
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Although functional, I just don't think square (looks like an add-on that does not belong) or black tubes (why black!!??) match the color or lines of the Escape...In my opinion, Bob's has the best "Trailer-match".
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Old 06-10-2013, 08:02 PM   #13
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Name: Thane
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Howdy, great ideas on the tubes.
I am still alive, just been busy. My sister paid me $600 to take away a 1977 Silver Streak motorhome. They only made 40 and I've been working on it every extra moment. It ain't fiberglass but it's fun.
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Old 06-10-2013, 08:04 PM   #14
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Hi Thane, welcome back... we missed you!
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