Fantastic Fan Install

[Otters]

Thanks Dylan for the heads up about the FF spacer. I've wrecked my brain trying to think of a solution for a good material fo the external spacer. Still thinking. Yours looks great, but I'm glad to know upfront that it had challenges. Whatever I use I'm thinking I may just save myself some time and cover it with the roofing tape in the first pass. Everyone's sharing is priceless. I really appreciate it.

[multi-task]

I think this was mentioned already, but FF makes a high profile and low profile fan. The high profile fan sits higher on the roof. If you are in Canada, Trillium in Calgary stocks these versions and they are also factory trimmed. When I installed mine in my Trillium Outback it fit perfect, it's flush with my roof and the insulation.

It was also a clamp on version, so in theory you don't need screws, however the guys at Trillium told me they still use rivets or screws with that model and the clamp just supplies the added security that it won't come loose. I drilled holes in my fan to match the holes from my old vent, sealed with dicor, worked out great.

[glamourpets]

Originally Posted by multi-task

I think this was mentioned already, but FF makes a high profile and low profile fan. The high profile fan sits higher on the roof. If you are in Canada, Trillium in Calgary stocks these versions and they are also factory trimmed. When I installed mine in my Trillium Outback it fit perfect, it's flush with my roof and the insulation.

Do you know how these two units differ specifically? If its just a different side panel that sits higher, perhaps I could just buy the part and upgrade my own fan? I am guessing that the only difference is the position of the lip that sits against the fiberglass roof?

Sadly, its not going to be economical to return this one. I bought it not knowing there was options. Now the cost to ship it back is too high.

I'm guessing that the best option will be a combination of things. If I make 4 x 1/4" changes for example, the fit will be near perfect.

Derek

[Otters]

Originally Posted by dylanear

The polyethylene sheet is durable and semiflexible. But I would not use it again I don't think. That Star Board sounds interesting. I just didn't want to use wood and risk water soaking in, rotting. But the polyethylene just rejects any adhesive, doesn't like most sealants. My set up is working great, but I'd do it differently if I had to do it again. At least I'd research other things. The milled poly sheets idea would probably work better with large rubberish gaskets rather than the butyl and caulk based sealing I used.

Dylan, to be clear, is the polyethlene material the same as that used in these cutting boards. Cutting Board 18" x 24" x 1/2" Poly White
I was thinking of cutting one of these down for the external spacer but it sounds like it may be the same material yours was made of. It seems like if you covered the top and bottom of the spacer entirely in butyl tape & firmly held the whole thing by the nut & bolt fasteners (tape, spacer, tape, fan) the rain couldn't penetrate, even if it didn't actually "stick" to the poly. Did it just squeeze so much tape out (because of the non-sticking issues) that it created butyl tape gaps in spots?

[dylanear]

Originally Posted by glamourpets

Do you know how these two units differ specifically? If its just a different side panel that sits higher, perhaps I could just buy the part and upgrade my own fan? I am guessing that the only difference is the position of the lip that sits against the fiberglass roof?

Sadly, its not going to be economical to return this one. I bought it not knowing there was options. Now the cost to ship it back is too high.

I'm guessing that the best option will be a combination of things. If I make 4 x 1/4" changes for example, the fit will be near perfect.

Derek

That's what I was getting at. The low profile one is standard, the high profile sticks up more, I think about 1/2 or 3/4 inch perhaps? Never saw them side by side and dealt with this a long time ago now.

But if you need to make a riser anyway, the difference is not that important. Consider just getting the one that's cheaper and easier to obtain.

[dylanear]

Originally Posted by Otters

Dylan, to be clear, is the polyethlene material the same as that used in these cutting boards. Cutting Board 18" x 24" x 1/2" Poly White
I was thinking of cutting one of these down for the external spacer but it sounds like it may be the same material yours was made of. It seems like if you covered the top and bottom of the spacer entirely in butyl tape & firmly held the whole thing by the nut & bolt fasteners (tape, spacer, tape, fan) the rain couldn't penetrate, even if it didn't actually "stick" to the poly. Did it just squeeze so much tape out (because of the non-sticking issues) that it created butyl tape gaps in spots?

Yep, probably similar material.

I think my leak was from too little sealant and yes, I think too much squeezed out when I assembled. Mine was further complecated in that I wanted more lift than I could get from one piece, so I used two and that added a gap to deal with. I'd avoid using butyl if I had to do it again. I really liked the Sikaflex caulks I used in various places (belly band!) and that stuff just would not stick to the poly. The more I think of it, the more I'd avoid that stuff (polyethylene)!

[deryk]

Could try teak. Can usually find it on ebay if your not near a marina. Teak should be oiled and its the least likely to rot or just dry out since so little of it is exposed. I think the starboard though is your best bet. Ive used it in marine environments its relatively uv stable and calk will adhere to it.

deryk

[deryk]

Another option, whyo dont you just sand down the gelcoat and build up the area with fiberglass cloth and 2 part epoxy, can make it whatever size you need, then just sand it smooth and paint it after you mount your fan?

deryk

[multi-task]

Here's a picture from a supplier that shows the difference between the high and low profile vents.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by Otters

Dylan, to be clear, is the polyethlene material the same as that used in these cutting boards. Cutting Board 18" x 24" x 1/2" Poly White

The spacer they sent me was not at all like the poly in shown in the cutting board. It was more like a closed cell foam - very flexible. I didnt use it.

[Thomas G.]

Originally Posted by deryk

Another option, whyo dont you just sand down the gelcoat and build up the area with fiberglass cloth and 2 part epoxy, can make it whatever size you need, then just sand it smooth and paint it after you mount your fan?

deryk

I thought about this, too. You could use 1x2 boards as a mold and just cast it in place using the resin with the chopped up fiber to add strength.

[deryk]

Probably Tom, but without doing a real good job the chance of it cracking and letting in moisture bothers me. Ive done a good amount of fiberglassing but I still think the easiest way would be starboard spacers to get it to the desired thickness. Not always the easiest answer. Now if you live near a marina, you could get an estimate from their fiberglass person to do it. Wont be cheap but it would be a real professional job and be done right(hopefully lol).

deryk

[David Tilston]

Originally Posted by Thomas G.

I thought about this, too. You could use 1x2 boards as a mold and just cast it in place using the resin with the chopped up fiber to add strength.

This is similar to my plan, but the mold would be removed. To elaborate on the plan for my 1300 trailers. Cut a square hole that is 16", or so on a side. grind down the edges of the cut so the added fibreglass has some surface to bond to. Then construct a box out of wax covered cardboard that fits this hole and protrudes by about 3/4". When covered by resin soaked fibreglass mat it will form a box shape. When hardened, use a wire brush on a drill to remove most of the cardboard. After that cut the 14" hole, for the vent, in resulting box structure. Then sand the outside smooth. This will provide a recessed mount for the fan, so the knob does not protrude. Then the trim piece, that comes with the fan, can be used to cover the edges of the cut in the Ensolite. This basically increases the thickness of the fibreglass, with out adding weight, or leak paths.
The only disadvantage of this plan is I will have to paint the added fibreglass on the outside. Since I am planning to paint both of the 1300's this is not really an issue.

[Otters]

Originally Posted by deryk

Could try teak. Can usually find it on ebay if your not near a marina. Teak should be oiled and its the least likely to rot or just dry out since so little of it is exposed. I think the starboard though is your best bet. Ive used it in marine environments its relatively uv stable and calk will adhere to it.

deryk

The starboard looks like a good way to go. About $50 for a 3/4" spacer which would do the trick. Interstate Plastics has it and another similar product called "marine board". They are both Polyethylene. I'll take your word for it tht calk adheres. I'll probably put an order in. Is it easy to fabricate? I'll get the exact outter dimensions, but I'll need to cut out the center opening to make the picture frame type spacer (Unless they'll cut both for me with an internet order).

[deryk]

I know it cuts pretty easy with a jigsaw and is sandable. Check the manuf webpage for more information...Im sure they might be able to make some recomendations.

deryk

[glamourpets]

I have been reading up on that king starboard recomended by Deryk earlier. It looks like good stuff to work with but I wonder if it would have similar sealing/gluing problems as the gaskets that Dylan had prefabbed. I'm guessing two layers will be required, again like Dylan's version. The manufacturer recommends a couple adhesives, but I'm not familiar with them nor do I know if they are fiberglass friendly.

http://www.piedmontplastics.com/medi...65af66bd01.pdf

Derek

[stevebaz]

My current plan is to get 1-3/4" square fiberglass tube from Mc Master carr.8548K43Structural Fiberglass Square Tube, 1-3/4" X 1-3/4", 1/8" Wall Thickness, 5' Length2
eachtoday
15.43
each30.86 Cut 4 pieces like a picture frame and epoxy the pieces to make a square box. sand to roughen surface and then use Buytl tape and pop rivet the box to the shell from below and use buytl tape and pop rivit the fan to the box from above. The fan I have has the taller flange so I need the taller mount. this will recess the inside controls. The buytl tape between the frame and the shell will have to be thicker at the outside of the frame from the curve in the roof so it may need like 3 layers on the outside edges and 1 layer in the middle. At least where the fan is mounted it will be flat and square so it will not stress the plastic and crack when it gets old. The exposed fiberglass will need to be painted since it has no gel coat but thats no big deal since its not wood the painted surface will last a very long time. I would not use HDPE board as nothing sticks to it. If you must use it, roughten up with 36 grit sand paper to at least get tooth to it for added friction.

[Otters]

Originally Posted by stevebaz

My current plan is to get 1-3/4" square fiberglass tube from Mc Master carr.8548K43Structural Fiberglass Square Tube, 1-3/4" X 1-3/4", 1/8" Wall Thickness, 5' Length2
eachtoday
15.43
each30.86

Thanks for that resource Steve. I had no idea you could purchase prefabricated fiberglass like this.

[glamourpets]

Originally Posted by stevebaz

My current plan is to get 1-3/4" square fiberglass tube from Mc Master carr.8548K43Structural Fiberglass Square Tube, 1-3/4" X 1-3/4", 1/8" Wall Thickness, 5' Length2
eachtoday
15.43
each30.86 Cut 4 pieces like a picture frame and epoxy the pieces to make a square box. sand to roughen surface and then use Buytl tape and pop rivet the box to the shell from below and use buytl tape and pop rivit the fan to the box from above. The fan I have has the taller flange so I need the taller mount. this will recess the inside controls. The buytl tape between the frame and the shell will have to be thicker at the outside of the frame from the curve in the roof so it may need like 3 layers on the outside edges and 1 layer in the middle. At least where the fan is mounted it will be flat and square so it will not stress the plastic and crack when it gets old. The exposed fiberglass will need to be painted since it has no gel coat but thats no big deal since its not wood the painted surface will last a very long time. I would not use HDPE board as nothing sticks to it. If you must use it, roughten up with 36 grit sand paper to at least get tooth to it for added friction.

These fiberglass tubes are the cleanest iNstalation idea I have seen yet. I really like this option. I would really prefer to buy these tubes in Canada only because the shipping from the US is likely to be expensive. Any thoughts on a Canadian source for this product? I have not yet found anything online. Thoughts?


I called Fantastic Fan today. Sadly, they weren't much help. They do have what she called an "interior garnish" which I think is what people are talkinf about here. Sadly the garnish is only intended to cover the screw points from the inside. Its nothing more then that. I asked about a lower profile know, but she didn't have anything to offer there either. She did say that the vent could be converted into a "clamp style fan" but I couldn't follow what she meant. She didn't give enough clues to figure it out on an internet search either. What was she refering to here. Is this option useful to us?

Derek

[stevebaz]

Graingers in Canada carries 1-1/2" square.
Fiberglass Square Tube Stock - Fiberglass - Grainger Industrial Supply

In the US they dont sell direct to the public but have to go to a buisness. I don't know in Canada.

Yesterday morning I ordered my tube online with Mc Master Carr and it was delivered to my work at 3:30 same day. I cut and bonded the tube last night.
Clean-up today and paint it. I took pictures and will post them as I get time. So now I have to get the guts to make the actual cut in the roof.
I still have to get the 10 ohm resister to make the speed mod before I install anything.