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Old 06-25-2008, 10:15 PM   #21
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I guess that I should have looked a little deeper in the box! Thanks, Peter.
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Old 07-06-2008, 09:19 AM   #22
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Thanks Peter,

Your post saved me a lot of time looking for LED's. I ordered and received (5) of the 48 M-SMT and (3) G4 under cabinet RV lights.

My 2 cents worth:

Under Cabinet G4 lights: The original 3 ancient cabinet lights in my Bigfoot ran hot to the touch, and just a bit too bright. I really like the G4 LED lights at 1/10 the power consumption, no heat and a better quality of light. I’m sure I will use those lights all the time now.

V-LED’s Warm White 48: Another great light. However, they are not as bright as the original incandescent light. So, I replace 4 of my 7 interior lights with LEDs and kept the other 3 incandescent for when I need more reading light. I installed the 5th light I ordered in the porch light. With a yellow cover on my outside light it was hard to tell the difference between the original incandescent light and the 48 LED panel.

Thanks again, Dean
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Old 03-28-2009, 03:52 PM   #23
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Name: Parker
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Just installed the 48 LED panels in my trailer. I used strips of glass tape just a bit wider than the back of the LED board and framed that with glass tape just covering all four front edges of the board and sticking to the tape overlapping the back and used that to tape the board into the fixture. The wires, as you can see fold over the front of the board and plug into the bulb converter socket that came with the LED panel.
I thought I'd post a photo of my installation with the same lights. There is not much edge to catch with the tape, so I cut a piece of aluminum flashing material (2X5 inches) and mounted the LED board to it with soft copper wire between the rows of LEDs. I also put a couple of layers of duct tape on the aluminum for cushioning. The flashing is inserted between the plastic frame and the metal reflector in the light. It seems to work great. I only ordered one of these just to try it out. I agree with another poster that the LEDs are not quite as bright as the bulb, but still it's easy enough to read fine print under them, so I'm going to convert the other interior light and the porch light to these panels.

I appreciate Peter being the pioneer in this LED conversion process! They're only going to get better as time goes on.

Parker
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Old 03-29-2009, 04:13 PM   #24
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I thought I'd post a photo of my installation with the same lights.
Parker
It is always interesting to see the various methods of attaching these LED arrays. I like your method Parker. One could also use wire ties to strap it to the aluminum mount.

I used silicon on the back of the LED panel and "glued" it to the metal light fixture. So far it's holding just fine, makes a clean installation and the cured silicon does not pose a circuit problem. It is a fast and easy method of attaching this LED arrays.

Dean
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Old 03-30-2009, 08:43 AM   #25
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It is always interesting to see the various methods of attaching these LED arrays. I like your method Parker. One could also use wire ties to strap it to the aluminum mount.

I used silicon on the back of the LED panel and "glued" it to the metal light fixture. So far it's holding just fine, makes a clean installation and the cured silicon does not pose a circuit problem. It is a fast and easy method of attaching this LED arrays.

Dean
How is the color output in Kelvin? How does the amount of light compare to you old bulbs? I think an incandescent is about 2700 Kelvin and these are 3500.

Were the old bulbs 12W or 25W?

Thanks, Mike
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Old 08-20-2009, 09:57 AM   #26
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Quote:
Your wish is my command (sort of):

I have two schematics, each use a "7812" voltage regulator ($1.60 or so at Radio Shack):


Attachment 13873
This circuit limits the voltage to the LEDs to 12v or less (about 1/2v lower than the battery charge). Its one disadvantage is, if you wire your battery backwards, the voltage regulator will burn out.


Attachment 13874
This circuit adds a switching diode into the circuit that prevents the voltage regulator from burning out. Its downside is the diode drops the voltage even further.

--Peter
Thanks Peter!
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