Filling in huge vent hole? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 11-14-2005, 06:02 PM   #15
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Name: Myron
Trailer: 19' Escape
Posts: 668
The exterior paint-matching problem is a big one for me. I know without a full paint job no way this patch will come out invisible.

Hey, here's an idea that just came to me: What if I follow through with Fudgie's directions but on the outside I build up a phony frame relief, say 3/16" thick, that looks like its door trim. Then I just paint the new fiberglass "door" and if it's a different shade of white it won't matter. A template would shape the doors' edge.

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Old 11-15-2005, 10:56 AM   #16
fudgie s.
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attaching an inner piece of wood is a great idea for two reasons, it is hard to get the epoxy to fill in on such a vertical surface without falling out, (don't know if you could somehow jack the trailer to create a downhill to the hole area), i don't know alot about the construction of these trailers, (though i am shopping for one and learning alot), but it seems to me they are so flimsy that drilling holes in them is a bad idea. the backing plate will create a 'hard spot' in the hull and i am also a bit inclined to think that given the thinness of the walls, (and what seems to me to be a brittleness), you might want to keep the flex of the unit...i also had mistakenly thought you were planning to paint the whole trailer anyway. the great thing about this epoxy with filler is that it is like playing with clay and as i can not measure..(i have to use pieces of string for some reason), and i know nothing about woodwork, you can mold it however you like. as far as strength goes, if the epoxy kicks nicely in place, you could hit it with one of those door busters the cops use and it would not give.
ps: i am a lady! i singlehand my little boat with my best friend lola, another middleaged girl, my chihuhuahua.
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Old 11-15-2005, 05:06 PM   #17
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Trailer: 19' Escape
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Just came in from spending the afternoon covering the lower vent opening with 1/16" plywood base. Made it lap over on inside, nearly 2 inches.

Prep wood with a dry-fit and drill holes all round that will take sheet metal screws to make a fit tight to the wall. Then slathered much Bondo gel all round the inside where wood will lap wall. Moving fast, now, I put the wood back in place, braced from behind so wouldn't move, then ran around to the outside to screw it all in tight. When resin hardened I removed the screws. It worked! Oh, yes, Fudgie s., this will be strong patch.

Then added 2 layers of fiber cloth into more Bondo. Tomorrow will add more layers to build up exterior the new wall.

(Tell Lola I think this Burro can go to sea.)
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Old 11-30-2005, 06:03 PM   #18
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UPDATE: Today's weather got back to the 60's so I removed the kitchen fan previous owner had installed behind the fridge. There goes another 30+ pounds of ugliness. Same routine applied: screwed in 1/16th ply set in fiberglass filler - remove screws when set. Will build up the outside wall as a circle this time.
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Old 12-04-2005, 10:26 PM   #19
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Name: Con
Trailer: 1977 Boler 1300/2003 17' Bigfoot
British Columbia
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Hi, Just a thought, a trick I have used and seen other people use is to sandwich a piece corrugated cardboard that fits the opening and then do about 3 layups of choped strand fiberglass matte on each side. You will have to Bondo, sand, prime and paint the outside no matter how you procede. When you get cardboard soaked down with resin you would be amazed how strong it is. Helicopter blades are made with a fiber type beehive honeycomb core in side and the covered with a plastic layer, I can't remember what type though.
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Old 12-05-2005, 06:22 AM   #20
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Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
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Looking like you're moving right along Myron

FYI: The ONE thing that trashes moisture. I'm certain we've all seen bondo that's falling out of a repair on motor matter how well the surface is prepared. It's typically caused by moisture coming in from the backside. My point, is make certain the repair is completely sealed from the inside of the trailer. None of us like to think about water, etc. coming into the inside, but you never know. Unsealed wood can absorb moisture like a sponge. Sure would hate to see all this hard work look bad after a year or two.

Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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Old 12-05-2005, 06:50 AM   #21
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There is a product that is widely used out here on the West coast on boats and surfboard repair, made by Evercoat, called Formula 27. It is water resistant and fiberglass bonds to it super. The material is great to work with. I have been using it. It is an alternative to Bondo. After it goes off, when you scrape if off the cement floor it pulls the cement off!

This info says it's white, but it's gray if used without a coloring agent. Since I will be painting my egg, I skip the color at this point. Evercoat makes many resin and gelcoat products.

Formula 27 All-Purpose Filler is perfect for permanent repairs of fiberglass, wood, metal, cement, stucco, and drywall. It is the finest quality, extra-white plastic filler for filling dents, scrapes, and gouges. A true "miracle mender", it won't crack, pop out, or shrink after curing. A long time favorite of boaters everywhere, Formula 27 can be mixed with Evercoat Color Agents for color matching. White cream hardener included. 1/2 pint

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