Fantastic Fan Install - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-29-2013, 08:21 AM   #1
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Fantastic Fan Install

Fantastic Fan Install in a Boler Trailer - YouTube

I recently purchased a fantastic fan for instalation in a Boler. The plan was to enlarge the existing vent hole and pop it into place. What I did not consider was that your fantastic fan is designed to fit into a stick built trailer. A stick built roof is much thicker. The question now becomes - how to fix this. The most obvious solution is to make a plywood spacer (as demonstrated in Kevin Henry's youtube video).

1. Kevin Henry cuts a plywood spacer, glues it on with apoxy, then uses bondo body filler as a contouring agent. Will the bondo hold up under these conditions? I have some 3M 2 part bodyfiller. Will this work too? The fiberglass has some natural flexng properties to it. Will this be a problem?

2. Are there any simple yet effective alternate ways of doing this installation? I could use fiberglass fabric and epoxy, but I'm concerned I'll make a mess. The above method certainly is easier.

Thoughts?

Derek
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Old 01-29-2013, 12:54 PM   #2
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I installed a Fantastic fan in my Trillium 4500. It already had a 14" vent, so I did not need to enlarge the hole. I cut the inside bezel down so that it only had a 1/4" ridge. It is held in place by the corners, where I drilled holes and used longer stainless steel bolts and acorn nuts, so I don't hurt my head.
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Old 01-29-2013, 01:09 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
I installed a Fantastic fan in my Trillium 4500. It already had a 14" vent, so I did not need to enlarge the hole. I cut the inside bezel down so that it only had a 1/4" ridge. It is held in place by the corners, where I drilled holes and used longer stainless steel bolts and acorn nuts, so I don't hurt my head.
I have already cut my hole. If I just put the fan into the hole it hangs down at least an inch if not more. When you say "inside bezel" are you trimming the fan side itself? Or just the trim piece that goes inside the trailer? How are you overcoming the fact that the trailer is 1/4" thick and the fan is 2+" thick?

Derek
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Old 01-29-2013, 02:02 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by glamourpets View Post
I have already cut my hole. If I just put the fan into the hole it hangs down at least an inch if not more. When you say "inside bezel" are you trimming the fan side itself? Or just the trim piece that goes inside the trailer? How are you overcoming the fact that the trailer is 1/4" thick and the fan is 2+" thick?

Derek
Here are a couple of pictures of trailers on which the same was done.
I used pine on one and the plastic spindles from deck railing for the other...
I like the plastic best and it will take stain for touch-up(not shown)...
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May 2009 011.jpg   1978 Scamp 13 004.jpg  

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Old 01-29-2013, 02:15 PM   #5
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The 14" vent hole on my trailer sticks up about a 1/2", so that helps. To do that in your situation would require adding a fibreglass box structure around the 14" hole that you cut. I plan to do this on the two Trillium 1300 trailers I have. I will use wax coated cardboard to make the "mold" and then glass over it. Afterwards I will scrape out the cardboard.
The trim piece is what I cut down. I left about a 1/4" of the edge, so it would fit into the grove in the fan. This left me with about a 1/2 space between the fan and the trim piece. I used the foam gasket that came with the fan to fill the excess gap, You could trim down the outside of the gap, in the fan, that the trim fits in, to reduce the space further. This would still leave the knob that opens the vent hanging down. This is why I plan to make a box structure in the fibreglass. That way I don't bang my head as much.
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Old 01-29-2013, 02:46 PM   #6
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I guess you are going to have to fill that space on one side or the other somehow. Either the spacer goes outside (like in the video) or inside, like the photos above.

The knob that opens the vent is the most likely place where one is to bong their head. Has anyone come up with a replacement knob that sits more flush with the vent itself?
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Old 01-29-2013, 03:00 PM   #7
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The issue with fitting the interior trim or bezel is not a big one as it will snap on a score line BUT protrusion of something (either the vent cover knob or the wood or deckwood or whathaveyou shim ring) on the inside can't be solved without building up a pad on the exterior. If you've got the ceiling height to allow you to do the shim job on the inside without bumping your head on either shim or knob, I believe I'd go with that method as building up the outer surface involves two interfaces that have to be sealed/bedded (pad to skin, fan to pad).

Latter day Burro DID get this right by molding the pad into the skin of the trailer. 1998: anno mirabili!!

jack
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Old 01-29-2013, 05:07 PM   #8
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I have had to do this a few times and it really does not have to be not a big project.
I just used whatever 2x2 hardwood stock I had laying around the shop and make the spacer for the inside as thin as I could after trimming the plastic on the fan.

There are enough screw holes in the frame of the fan that I have never needed anything more than the spacer ring to make it work and the ceiling leveled just fine.

The ring will obviously protrude into the ceiling space but you can buy a lower profile knob from Fantastic Fan if you need one.

They also sell a version of the fan with a thickness more along the lines of what the FBRV really needs but if you already have a fan then I guess that will be too late?
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Old 01-29-2013, 05:17 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rabbit View Post
Latter day Burro DID get this right by molding the pad into the skin of the trailer. 1998: anno mirabili!!
Any Trillium with a 14" vent also has this molded into the fibreglass. Even the 9" vent holes protrude some, but since no one makes a 9" fan, it is not very useful.
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Old 01-29-2013, 05:23 PM   #10
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I spent too much money getting these spacers custom fabbed and they leaked the first way I installed them, but seems to be water tight since I added a layer of super tuff and sticky roofing tape.

New Fantastic Fan going in...

But the added head room is fantastic! I highly recommend some type of riser.

There is also a two versions of the Fantastic Fan. One is rare and meant for thinner roofed RVs, but is still pretty thick for our super thin roofs. If you don't special order it, 99.999% of the time you will get the standard roof version I'm pretty sure. I think the difference is about 3/4".
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Old 01-29-2013, 05:56 PM   #11
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I just trimmed mine with the same trim that was one the escape hatch. Fans over the bed/table area so the small amount it comes down from the roof is not a big deal.
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Old 01-29-2013, 06:03 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Carol H View Post
I just trimmed mine with the same trim that was one the escape hatch. Fans over the bed/table area so the small amount it comes down from the roof is not a big deal.
Reminds me, I need to stain my trim! Yours looks great!

My fan is right in the middle of my limited living space, by the stove and entrance. So the riser makes a big difference.
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Old 01-29-2013, 08:08 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by dylanear View Post
Reminds me, I need to stain my trim! Yours looks great!

My fan is right in the middle of my limited living space, by the stove and entrance. So the riser makes a big difference.
Yes, thats about where mine will be. If you wash dishes at the sink, you will hit it if it sits too low. I'm just putting my new vent where the old one was. I like the over the dining table position, but it doesn't make a lot of sense to have two vents in a 13' trailer.

Dylan, can you tell me more about your spacers? They look like they are cut from a sheet of 1" thick nylon.

I didn't see anything mentioned about the thinner version of the fantastic fan on the website. Curious. I do see the fantastic fan listed on the scamp website. What is the official scamp solution to this problem?

Derek
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Old 01-29-2013, 08:53 PM   #14
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I think I was talking to the FF folks and they mentioned it, I ordered from them directly as I recall.

Polyetheline sheet I believe. But not sure that's ideal, sealants don't like sticking to it!

I took the FF in to a plastics shop in Albuquerque and they made a template from that for their milling machine. I had them cut two for extra height.

Not sure I'd do it that way again. So take inspiration if you want, but keep an open mind for solutions. For the couple hundred bucks I spent I might have been able to have something made in aluminum!
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